You should be able to easily work the seal out with a flat blade screwdriver. Wipe out as much old grease as possible and replace with fresh isoflex nb52. Fill the back side of a new seal with fresh isoflex as well. Lube the seal lip, spec is to use petamo here (I use mobil 1 synthetic) but lots of folks use other greases including just using isoflex. Use the retainer to push in the new seal and don't forget to locktite the bolts.

 

I wouldn't use the retainer to push in seal. All that did for me was bend the crap out of my retainer. Get some pvc pipe like the photo below and some large washers and push it in with the clutch bolt

 

I've used the retainer as a pusher with no issue. Get the seal started first by hand, then install and tighten the retainer evenly using all 4 bolts. Very easy, the clutch bolt method is generally used by the 600 carb guys who have no retainer.

 

Just sayin I ruined 2 seals and the retainer trying that method on my sdi.

 

The pipe method is best. It's just a seal retainer not an installer.

 

just a thought for you but i had all kinds of problems with my outer seal. bought a bearing buddy and never had a problem since. best money spent.

 

What are the specs on that piping?

 

Use the pvc pipe or cut a hole in a 2x4 and use the clutch bolt to push it in. I used two screws and ran them in a couple turns and used a pair of vice grips to pull the old seal out. Get some iso for the bearing while you're in there too.

 

Just saying I ruined 2 seals and the retainer trying that method on my sdi.

Please avoid using just saying as an argument. My experience was identical to Roamer7, so there is obviously a problem that we can all learn from. If you are seeing something different then your strength is to show what we are missing. There is no way we can be so far apart without a good explanation.

 

Please avoid using just saying as an argument. My experience was identical to Roamer7, so there is obviously a problem that we can all learn from. If you are seeing something different then your strength is to show what we are missing. There is no way we can be so far apart without a good explanation.

That's a strange thing to tell someone. He clearly posted his experience and a picture of a cheap diy tool for installing these parts. Remember this is a forum where people get to freely express their opinion and experiences (within the rules of the forum of course). Who are you to tell him how to speak? I see nothing wrong with how he handled himself?!

 

To the OP...I would not use the retainer to install the new parts. It will be very difficult to EVENLY tighten the retainer bolts to squarely drive the new parts into their bore. The retainer isnt overly stiff and could be prone to bending if not tightened down evenly. The pipe method is probably the best....or build yourself a fixture to use the clutch bolt.

 

Npickle12 you are right and I should have spent more time writing that post. We are loosing from his experience is what I meant to say. There is a good reason why the experience is different, and it's not as simple as what we are making it out to be.

 

Npickle12 you are right and I should have spent more time writing that post. We are loosing from his experience is what I meant to say. There is a good reason why the experience is different, and it's not as simple as what we are making it out to be.

Daag I respect you but dude you over analyze stuff relax ????

 

ok guys,kinda confused on a few points.Firstly the seal basically fell out with just using my fingers,surprised.

Thx Roamer,ive seen your posts for years and know u have done lots off miles especialy on that 03 and have

lots off experience workin on these sleds.I personally have done lots also,I came up with the coolent insert that many are makin money on

now as well as closing off the holes on the back off the airbox,all my ideas and freely given on this site long before everyone new there was problems.

What i am wondering is with these methods is it better to quickly pop the seal in with one good tap or slowly squeeze it in with either method so seal inner lip dosent rip.I was going to use brake slide grease on the inside and outside of seal (rubber safe and slippery) to keep the seal from damage on install.Was also cosidering Yamabond sealent.Whats your thoughts on this.Also should i use locktite red ,blue or maybe parmetax Aviation sealent on the 4 screws.Thx guys ps: i sure hope the mag side is ok for this season at 5600 miles!

 

I like to work it in gently not one big hit. I would not use red on the screws there always hard enough to get back out. Also if you pack it from just the outside your not getting grease into the inner pto bearing I like to syringe some through the elbow it gets into the back one too. I also use right stuff on the outer edge of seal

 

ok guys,kinda confused on a few points.Firstly the seal basically fell out with just using my fingers,surprised.

