Good job .This will help a lot of people with that project. Thanks for you efforts. Maybe a sticky at the top of forum so others can find it easy to access. Think we need Moderator to help with this if enough interest.

 

Nice work, great explanation and pics.

 

Like the idea with the skis. Steel skis in extra large plastic ski skins?

 

Thanks, I hope someone finds it useful.

RV, yes, I think they are 8" ski skins on the steel skis, I made my own runners with extra long bolts to hold them in place. I wrote about it in another thread, let me see if I can find it...
Ok, Not able to find it, due to that photbucket scandal I can't post the photos here anyway. You should be able to see it though if you go to this page:
http://s819.photobucket.com/user/john170950/media/Sled/20141020_214014_zpsffjm5zro.jpg.html?sort=3&o=85

 

Great timing, I'm doing this tonight.

Side note...seems skidoo had the anti corrosion thing down pretty good. Amazed when I pull some of these old machines apart. Why is is that all of the vehicles on the road seem to rust out so quick?? All you in the north will understand.

 

So I just did that for a Olympic, not quite the same as an Elan, the Elan is much easier. Olympic is a pain the the ass, you have to unbolt and shift transfer case to get the shaft out. I'll update the first post.

 

Great post. Thanks for taking the time to document this challenge. Very useful.

Elan Dude from Ottawa.

 

reviving this thread as i'm currently strugling with the rear axle of a '72 Elan 250. my original axle was worn down on one side by a bad bearing so can't reuse it since the diameter is below 25mm. got a used rear axle that needs new sprockets and bearings, but cannot for the life of me get the "cover plates" off, they're rusted badly to the axle.

any tips/tricks to getting these off? heat and brute force?

 

Not too much brute force or you'll deform the plates. Buddy of mine put an axle in his wood stove to burn out the sprocket and the heat probably helped loosen the plates.

 

The last one I did had seized up flanges.

I cut all the remains of the cog off and then drove the flange on as far as it would go.

I sanded the shaft and started working with WD-40 and was able to save them.

If you end up destroying the mobile flanges I believe Kimpex still sells them.

 

thanks for the reply guys. i have 2 spare flanges that came off easily (go figure) from my bad axle, so I don't need to worry about not damaging the ones I'm trying to remove. I may need to borrow an angle grinder and hack these ones off, without damaging the axle of course.

I'll keep at it and post some pics later

EDIT, here's a link to a few progress pics, hopefully it's viewable ....

 

UPDATE: got both flanges off the axle! it wasn't easy, they were rusted on there REAL good. pics of the carnage below.

big thank you to OP for the excellent how to post and your replies.

edit: I can't seem to embed images in this post, so here's a pic link

 

There is probably a video somewhere showing this but I felt like creating something so here is an FYI for those that have not done this before. I just went thought this for the fist time and here are some procedures and strategies I used. Coolest part is it can all be done with easy to use and easy to find hand tools. No hydraulic shop press required.

Useful tools and parts

-Bearings all the same, 6205 sealed on one side. Princess Auto has them cheap, you can get quality ones at your local bearing shop, from 8 to 20 $ CAN. Skidoo dealers should have them too. If they come sealed both sides, just pry one seal off. Make sure you do not get 6205-1 bearings, they are for a 1" shaft, the skidoos have a 25mm shaft.


-OEM rear axle seals part 570 0301 00.
-Front seals 581 1017 00
-Bearing splitter / puller kit.
-1" Inside Diameter pipe, Shaft Coupler or hydraulic cylinder Cross Tube


-Small awl or pick
-Small thin flat head screwdriver
-Butter knife with approx 1/4" of the tip bent about 90 deg.
-Mallet or heavy hammer
-Blocks of wood
-Cargo straps
-Milk crates or large blocks of wood
-Several tubes of cold weather grease, depending on how enthusiastic you are with the grease gun
-80W Gear oil.
-Lots of shop cloths / paper towels.

Some tricks I used

Remove all bogies and the rear axle, disassemble the rear axle to inspect the bearings and the grease seals, and see how the seals are removed (Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides). The front is the same but uses oil seals.

This rear bearing was rusted solid and the entire bearing was spinning in the cup.


While you have the bogies out, take the opportunity to grease the crap out of them, push out the cross shafts and grease them.

Lay the sled on the right side, PTO side up, and support it with blocks or milk crates and straps. On a table or bench would be ideal, at least it should be off the floor so you can access the bearing cup on the Magneto side. The more immobile it is the better. I had mine this way for several days as I worked around it. Support the track as well and push forward and up off the drive cogs. Make enough room to stand or sit inside it so you have good access to the front axle.


