You won't want to make the swap with the secondary on the sled, more trouble than it's worth, pull the jack shaft.

You'll need:

Secondary compression tool, got mine from Goodwin and it works well.

GOOD set of torx bits

Propane torch to heat up the helix bolts, careful not to heat too much.

You can try using a 15 or 16mm deep well with an extension to hold the top gear in place as you back out the jack shaft, be careful there's a black spacer behind the gear that usually drops on me. In that event the gear case cover comes off for re assembly, happens to me every time.

You'll likely have to heat up the bearing housing on the PTO side of the jackshaft. Heat it up and slowly push the jack shaft out with the above mentioned deep well and extension. I can't recall the exact size of the deep well, choose the one that just fits inside the gear.

That should cover ya, not too bad after you do it a time or two.

Good luck!

 

Ya i remember the confusion from last year to,before i removed my shaft,at first you must remove the complete shaft and clutch,but once you replace the torx bolts with a good grade sae bolt plus locktight,you can remove the helix from the shaft with the shaft in place,just get the helix tool,dooskix told you to get. And i bought the same one he got from goodwins,but there are some others on dootalk that now make that tool,plus many others.

 

Pete how tough is it to get the helix lined up with the holes on the secondary with it still on the sled?

I would be worried about cross threading the soft aluminum on the helix given that it's difficult to see back there. It's not hard but it takes some effort with the whole assembly out of the sled.

 

Dreamer-
Send me your e-mail and I will send you the detailed instructions for jackshaft removal.- Chris

 

You've got a lot of neat tools but what about a top gear holding tool? That would be extremely helpful.

Just a thought.

 

i just push a screwdriver into the jackshaft as i pull the secondary out. holds the gear and spacer from falling.

 

The biggest issue and most time consuming issue has to be removing the entire shaft. I found an easy way of not having to take off my chaincase cover. I just remove the rubber cap undo the bolt. Then tie on some string to the end of the bolt without the washer and put back on a few turns. Then when you pull out the shaft everything stays in place. The string goes through the gear and will not fall. Was very cheap and easy. I did not need any special tools to remove the helix and spring from the QRS all I used was a press. Worked good for me.

My only issues with the clutching was getting that darn primary split. That taper holds really tight.

 

does anyone have a video of how to take it apart? i know cudney had one last year for the rev, but havent seen the xp yet, i know that was a big help for me actually seeing it be done.

 

Good idea 129!

Does anyone want to tape over their handy-cam late night adventures with Paris Hilton and post a video?

dreamer

 

X2
noboby got a vid on this yet?

 

Any video of this yet? I am in the process of putting DJ's kit on my sled. I have the primary all done and now I am onto the secondary and I do not have the QRS tool. Is there anyother way I can change the helix without this tool? Also with getting the jackshaft out I can just take the rubber grommit off the chaingcase and slowly knock it through right? Sorry for the questions but this is the first time I have tried this and I do not want to screw anything up.

 

You could make your own tool from your old POS plastic adjuster. (That is if you have a new billet adjuster. )

 

No I currently do not have the new adjuster.

 

Does BRP make a tool for the QRS. I would rather go to the dealer today and pick one up because I need my sled done by this weekend.

 

yes, 30 bucks or so

 

if your wondering what the "flange" is, a note is you need a 13mm to remove it.