Thx Roamer,ive seen your posts for years and know u have done lots off miles especialy on that 03 and have

lots off experience workin on these sleds.I personally have done lots also,I came up with the coolent insert that many are makin money on

now as well as closing off the holes on the back off the airbox,all my ideas and freely given on this site long before everyone new there was problems.

What i am wondering is with these methods is it better to quickly pop the seal in with one good tap or slowly squeeze it in with either method so seal inner lip dosent rip.I was going to use brake slide grease on the inside and outside of seal (rubber safe and slippery) to keep the seal from damage on install.Was also cosidering Yamabond sealent.Whats your thoughts on this.Also should i use locktite red ,blue or maybe parmetax Aviation sealent on the 4 screws.Thx guys ps: i sure hope the mag side is ok for this season at 5600 miles!

I push the seal in slowly so a big shot of pressure doesn't dislodge the inner seal. I find the seal isn't so tight fitting in the cases that use the retainer that lube or sealant are needed on the seal OD. so I leave that clean and dry. I use blue locktite on the retainer bolts and torque to spec.

ps. At 5600 miles I would be more concerned with the MAG side than the PTO (unless the PTO has been slinging grease). The MAG side holds a lot less grease than the PTO. If I were you I'd add 10 ml to the MAG side while you're at it. :Cheers

 

X2^^^

 

Well i have a full tube of ISO,so whats involved in added grease to Mag side with engine in chassie , obviously pipe and water pump/recoil have to come off then what happens? Thx

 

Well i have a full tube of ISO,so whats involved in added grease to Mag side with engine in chassie , obviously pipe and water pump/recoil have to come off then what happens? Thx

 

Well i have a full tube of ISO,so whats involved in added grease to Mag side with engine in chassie , obviously pipe and water pump/recoil have to come off then what happens? Thx

No water pump remove recoil flywheel then unscrew one of the stator bolts use a syringe to inject oil through the stator bolt hole

 

The hardest part of doing the mag side would be in my opinion getting the flywheel off. I was using a puller with everything lined up and it just didn't want to move. Mind you, this was with the engine out and ideal working conditions. it was just stuck on there. I finally got it, but only after a lot of swearing. Get or make your own flywheel holder to make the whole thing a little easier. I made one by copying what I saw a picture of from one of the vendors sites. The holder just keeps the crank from rotating while you are using the puller on the flywheel.

 

Remove 2 stator bolts. 1 for injection and 1 for relief. Like otherwise stated a flywheel puller and holder are critical tools to have for this job.

 

First off Top notch info guys. Second Im putting a top end in right now and removed the engine to clean and inspect everything. I was going to split the cases and iso the bearings and put new seals in but seen this post and how easy it is to lube the mag side bearing and that got me thinking. Do i really need to split the cases? So I guess here is my question Can you replace the mag seal without splitting the cases, and if not, should i be concerend if the seal is dry and not leaking and just greese the bearing? I am big on pre mait and would just replace it but snow is here and if people do not have problems with this seal i may leave it for another year.

 

Flywheel puller and holder,?Were do i get that,skidoo? Is there another way to remove,ie:******* puller also when reinstalling

whats the torque spec guys.Thx

 

First off Top notch info guys. Second Im putting a top end in right now and removed the engine to clean and inspect everything. I was going to split the cases and iso the bearings and put new seals in but seen this post and how easy it is to lube the mag side bearing and that got me thinking. Do i really need to split the cases? So I guess here is my question Can you replace the mag seal without splitting the cases, and if not, should i be concerend if the seal is dry and not leaking and just greese the bearing? I am big on pre mait and would just replace it but snow is here and if people do not have problems with this seal i may leave it for another year.

You can't replace mag bearing without splitting the case and and the pto seal is part of the inner bearing so you can't replace that unless you press the two off the crank on the pro side of the sled passes a leak down test add grease and ride