Remove the chain case caps and remove the tension on the chain in the chain case by removing the tensioner paddle. If there are two tensioners (Olympic) unbolt the top one and slide it up next to the top sprocket (easier than pulling it out). I did this so the lower sprocket did not move and I was able to remove and reinstall the splined drive shaft into the sprocket with little effort. Having the sled stable ensured the lower sprocket did not move.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to move the chain case around, so the sprocket will be moving out of position. Removing the top tensioner does help. To reassemble you will have to wiggle and move the driveshaft and the sprocket to get them to synch up.

Olympic top tensioner moved:


For the front driveshaft.

Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides. If they are good and you are not replaceing them be careful, they can be removed without damaging them.

Remove the three bolts holding the magneto side bearing cup.

Remove the cotter pin on the driveshaft in the chain case.

The drive shaft can now be pulled down by hand / or tapped with a mallet from the top to push the bearing out of the chain case housing. Keep an eye out for the spacer washer on the drive shaft that goes between the sprocket and the bearing, it should be on the shaft.

Once loose you can tip it to one side and remove it.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to unbolt the chain case and move it out of the tunnel so that the drive shaft can clear the opening.
With the sled on the magneto side the weight of the secondary clutch should tip the chain case and pivot it out of the hole in the tunnel. You can leave the drive belt on, just have to remove the long bolt that adjusts the secondary position, the 2 nuts at the middle and one nut at the bottom.

Bearing removal

-With the front or rear shaft in a vise, put the bearing remover behind the bearing, slightly loose so it does not score the shaft as it is pulled off.
-Use a socket or other spacer slightly smaller diameter than the shaft to press on the shaft.
-Tighten the bolt to pull the bearing off.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft, use a spacer to protect the shaft.













Installing a bearing

-Remember to put the seal on first, in the correct orientation.
-With the shaft in a vise, hold the bearing in position by hand, it might go on the shaft a small amount.
-Put a block of wood on it and hammer it on.
-Make sure the bearing is perpendicular to the shaft when you start.
-After it starts it will straighten itself the correct way. Hammer it down till it will not go further / flush with the end of the shaft.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft use the 1" ID shaft coupler / cross tube to go over the spilnes and hammer the bearing into place.





Cross tube on PTO side of an Olympic front shaft:


Drive shaft reistallation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the seals are pressed firmly into the cup so that they are uniformly pushed in from the cup edge a bit. You should feel them pop into place.

PTO side.




Mag side.




Once you have the front axle sealed and bolted in on both sides, put the sled upright, put some oil in the chain case to verify no leaks.

Don't forget to grease the rear axle.

No more pools of oil, nice.

What kind of oil goes in the chain case?

 

I use 80W Gear oil.

 

There is probably a video somewhere showing this but I felt like creating something so here is an FYI for those that have not done this before. I just went thought this for the fist time and here are some procedures and strategies I used. Coolest part is it can all be done with easy to use and easy to find hand tools. No hydraulic shop press required.

Useful tools and parts

-Bearings all the same, 6205 sealed on one side. Princess Auto has them cheap, you can get quality ones at your local bearing shop, from 8 to 20 $ CAN. Skidoo dealers should have them too. If they come sealed both sides, just pry one seal off. Make sure you do not get 6205-1 bearings, they are for a 1" shaft, the skidoos have a 25mm shaft.


-OEM rear axle seals part 570 0301 00.
-Front seals 581 1017 00
-Bearing splitter / puller kit.
-1" Inside Diameter pipe, Shaft Coupler or hydraulic cylinder Cross Tube


-Small awl or pick
-Small thin flat head screwdriver
-Butter knife with approx 1/4" of the tip bent about 90 deg.
-Mallet or heavy hammer
-Blocks of wood
-Cargo straps
-Milk crates or large blocks of wood
-Several tubes of cold weather grease, depending on how enthusiastic you are with the grease gun
-80W Gear oil.
-Lots of shop cloths / paper towels.

Some tricks I used

Remove all bogies and the rear axle, disassemble the rear axle to inspect the bearings and the grease seals, and see how the seals are removed (Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides). The front is the same but uses oil seals.

This rear bearing was rusted solid and the entire bearing was spinning in the cup.


While you have the bogies out, take the opportunity to grease the crap out of them, push out the cross shafts and grease them.

Lay the sled on the right side, PTO side up, and support it with blocks or milk crates and straps. On a table or bench would be ideal, at least it should be off the floor so you can access the bearing cup on the Magneto side. The more immobile it is the better. I had mine this way for several days as I worked around it. Support the track as well and push forward and up off the drive cogs. Make enough room to stand or sit inside it so you have good access to the front axle.


