Clutch bolt torque is 85-90 ft lbs assuming it uses the stock bolt, unless they call out a different torque for the PB.
No need to check runout unless you have issues, but requires a dial indicator and a magnetic mounting base with arm....indicator about 3/4 out on the crank stub and slowly rotate engine and see how much deflection there is. The 2011's are generally very good.
No need to index the PB to the crank.
You will need to heat the ring gear bolts, they are loctited and can be a PITA to get out. Not sure of the torque to reinstall, but use red loctite.
Good luck on your project and keep the questions coming, lots of helpful, knowledgable people on here.

 

thanks for the response winterbrew. just got it in my shop and i have been trying to get the clutch bolt out or even loosened but the dang thing isnt budging. i dont have the holder for it but i was able to secure it with a strap and a piece of rubber... then the strap broke after finally getting it not to slip. ive been waiting long enough for a new clutch so it would be nice to get to test it tonight if possible. hopefully the dealer didnt use red loctite cause i expected it atleast budge.

any one have any suggestions on a backyard mechanics way of safely getting the thing loose without damaging things? i might try the strap again but use a less rotten one this time haha.

now its cold so i might have to take it for another spin to get it warmed and loosened again.

thanks

dave

 

I just installed one on a sled. You need to have a clutch holding tool to hold the clutch in order to get the hold on bolt out. Can you borrow one? I welded one up. You will also need a different clutch hold tool for the PB80. Did you buy the recommended one? I was able to used the BRP holder tool that is made for TRA LITE clutch as I had one but I am not sure it will work with the ring gear on as it grabbed the ring gear bolt boss for an anchor.(not sure if there is room with the ring gear on). His sled did not use e-start. I told the guy to buy the tool as he will have to have it to fine tune the RPMS. Ring gear bolt torque=20ft lbs w red lock tite. Do as WB said and heat them first. A small pencil butane torch works good for this. First torque on main bolt=70 ft lbs then lift back of sled. Start engine run up to engage clutch then up to 15-20mph hit the brake. Do it four or five times then shut off and final torque. I think this seats it on the taper. On first test run it is close on the rpm but it really needs to be checked under load in deep snow. It did go into reverse without the ring gear. Some have said it needed the extra rotating mass, we will see.

 

yeah im pretty sure i would need the holder for the TRA now cause that sucker is probably on pretty good. im unsure of who would have one in town cause no one usually gets into clutching around here unless they go to a dealer but i might be able to get one fabricated. i do have the holder for the PB80 so that area is covered.

thanks

dave

 

so after searching for the whole afternoon ive decided its time to go with the custom fabricated clutch holding tool. so tomorrow id be going on a trail ride to the local welder/fabricator who just so happens to live a little ways out there haha. oh well i get to go for a sled ride! i guess its time to start cleaning body panels and making some prefilters for the vents. also does any one have any ideas of good plans for going to custom made holder route? im not really planning on using the clutch again unless i sell the sled and want to keep the PB80 for a 2014.

dave

 

hey guys im about to leave for a visit to the local fabricator/welder and i was wondering where the skidoo clutch holder fits onto/into the clutch to keep it from spinning. hopefully someone responds soon or i will be just guessing when i get there

thanks

dave

 

well i got the clutch holder made and it works way better then all the other failed ways i tried. it took him less then 10 minutes to design and 30 to 40 minutes to build. not to mention he only asked for 15 bucks when it was done!!!!! so i gave him 40 since he saved me 300 bucks in gas for heading to a dealer or waiting 2 weeks for ordering one. i have also gotten the TRA off the sled using the water trick and i am now trying to get the ring gear off and holy.... ummm shoots! those little torx bolts really need some heat. id have to say that aluminum really transfers heat well cause ive been heating this thing with my butane pen torch and its not working very well. its pretty much warm to the touch as soon as i put the torch doen then try loosening the bolt. all thats going on is i have a warm clutch plus my hand is getting tired of holding the torch and not being able to budge even one bolt. ive used one and a half teeny tanks on my little torch with no results. i will post pictures of the holder if i connect my phone to my computer tonight.

are there any tricks to get these bolts out or is it just heat them up and out some muscle to it?

dave

 

the powerbloc 80

my custom clutch holder and life saver.

the tools used so far for removal. used the little piece of board for keeping things from falling into the guts of the sled.

 

Can you rap the end of your torx socket with a hammer? The heat is supposed to soften the locktite glue. Sometimes a sharp rap on your socket will do the same thing.

 

Let us know how it works.

