Ski-Doo Snowmobiles Forum banner
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Motorsports in general are money pits and these machines require more maintenance and repairs than a normal automobile. The only way to make them less of a ripoff is to do it yourself - and honestly if you want it done correctly.... If you have any mechanical ability at all, use this site as a great resource and learn to do it yourself.

As a nice side effect, you'll know the machine inside and out should you need that info broken down on the side of the trail.
 
That doesn't seem crazy for dealer service. The more important question is, do you trust your dealer to do good work? If so, I wouldn't be too concerned paying that. The other option is, do it yourself. Other than the recall, it doesn't sound like anything you're doing is overly complex. Watch some Youtube videos, take pics and notes, and I bet you'll be able to handle most of it on your own.
 
Owning a Sled and ATV repair shop, all I can tell you is the number of customers that come in and say "sled don't need much, or I did the service last year" are the sleds that seem to need the most.
If you can do it that's awesome!!!! if you think you might be able too, buy a shop manual and give it a try. if you don't have a clue, DONT TRY!!! Every year we get a "Box of Sled parts" job. :). The best one is "take a look inside the shocks and if they really need a rebuild, do it"
 
My preseason service is usually around $400-550 per sled and is very thorough. Like many have stated, almost every sled winds up needing something fixed or replaced to get back to 100%. Clutches get fully disassembled and cleaned/inspected. Chaincase service (depending on mileage drain and fill or full cover pull to inspect), brake pads checked, brake fluid almost always needs a flush. I also document everything and supply the owner with pictures so they know why I'm recommending what I am. Labor rate is $105/hr and usually takes me 3hrs to do a full preseason with the inspection and documentation (suspension setup sheet, clutching sheet if aftermarket stuff installed, etc).

Steering post bushings and driver/jackshaft bearings are becoming even more popular as the G4's start to get higher mileage.

All that said, your dealers pricing seems very fair. However, I would probably recommend doing the checkovers and basic stuff on the '19 and the '21 yourself and drop the '15 off for a full lookover.
 
My 1200 needs a T-stat.. No way I'm going to try and do that myself. Oil, filter, chaincase is all easy DIY stuff but hey, as long as the sleds going in, they are going to do it all and my hands stay clean. Oh and I hate doing hyfax so they're going to do that too. I'm getting old and it's just too easy to say F it and let someone else do it.
 
Mobil 1 is $26 for 4qt jug, filter at dealer is $15. Chaincase oil is $15 per bottle so $30, or just get a qt of 75w140 for $15. Either way you can be into it for $75 max.
The dealer isn't going to use Mobil 1, he's going to use a Doo oil change kit and call it a day.

That way no one can say it wasn't Doo oil and he's making $$$ on the parts too.
 
My 1200 needs a T-stat.. No way I'm going to try and do that myself. Oil, filter, chaincase is all easy DIY stuff but hey, as long as the sleds going in, they are going to do it all and my hands stay clean. Oh and I hate doing hyfax so they're going to do that too. I'm getting old and it's just too easy to say F it and let someone else do it.
I don't blame you one bit for doing this and the next person will say it cost too much. When a person gets older just as easy.

But like myself I really enjoy doing this work>>>Actually is kind of fun for me. Have the time and warm place to do this type of maintenance. I do my own trucks, cars also but like I said that is just me.
 
Ever since I went back to the 2 stroke the oil changes are pretty easy :ROFLMAO:
For sure! lol

A few weeks ago I ran out of 2S so I found an old half quart bottle of Yamalube on the shelf. It had me think when was the last time I had a Yamaha, which was in the early 2000s, but it was an MX 250 four stroke. The previous one was a 1986 YZ 125 2S that I bought in cardboard boxes in the early 90s. That had me think twice and I decided against using it lol I also had a half quart of iPone racing 2S oil from the early 2000s that I could have used. We burnt a few engines with that one, but it was our fault for running forged pistons without enough clearance that local pro had setup for us. He must have done something right because it kept screaming over 9000 rpm and we ran out of tip weight to bring it down. Each time a Wiseco piston squeaked we would replace it with the previous OEM piston. It was a triple so this fun lasted a while lol After the first one we switched to 32:1 premix and it still kept on squeaking the other pistons lol
 
Your quote seems fair.
We are all cut from the same cloth, we want it cheap.
There’s a story line about cheap, fast and good and you can only pick two. Something like this:

If you want something good and fast, it won't be cheap. If you want something good and cheap, it won't be fast. If you want something fast and cheap, it won't be good.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts