Pre mix and running the pump. You have got to be kidding me. Don't all modern sleds pump oil on a variable rate? 120:1 at idle and at WOT up to 20:1 therefore making a moot point why to use the injection system. Kawasaki did in the 80's and I would be certain that was a concept that advances to all sleds when the patten ended.
Save oil, protect your motor at WOT. What a deal! Can a person see that if you mix fuel at 120:1 your sled will burn down. Mix the oil at 20:1 and your friends will abandon you because you smoke WAY to much metaphorically.
Lets move on to the next item of contention like jetting and how the oil ration affects if your sled is running lean or rich. Better too much oil than not enough mixing concept. Wrong. She sure was running good before she burned down. To much oil is like changing jets, all good old time racers that understand the principles of A/F ratio.
Mixed your fuel at the pump with temperatures outside at -12 but you wanted to go sledding bad. Burn down because the oil does not go into solution at those temperatures.
The list is endless. Run the pump, replace the cable, if something fails well, the world is not perfect but I take my chances. The system was set up with the pump, you could guess the carburetor (or FI) was set up with the pump also. Why would manufacturers build an injection pump system? Reliability? The reasonable solution to this question is to consult the manufacturers recommendations or a forum's voice.
Compression can very widely. Way widely. Within 10% balance with other cylinders is a good rule. When the sled is hard to start as a result of low compression and even low on HP... IF the causes are from compression. The number you get on your gauge is a number to reference to that motor. One of my compression gauges (CG) will register only 90lbs in my cylinder the other cylinder 92lbs. Sounds bad right? When some friend borrowed my gauge I had to buy another and this new gauge measured 135lbs and 137lbs. Understand compression as a relative guide. If your motor has 10,000 miles you probably need a bore, piston and rings.