I have mass weights in mine. If I recall they are equivilent to 10 singles. I ordered them from cv tech.

 

try the Canadian looney i think they call it, or whatever coin you guys have up there

 

or twoonie.. lol

 

I'll give a toonie a shot. Tried some fender washers I have layout around the shop..heavier than the sheet metal pucks for the same equivalent thickness, but they need to be turned down a bit as the OD is just a hair too big. Sent some 3/8" thick pucks to the laser guys to cut and see how that works.

Are the mass weights made of something other than carbon steel?

 

I made a mold from steel and then melted down lead fishing weights. Made 70 and 80 gram weights. Running the 80gram weights with 2 of the standard disks at 7.5lbs boost.

 

a loonie and a toonie are not enough weight when measuring thickness of the stock "coins" it doesnt equate to adding more weight. I tried squishing fishing lead weights didnt work again due to thickenss as a coin weighs anywhere from 5.1 to 5.9 grams. cv tech has heavier weights to add both in the form of a step weight which sticks in the hole and weighs about 53 g and then another flat "coin" type that weighs about 23 g. They are in expensive to buy I know Orps has them in Newmarket in Ontario. Also they have the dumb plastic things that screw on to hold the "coins" in that strip easily the new ones have a smaller slot for a scew driver havent tried but look much better

 

Yes, Cv tech has a mass weight... We made our first ones out of lead, 53 grams. Anything close will work to that will work than just add a few small ones to adjust. We are running 157/257 1- mass and 7 pucks. 47/44 green spring in the secondary. at 6psi on a 137'' tack 1.25 lugs. Oh! and a butt load of nails.

 

You guys.... :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

Ben there, done that.. I also tried with PB-80 and it didnt work god enough for me. Actually went back to TRA with heelclickers and now i am really happy :biggrin_old:

Go for a much steeper Helix and red spring in secondary.. I have tried the setup you guys use ower there and it didnt impress me...

 

Thanks for the info guys. I think I have a handle on the weights. Curious to see how this works since I've had both the Yamaha and the pinned TRA on the same sled with the same setup.

 

You guys.... :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

Ben there, done that.. I also tried with PB-80 and it didnt work god enough for me. Actually went back to TRA with heelclickers and now i am really happy :biggrin_old:

Go for a much steeper Helix and red spring in secondary.. I have tried the setup you guys use ower there and it didnt impress me...

OK.. Let us take a look..

Let say... 52/42 red spring. 205/315

47/44 green 180/300

The spring plays a big part on the start on the clutch, you add a steeper start angle but add more spring. ??? Robbing peter to pay paul.

I will agree for off trail or hills it will give you more back shift ,on the trail it feel like you put the brakes on. I don't care for heavy back shift in the trails. I want it to be there when I need it but feel free in the corners.

Also the red spring is longer and seem to take a set very soon. The green spring is short and lasts a long time.

No doudt the TRA can be made to work very well... but when you have over 5000 miles on one and never replaced a part call me!

My pb-80 has been on my 2009 from new with now 2 years of turbo on it ...,people here in michigan have seen mine run and well!

So, off trail guys with paddles peodudn has good advice... on trail guys wear your seat belt!

I guess some guys may like heavy trail back shift but I don't care for them.

The red spring also does grip the belt tighter for you steep and deep guys..

The 47/44 set up fells more zippy on the tail but it not any faster the say the 52/42 with the red. But 47/44 feels more fun on the trail with that zippy feeling.

Doodoctor.

 

Also the fuel milage will be alot worst with the heavier driven spring.

 

Also the fuel milage will be alot worst with the heavier driven spring.

X2

 

I was expecting that someone wouldnt agree with me, but my experiense with the setup used "ower there" did not work for me god enough.

I talked to Cudney Racing and got his setup with PB-80. Mounted the kit and went for a testride with my buddy. Hes also got Turbo 180hp. I lost that battle so bad that i could almost not believe it. So i went to a tuner-guy her in my hometown and he made a kit for me.

He wont tell me what settings that kit has. Helix was designed by him and made spesially for him only. but he told me i would be surprised if i knew ho steep it is. I tell you, its more than straight 50. Spring was the red one but he had cut of that smal tip in the end of spring(the one that goes in the hole)

TRA was set up with secret spring and almost no weight to heelclicker.

The movie i made in testing could show you the rest. Testing was made in axact same conditions several times.

the first test show clutching mad by a local tuner. Last test in movie is with setting from Cudney. Top-speed was identical in both tests. The difference was in accelleration.

 

i have a pb80 on my mcx 240 kit and a cat secondary on it. while it works ok i have a lot of heat in clutches i would like to try my tra 5 back on it as it seems to be the best working clutch available for 12 to 15 lbs of boost but the fear of it coming appart is scary. i wish i knew if all the problems were just a torquing properly thing or will they never last on a turbo. I have my hrp but do not want to use it for everyday riding and just keep it for racing.

 

i have a pb80 on my mcx 240 kit and a cat secondary on it. while it works ok i have a lot of heat in clutches i would like to try my tra 5 back on it as it seems to be the best working clutch available for 12 to 15 lbs of boost but the fear of it coming appart is scary. i wish i knew if all the problems were just a torquing properly thing or will they never last on a turbo. I have my hrp but do not want to use it for everyday riding and just keep it for racing.

TRA with 240hp is not a god idea.. Scary enough with 180hp :sad_old:

I also had wery hot clutch when i used PB-80, and after trying several different setups without any god results i sold it..

 

TRA with 240hp is not a god idea.. Scary enough with 180hp :sad_old:

I also had wery hot clutch when i used PB-80, and after trying several different setups without any god results i sold it..

the question is what is the better clutch??? i have an hrp which was great on the track 1/4 mile at a time but not good for continual mileage due to the need to continually re torque the spider retainer. I have heard of other high priced clutches having problems on the taper and shaft and this also I have heard with a yamaha clutch. could it be these clutches tapers are the problem or an installation problem. my pb while getting hot still works and isnt showing any affects of a problem existing at 14 lbs with limited usuage............yet

 

Lots of guys here use Polaris primary clutch. Dont know if its reliable but the tuninguys say its so easy to modify.


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or twoonie.. lol

A loonie ways 7grams right on. I think the toonie is different in weight. My pb80 never get any hotter then luke warm even after a 150 mile day. I ride with a guy who has 2012 800 renny. When we stopped I said let see how hot they are to touch the TRA and the PB80 We both had to take are hands off of the TRA WHILE MY PB80 was actualy was cool to touch IMO pb80 never heats up

 

A loonie ways 7grams right on. I think the toonie is different in weight. My pb80 never get any hotter then luke warm even after a 150 mile day. I ride with a guy who has 2012 800 renny. When we stopped I said let see how hot they are to touch the TRA and the PB80 We both had to take are hands off of the TRA WHILE MY PB80 was actualy was cool to touch IMO pb80 never heats up

a loonie is comparable to 2 of the pucks that they come with in terms of thickenss which 2 of them weigh anywhere from 10.2 to 11.8g so you are goign backwards using either a toonie or a loonie. what spring rate are you using?