Remove the chain case caps and remove the tension on the chain in the chain case by removing the tensioner paddle. If there are two tensioners (Olympic) unbolt the top one and slide it up next to the top sprocket (easier than pulling it out). I did this so the lower sprocket did not move and I was able to remove and reinstall the splined drive shaft into the sprocket with little effort. Having the sled stable ensured the lower sprocket did not move.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to move the chain case around, so the sprocket will be moving out of position. Removing the top tensioner does help. To reassemble you will have to wiggle and move the driveshaft and the sprocket to get them to synch up.

Olympic top tensioner moved:


For the front driveshaft.

Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides. If they are good and you are not replaceing them be careful, they can be removed without damaging them.

Remove the three bolts holding the magneto side bearing cup.

Remove the cotter pin on the driveshaft in the chain case.

The drive shaft can now be pulled down by hand / or tapped with a mallet from the top to push the bearing out of the chain case housing. Keep an eye out for the spacer washer on the drive shaft that goes between the sprocket and the bearing, it should be on the shaft.

Once loose you can tip it to one side and remove it.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to unbolt the chain case and move it out of the tunnel so that the drive shaft can clear the opening.
With the sled on the magneto side the weight of the secondary clutch should tip the chain case and pivot it out of the hole in the tunnel. You can leave the drive belt on, just have to remove the long bolt that adjusts the secondary position, the 2 nuts at the middle and one nut at the bottom.

Bearing removal

-With the front or rear shaft in a vise, put the bearing remover behind the bearing, slightly loose so it does not score the shaft as it is pulled off.
-Use a socket or other spacer slightly smaller diameter than the shaft to press on the shaft.
-Tighten the bolt to pull the bearing off.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft, use a spacer to protect the shaft.













Installing a bearing

-Remember to put the seal on first, in the correct orientation.
-With the shaft in a vise, hold the bearing in position by hand, it might go on the shaft a small amount.
-Put a block of wood on it and hammer it on.
-Make sure the bearing is perpendicular to the shaft when you start.
-After it starts it will straighten itself the correct way. Hammer it down till it will not go further / flush with the end of the shaft.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft use the 1" ID shaft coupler / cross tube to go over the spilnes and hammer the bearing into place.





Cross tube on PTO side of an Olympic front shaft:


Drive shaft reistallation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the seals are pressed firmly into the cup so that they are uniformly pushed in from the cup edge a bit. You should feel them pop into place.

PTO side.




Mag side.




Once you have the front axle sealed and bolted in on both sides, put the sled upright, put some oil in the chain case to verify no leaks.

Don't forget to grease the rear axle.

No more pools of oil, nice.

I’m having a heck of a time getting the drive axle reinstalled. I can not get the PTO side to go in and match up with the chain case. Is there something I’m missing?

 

Is the track pushing on the cogs and making it difficult to line up the shaft?
When I was putting the axle back in I had the track push as far as I could forward and up into the tunnel;, away from the shaft, so that it did not touch the cogs.

 

I got it finally. Now I will try it with the track on. I used my left hand index finger to poke through the lower gear on the drive chain, then I matched it up with the hole on the end of the drive shaft (spline end). All the while my right hand is pushing the drive shaft in place. I hope that helps anyone else.

 

There is probably a video somewhere showing this but I felt like creating something so here is an FYI for those that have not done this before. I just went thought this for the fist time and here are some procedures and strategies I used. Coolest part is it can all be done with easy to use and easy to find hand tools. No hydraulic shop press required.

Useful tools and parts

-Bearings all the same, 6205 sealed on one side. Princess Auto has them cheap, you can get quality ones at your local bearing shop, from 8 to 20 $ CAN. Skidoo dealers should have them too. If they come sealed both sides, just pry one seal off. Make sure you do not get 6205-1 bearings, they are for a 1" shaft, the skidoos have a 25mm shaft.


-OEM rear axle seals part 570 0301 00.
-Front seals 581 1017 00
-Bearing splitter / puller kit.
-1" Inside Diameter pipe, Shaft Coupler or hydraulic cylinder Cross Tube


-Small awl or pick
-Small thin flat head screwdriver
-Butter knife with approx 1/4" of the tip bent about 90 deg.
-Mallet or heavy hammer
-Blocks of wood
-Cargo straps
-Milk crates or large blocks of wood
-Several tubes of cold weather grease, depending on how enthusiastic you are with the grease gun
-80W Gear oil.
-Lots of shop cloths / paper towels.

