There are some people that oval and enduro on there. First thing they will ask is what sled are you trying to set up?

 

Racing section down below there are a few oval posts ... some of those guys will surely help you out ...

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA

 

what sled are you racing? stocker? I raced polaris stockers for 8 years. Where are you racing? Eagle River by chance in the pure stock class? Ask me anything you want I will set you up.

 

Deffinatly need more info on what your running. Vintage, Stocker, Pro Cup, Twinr Tracker..... A few basic ideas of suspension and physics will go a long way for ya and remeber everything traingulates so make small adjustments, and one at a time or you'll never get a hold of whats going on. As a rule use more crabide than you think you need to start. even to a little toe out. Get your seat and foot hold set up and very comfortable and very rigid. Soften rear suspension(more track on the ice) for more bite (if loose). Stiffen rear if your pushing through the corner. By the way are you running Boonville (Adirondack Cup) at the end of the month.

 

I am running a 2000 mxz 700, its piped and has v force 3 reeds and thats it. I have 144 studs, and just put brand new 8 inch dooly carbides on it. I am racing a third mile oval at Brighton speedway, its in Onatrio Canada. All I have done so far is lower my front and tighten my limiter strap all the way down. I raced last year and it pushed pretty bad in the corners, definatley need to fix that, any suggestions?

 

You have a good start.

What stud are you using? I would recommend no less than 192 Ice Picks. I run something 240 to 300 picks on a 600cc sled. Trail studs will not bite into the ice unless its super soft.

Carbides Ive used several sizes but a good start would be 10" ice racing carbides. Mounted 50/50 in relation to your spindle bolt. Ice racing carbides are different from your standard trail bar. They are shaped like a triangle. Only use them on the ice as they are expensive and will get ruined on the trail.

I dont know how low your running. I have a different set of shocks that have lowering spacers in them. I used to set up my trailing arm Polaris's with about 3" travel on the skis. Your sway bar and ice hardness will determine your spring rate. Generally soft springs for hard ice, stiff for soft ice. Then suck the rear skid to level out the chassis flat. You can probably use a limiter strap on the rear torque arm to get it down if you dont have a shorter shock. 3" travel is a good starting point (from the bottom of the spring to the bump stop). If the torsion spring is too stiff find softer springs or just use one. Your front torque arm, suck it up to maybe 1" travel. Use a super soft spring, I have a 60#/in spring I used to use. You want lots of ski pressure to get it to corner.

Hopefully this helps. Its a lot of work getting a sled set up. Good Luck!

 

What race is on...I am not aware of it.

Do you have a link

 

Also need to know your rules. Sounds like a trail class which rules out racing carbids. But 10" single carbide would be better than those dooly's, you want more weight on less surface area to get the front to bite. So 45 or 60 deg trail carbides will be the way to go if it is a trail class. Also wont to soften your front up a good bit and keep the right side stiffer than the left. Might want to try less tension on the rear coil pre-load springs on the inside also some have had sucess with it some don't like it.

 

hey,

we run a pro-champ oval sled in the Eastern pro tour. I have set-up a couple of sleds for friends that run a trail-stock class. You can make it handle better by lowering the front-end (tie-downs are the easiest) without spending a bunch of money on shocks, you might as well stiffen them up as much as you can. The swaybar and springs on that sled are too soft for oval racing. You'll have to chain or strap the front end down tho. Limiter straps from the rear suspension make good hold-downs, just try and double them up.

Second, try and pull the front of the rear-skid up quite a ways. the more you pull up, the more weight you'll get on the front-end. The down-side of this is you may spin off the start (if your using trail studs you will spin anyway)

Make sure you use new studs and good new sharp carbides.

finally, I've seen some guys win in the trail stock class just simply by having a fast sled down the stretch. Get your clutching good and you should do fine.

Also, the further you can get up on the sled (trying to kiss to left front) the more front-end you will have too.

Do you go to Brighton much? I've been there a few times..won a legends race there a couple years ago.

Jeff

 

Hey Jeff,
I have been going there my whole life, my dad raced latemodels there for twenty years, he also raced all over in the US aswell. I am running my sled there three times this year and my quad there 5 times in the summr. We are there at the end of Jan, you should come out and race. Let me know if you do.

Also what do you mean by ( pull the front of the rear skid up) I am new to this so I am pretty much in the dark. I am not sure wat the rear skid is?

 

Rear skid- I sent you the pm and said drill new mounting holes for the front rear suspension arms above the stock ones. this raises your suspension in the front if you already have the limiter sucked up. In essence you are taking more track off the ground and puttinf ski pressure down

 

Shawn,

Basically just pull your limiter strap up as far as you can. Like said above, you can relocate the holes in the tunnel to raise it if you want to go more than just the limiter will allow.

I would like to come down, but we are racing in boonville that weekend.

Jeff

 

Are you the new guy or the last guy that drove Giffords sled...he was telling me about his history of drivers.

He is more of a balance type sled guy...he understands dragging the skis down the striaght..really upsets the clutches...its a balance not static pressure on the skis.

Shock setting is about the most important deal on an oval IFS sled.

 

It's a common setup to have a lot of weight on the skis....(good everyone thought that way...

)we had a balance actually most weight was on the front of the skid....non on the skis. Not IFS..but same deal...almost.

We floated the skis down the striaght...you can see from my pic...the sled steered really well..you can see that from my sitting position.

Lots of stuff dictates balance...on tight tracks we added studs to let the back come around..no we didn't slide it..it tracked. That is..more studs puts less pressure on each stud...

6 to 7" of carbide...always sharp...

This is coming off a 95 mph straightaway.

 

Better picture size...