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Ski-Doo Muffler PT-2, [DETAILED] 850 turbo can, non-turbo can, trail can, quiet can, mountain can 800, 600 etc

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4K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  skidont  
#1 ·
A two part series on my experiences with snowmobile mufflers. When the "who's got the best can" posts start to fly and whether they are real or instigation by an agent provocateur, you can kill the post by linking this one. he he he. :ROFLMAO: (y)
PT-1 "summary" video, short n sweet about 7 minutes.

This is PT-2 DETAILED, where i go into the theory and my own "bad, but-good" learning experience on why my engine could only run 6800 rpms in Cooke city at 7500~9500 feet. I changed out to 2 cans.
Borrowed stock = 8000. :D
Aftermarket can I owned & ran = 6800 :mad:
Certain aftermarket = 8000. :D
Aftermarket can I owned & ran = 6800..what is happening? :mad: :unsure:

SKI-DOO MUFFLERS. This PT-2 video is DETAILED, why, how, what may happen when a Ski-Doo exhaust is modified, [MUFFLER/CAN] it may change the power peak rpms of your engine. ADJUST THE PLAYBACK SPEED; You can speed up the video using youtube settings [little sprocket/gear icon], playback settings 1.25, go.

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#6 · (Edited)
None in my emails. The hate I get is on FB about my clutch kits, really. If one wants a daily dose of hate, you just have to go on FB in some category of Ski-Doo chat for 10 minutes and see it.

If you go on enough times, you'll see the pattern of a handful of proxy warriors who live on FB, fighting, advocates for their master, saying theirs is the best. Some of the hate is from NPC's, robots banging the gong supporting the latest so-called trend. hahaha.

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#4 ·
This brightened up my day. Not just the info, but the 'mooing cow' theme LOL

I wrote a long reply to the last thread but did not post. This video discussion did touch on one thing that seems to bear emphasizing: The user ought to start with the application as the first matter to answer. Is the use for screaming across a lake for many miles, is it high altitude mountain sledding, or corner to corer on trails? These different apps call for different parts.

It is the same as picking cams and pistons, gearing, intake and exhaust, etc. for 4 stroke auto engines. A drag race combination is going to be very different than for a rally car.
 
#5 · (Edited)
The spirit [intent] of my post is to simply show that a muffler can change the power peak rpm of an engine. IF an engine has a rated power peak of an example 8000 rpms at X pipe pressure, THEN having a different pipe pressure, can make the power peak rpms go lower, example - 7800 or lower, or, 8100 or higher.
That's it.

Those videos took me a long time to do because I wrote a script with this intent - I framed it in a manner that didn't leave an opening to ask a question which causes a person to abandon or substitute [pipe pressure / power peak rpm] with a complete other issue.

I dint talk about a muffler affecting reverse function or backfiring or probes or any other issue to be introduced. None of those answer an issue of pipe pressure at full throttle. May as well ask, what's better, "grease or oil bath" muffler bearings? :ROFLMAO:

Surplusage is; something having no relevancy to the issue involved, redundant, adding irrelevant matter.
I just talked about pipe pressure at full throttle and its affect on power peak rpms. I wanted to show the idea behind a particular law of gas flow and pressure via a muffler, that information to have an effect on the viewer.
 
#8 ·
Yeah - love the input from DJ (and some other really informed people on this site).

I find it interesting (and I do fall into the same 'trap' at times) that so many want to bolt on some secret sauce part to beat their buddy when a little bit of research can yield pretty good results with either stock or aftermarket options.

There are many threads where the OP is asking about "what's the best clutch kit for my sled" and I have asked what they are looking for in particular - typically no responses.

Ah well - good fodder for the offseason...
 
#11 ·
And while him and I do not get along, DJ remains in my opinion one of the most thoughtful person that I know with regards to clutching with a focus on Engine Management. I remember one time coming across an old thread on an old Rev something forum and seeing him single-handedly battle using his experience with track dynos along with real world track results. I don't remember the details, but his focus was on the helix angles and spring. What I do remember in detail is he had big balls. I got on his bad side once and maybe twice, and not ever on purpose, yet I am still paying for it a decade later. Regardless, I stand my ground and continue to say that he's a guy to pay attention to.
 
#9 ·
Bolt is in the Stinger and not the Muffler Outlet Pipe

I applaud your endeavor. But it requires one MAJOR correction @ ~15-16m. The bolt has been in the stinger. It is similar to shrinking the ID of the stinger with a reducer. Refer to any 2S pipe manufacturer for details. Again, awesome info on the subject. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences!
 
#12 ·
This just emphasizes on 2 strokes it’s best to go with a company that has a pipe and silencer combo if you want the most out of these sleds and a nice sound. They dyno them together and have hundreds of hours of testing on dynos and on snowmobiles on the trails and mountains. Don’t just buy a cheap can for sound. Nice videos, lots of good info 👍🏻. Love my ypipe/pipe/silencer combo from ****. With the matched clutch kit the difference was night and day.