Some tricks I used

Remove all bogies and the rear axle, disassemble the rear axle to inspect the bearings and the grease seals, and see how the seals are removed (Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides). The front is the same but uses oil seals.

This rear bearing was rusted solid and the entire bearing was spinning in the cup.


While you have the bogies out, take the opportunity to grease the crap out of them, push out the cross shafts and grease them.

Lay the sled on the right side, PTO side up, and support it with blocks or milk crates and straps. On a table or bench would be ideal, at least it should be off the floor so you can access the bearing cup on the Magneto side. The more immobile it is the better. I had mine this way for several days as I worked around it. Support the track as well and push forward and up off the drive cogs. Make enough room to stand or sit inside it so you have good access to the front axle.


Remove the chain case caps and remove the tension on the chain in the chain case by removing the tensioner paddle. If there are two tensioners (Olympic) unbolt the top one and slide it up next to the top sprocket (easier than pulling it out). I did this so the lower sprocket did not move and I was able to remove and reinstall the splined drive shaft into the sprocket with little effort. Having the sled stable ensured the lower sprocket did not move.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to move the chain case around, so the sprocket will be moving out of position. Removing the top tensioner does help. To reassemble you will have to wiggle and move the driveshaft and the sprocket to get them to synch up.

Olympic top tensioner moved:


For the front driveshaft.

Use the awl, pick, screwdriver or butter knife to poke and pry out the seal on both sides. If they are good and you are not replaceing them be careful, they can be removed without damaging them.

Remove the three bolts holding the magneto side bearing cup.

Remove the cotter pin on the driveshaft in the chain case.

The drive shaft can now be pulled down by hand / or tapped with a mallet from the top to push the bearing out of the chain case housing. Keep an eye out for the spacer washer on the drive shaft that goes between the sprocket and the bearing, it should be on the shaft.

Once loose you can tip it to one side and remove it.

Update: The above works well for an Elan, but for an Olympic you will have to unbolt the chain case and move it out of the tunnel so that the drive shaft can clear the opening.
With the sled on the magneto side the weight of the secondary clutch should tip the chain case and pivot it out of the hole in the tunnel. You can leave the drive belt on, just have to remove the long bolt that adjusts the secondary position, the 2 nuts at the middle and one nut at the bottom.

Bearing removal

-With the front or rear shaft in a vise, put the bearing remover behind the bearing, slightly loose so it does not score the shaft as it is pulled off.
-Use a socket or other spacer slightly smaller diameter than the shaft to press on the shaft.
-Tighten the bolt to pull the bearing off.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft, use a spacer to protect the shaft.













Installing a bearing

-Remember to put the seal on first, in the correct orientation.
-With the shaft in a vise, hold the bearing in position by hand, it might go on the shaft a small amount.
-Put a block of wood on it and hammer it on.
-Make sure the bearing is perpendicular to the shaft when you start.
-After it starts it will straighten itself the correct way. Hammer it down till it will not go further / flush with the end of the shaft.
-For the PTO side of the drive shaft use the 1" ID shaft coupler / cross tube to go over the spilnes and hammer the bearing into place.





Cross tube on PTO side of an Olympic front shaft:


Drive shaft reistallation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the seals are pressed firmly into the cup so that they are uniformly pushed in from the cup edge a bit. You should feel them pop into place.

PTO side.




Mag side.




Once you have the front axle sealed and bolted in on both sides, put the sled upright, put some oil in the chain case to verify no leaks.

Don't forget to grease the rear axle.

No more pools of oil, nice.

For anyone seeing this thread in the future, I would skip this highlighted step (2) and go straight to step 3. It’s not necessary.

 

^^^^^^

When we pull the tracks out of our vintage sleds that are bogies, we also skip step 2. We pull the link plates off attached to the rear axle, a lot easier to remove the link plate off when it's on the work bench.

 

I am very short on time. I cant find a Hood anywhere here on Finland. But i wonder if there an easy way to repair the hood for my 1975 skidoo Elan, It seems to made of some kind of plastic. Glasfiber on The whole Hood maybe? It Is in the worst condition you could imagine. Every tip helps.

 

Everything is possible. I made several repairs with plastic welding using a soldering iron backed by a metal plate pop riveted to the hood. I also used Bondo glass reinforced filler for final finish. It wasn't show quality but good enough for a rider.

 

I used a soldering iron and melted a wire mesh into the plastic, over the cracks on the inside of the hood. The cracks were still visible, but it is now strong.