[dmb28]

also it engages around 3000rpm

 

[#1 Poser]

Only problem I see with sitting on the clutch to remove the torx bolts is slipping and smashing your testicles. Maybe that's just my luck

 

[dmb28]

haha Yeah i wasn't sure about that part too... but life is not worth living if you dont take some risks!

Also i took it out for a longer test ride around town and man does this clutch change the sled! right off the bat the thing was quieter and ALOT less vibrations at idle (my hand guards usually do some shaking... but not any more!). also it did want to accelerate noticeably quicker and it did great at keeping the skis off the ground while on pretty firm packed snow around town. i did notice a different vibration and noise down low near my feet but im assuming its due to the lack of excess sound and the higher frequency vibrations through bars that came with the TRA. im hoping its not one of the bearings on my driveshaft but it might not be since the track tries to keep moving smoothly for a few seconds after it lowers RPMs to idle while sitting on a stand (track does also seem tighter after the last dealership visit/replacement of engine).

So far i am pretty happy with the new clutch. i did notice that the over rev was a little quicker to find with the better acceleration but that should make it run just right once im at my normal riding elevations (1000 to 1400 meters). unless of course i feel like taking in a nice view even higher up.... but ill leave that part for later. right now im just hoping i followed your guys steps and tips correctly. i keep thinking i should give the clutch bolt one more retorque but that might cause problems later on down the road or also thinking those trox for the ring gear are backing out.

One other thing i noticed was the belt i had on the sled seemed to have a piece of something stuck in it or something cause it did make many small nicks on the engine side face. i ran my hand along the nicks and never really felt any thing other then a barely noticeable ring where the belt sits at idle and during engagement. i did find and remove a very small piece of what appeared to be metal stuck in part of the threads in the belt. the nicks and ring appear to be mostly visual change for now so i will be removing the belt and running a brand new 377 since id rather not risk possibly more damage.

i also looked at the TRA and it too has the nicks but with no apparent ring (could be packed with belt dust now). there are alot more nicks on it but it also feels mostly smooth. im guessing it was teeny left overs from getting the new engine put in.

I will post more after i get some time on a mountain which hopefully is this weekend. if there are any pictures any one would like to see just ask.

dave

 

[Will S.]

I would be concerned about it being lighter that the TRA. Dropping weight on one side of the crank without dropping weight on the other side could cause axial thrust on the crank. I would be worried about this thrust causing premature bearing failure and maybe even piston failure. I don't know for certain if this is happening, but I am sure that it is very likely to happen. Both sides of the crank need equal weight/load exerted on them to make the crank run true. I would be afraid that the weight difference would make the crank want to run more towards the mag side due to centrifugal force.

 

[dmb28]

why not start a thread on this theory? im sure there are several people who also have the PB80 and might like to know about it or see if this is true. i would think by now there might be some people having one of those problems and would be posting about it or making it known that possible damage might occur.

dave

 

[LRD]

I would be concerned about it being lighter that the TRA. Dropping weight on one side of the crank without dropping weight on the other side could cause axial thrust on the crank. I would be worried about this thrust causing premature bearing failure and maybe even piston failure. I don't know for certain if this is happening, but I am sure that it is very likely to happen. Both sides of the crank need equal weight/load exerted on them to make the crank run true. I would be afraid that the weight difference would make the crank want to run more towards the mag side due to centrifugal force.

Tra's weigh about 12 to 14 lbs, I've weighed my TRA III, But the flywheels I'm guessing are only in the 5 to 7 lb range. So with

your theory the PB's are a closer match.

I have been running the little brother, original PB 50 at 8 Lbs (no ring gear) on my ported and big bored 600 carb since Dec 07 on my 08 TNT mtn mod with no problems. Going from my sled to TNT with TRA is quite a shock.

Mine grabs R's like a formula one race car while the TRA makes the engine extremely sluggish. But part of that is my clutching, but still

lower inertia makes for a lot more fun!

Good Luck

 

[dmb28]

ive also noticed that with the PB the sled accelerates alot faster and actually feels like it wants to get moving. the TRA now seems like it was holding my sled back ALOT and i usually had to stop and let it cool down before i ripped a belt apart. i still havent been able to get on the mountain with it so i cant say much for belt life but i can already tell its going to be much fun to ride. now hopefully we get some new snow!

dave

 

[dmb28]

well finally got some good seat time on my sled. all i would have to say that it was the most fun ive had on this sled since the first time it was broken in (back when any thing with an 800 was fun). the Power Bloc 80 really helps with holding RPMs and it seems like it never quits pulling.... till some melt water gets mad at me then pours its self down from the front end and onto the clutches. what i noticed the water actually affects this clutch alot more then the TRA was affected but that only reduces it to near worn out TRA quality so you can usually pull out of it if your in a tight spot or blip the throttle to get it to cleanup again. it happened a handfull of times during the days... like a climb i did from 1500 meters upto 1900 meters where i thought it pulled the strings out of the newer 377 belt but it was just silly melt water but now looks like i will be starting a new "thing" to work on now that im happy with this "thing" im working on.

other then the occasional water splash i will say this clutch works great! the set-up Bill Cudney sent me worked well between 1100 meters to 1500 meters. if i do any long rides past the 1300 meter mark i think i will be removing a disc or two. this thing likes to grab hard and just keep pulling! i did manage to pull a string out one day but would blame it on a few good treeriding, jumping and just plain having fun sessions with a sort break here and there plus a well placed water splash. normally i would stop riding and let the clutches cool while watching the other people play but i think those days are over now haha.

me and a buddy tried a drag race just for fun and we noticed my freeride would easily grab and pull away from his 2012 M8 then as he started to get into his top end he would eventually gain the lead. although he just came back into town from a small drag race so his suspension was set up and mine was still stiff all around. so i think if it set up right i would be waving bye bye... that is if i was only drag racing every where but i dont see that happening enough to skimp out on the mountain side of things haha.

i will try to put a short video together in the next few days and post more about the clutch but for now its time to try and sleep again... dreams of wheeling every where keeps me awake due to the need to ride more.

dave

 

[SnowriderKALLV]

What spring are you running in the PB?

And what about gearing and secondary spring/helix?

I have to get out this wekend to test mine.

 

[dmb28]

actually i dont know what spring is in the PB. the secondary is probably getting worn and is bone stock. the only mods done for the drive train were the PB every thing else is stock including the gearing other then an MBRP can and grip'n rip bracing. i will can post later on the gearing though but thats not hard to find on the parts list from BRP.

dave

 

[67rs]

A little trick I've used for years to hold tra while removing or installing . Take a medium screwdriver and insert it into the teeth on ring gear and let it come into contact with a flat spot on side of engine and torque or remove clutch bolt , works great , give it a try you will be surprised how easy it is

 

[dmb28]

i thought about doing that but i didnt want to damage the ring gear since i needed it more then i need the TRA. i also didnt mind helping out a local and i am likely the only person within 300km that can quickly remove the TRA for someone since it seems no one has a holder. thanks for the tip though! it might come in handy if and when someone needs a bush repair.

dave

 

[SnowriderKALLV]

11 freeride would probable be 43-47 helix and purple secondary spring

I would shure want to know what primary spring to use.