Ski-Doo Snowmobiles Forum banner

Possibly splitting the 583 engine case. Any tips?

1.4K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  MikesHOs  
#1 ·
I may have to split the case on my 583 to press the clutch sheave off. As far as mechanical ability, thats not an issue, but we've never worked on snowmobile stuff before, the engine is still in the sled. Are there any tools required that are sled-specific, and any tips you can give before we start?

Are these Clymer manuals any good or is there a better book to get for torque specs, step by step, etc?

Thanks-Dan
 
#4 ·
When I was younger I hung around with a guy that rebuilt Volkswagon air cooled engines and he had a freezer in his shop.
He always froze certain parts an heated others to get them together and it was amazing what he did.
So if the sled is sitting out in the cold, then get a small concetrated tourch and heat the clutch where it meets the crank.
It just might break the seal and the clutch will pop right off.

Good luck
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Have you tried all the tricks?
-Grease pumped into clutch end. Tighten very tight and smack end of puller with hammer.
-Leave sled outside in the cold for the night. Next day install puller good and tight and pour boiling water over the clutch, many times the clutch pops off.
-Big friggin' extension on the wrench you are using on the puller.
-Grease pump into clutch end, impact wrench on clutch puller. The grease acts as a damper between the impact and the crankshaft.

Good luck!
Jerry C
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
FormulaDan, there is a 1996 shop manual available on eBay through Foxmoto951 that should have all the specs you need for that 583. I use the later years and they are quite comprehensive. After following your posts, I would almost certainly split the case to remove the crank for further attempts at removing that mismatched puller. You can first press that clutch face off in a hydraulic press and then go to work on the broken puller in a drill press. If that fails, a remanufactured crank may be your best option..I paid around $400.00 for one last spring directly from the dealer. As far as specialty tools and supplies, a good torque wrench, a degree wheel for resetting the rotary valve, a puller for the flywheel, several different loctites listed in the manual, Isoflex for the crank bearings and probably a bunch of little things I can't think of at the moment. There are many specialty tools listed in the manuals that you can get by without if you have resources and mechanical abilities. Hope this is some of the info you're looking for.
 
#10 ·
FormulaDan, there is a 1996 shop manual available on eBay through Foxmoto951 that should have all the specs you need for that 583. I use the later years and they are quite comprehensive. After following your posts, I would almost certainly split that case to remove the crank for further attempts at removing that mismatched puller. You can first press that clutch face off in a hydraulic press and then go to work on that broken puller in a drill press. If that fails, a remanufactured crank may be your best option..I paid around $400.00 for one last spring directly from the dealer. As far as specialty tools and supplies, a good torque wrench, a degree wheel for resetting the rotary valve, a puller for the flywheel, several different loctites listed in the manual, Isoflex for the crank bearings and probably a bunch of little things I can't think of at the moment. There are many specialty tools listed in the manuals that you can get by without if you have resources and mechanical abilities. Hope this is some of the info you're looking for.
Great info. Thank you sir.