 

well i borrowed a better torch and im pretty sure if i keep trying to heat it im going to be burning my self through my gloves and the bolt looks like its almost ready to strip since the metal is so much softer. why does skidoo have to use those idiot torx bolts? i would really like to reef on those things or start beating it more with a hammer but im pretty sure i would be ruining them and the ring gear will still be attached.

what are the consequences of running the clutch without the gear? i dont really want to be going that route but it is an option. its time to actually look for that bigger breaker bar that i know is hiding some where. and no i dont have access to a impact gun at the moment.

if they are not out tonight i think i will be going for a drive tomorrow to visit a friend with a proper shop and a wider variety of tools.

dave

 

i know you dont have access to a impact,but that is what works the best...i find with a rachet it is hard to hold the clutch steady and apply force,you always end up going off angle and torx bit/bolts dont like that...heat up the torx bolt put the impact on ,hold it steady and a quick blip of the trigger

 

Well i finally got the torx bolts and the ring gear removed late last night. i actually thought it was going to be hard without an impact gun but i decided it would be a good idea to start thinking technical and also simpler rather then relying on brute force and high heat to get it off. i think i have found a fool proof way to remove it without damaging any thing. if im doing something wrong please respond.

here is how it went.

I found that only heating the parts on the clutch that were surrounding the bolt ALOT more helpful then only heating the bolt head or both at the same time. also it felt like the bolt softened up alot when you heated the head which could lead to stripping it. it doesnt take so much heat to break the connection from the loctite but does require a little "technique" i thought of.

this is the way i heated the area around the bolt that worked alot better then the other ways

this was one of the ways i was trying to heat the bolt and area surrounding it. it didnt help much at all. it might work with an impact gun but most times i never have access to one so i dont bother with them much.

this was what saved me from tossing the TRA and ring gear out the door. i had to search my various stashes of tools to find a larger breaker bar that was easier to hold. yes i am sitting on the clutch but i found this worked very well since it didnt move and it allowed me to use both hands on the tool so i can apply pressure but still be able to keep it straight while turning. unlike trying to use one hand to keep the clutch in place and using the other to turn. i also noticed i could use less heat then the other failed methods. i feel that if this way of removing them works very well and i wont be using an impact gun on the other clutches that need removal unless any one has a good reason not to do this again.

 

I WIN!!!

Now i have to see if my theory of this town not having red loctite is true. hopefully i will be posting about my initial review tonight. any last words before i try putting it on my sled??? if not i will be following what the others have posted about the torque specs and running the sled upto 30-40 on a stand then retorque to specs.

dave

 

Make sure the tapers are CLEAN!!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

oh im making sure they are! just noticed a teeny amount of rust looking stuff in the new PB80 im not sure if thats normal but its there. there is also some on the TRA also. i will be using brake clean to do the final cleaning. i find it funny that im still wiping them down even though the clutch isnt quite ready to go on yet haha.

dave

 

Take the time to study up on changing the weights in the slider pucks under the shiny lid. You will need a torque wrench and a socket 1 7/16 inch or metric equivalent to get the large nut off/on. IF you think from testing that you need a different spring then you will need to make or buy something to hold the spring cap while you remove the cap's screws. This is so you can release the cap/spring pressure.

 

thanks. i ordered the clutch pre-calibrated for the freeride from bill at cudney racing. hopefully its set up for 1000 meters or so with no mods other then an mbrp can. from what it looks like with the others running the PB80 is it would have a slightly lower engagement but still works well for loading the engine. for now i will be sticking with just adjusting the weights unless i find a real problem with with the spring. if that is the case i will be getting a spring compressor made up or see if the ones my friends have will do the trick then go from there. i havent gotten a reply from bill so since a day or two before his accident so i might be working blind unless another person on here has some tips about tuning the PB80

dave

 

testing it now.... shes snappy!! and not so as much rattle as before. i think im gonna like this clutch! will post more later

dave

 

also it engages around 3000rpm

 

Only problem I see with sitting on the clutch to remove the torx bolts is slipping and smashing your testicles. Maybe that's just my luck

 

haha Yeah i wasn't sure about that part too... but life is not worth living if you dont take some risks!

Also i took it out for a longer test ride around town and man does this clutch change the sled! right off the bat the thing was quieter and ALOT less vibrations at idle (my hand guards usually do some shaking... but not any more!). also it did want to accelerate noticeably quicker and it did great at keeping the skis off the ground while on pretty firm packed snow around town. i did notice a different vibration and noise down low near my feet but im assuming its due to the lack of excess sound and the higher frequency vibrations through bars that came with the TRA. im hoping its not one of the bearings on my driveshaft but it might not be since the track tries to keep moving smoothly for a few seconds after it lowers RPMs to idle while sitting on a stand (track does also seem tighter after the last dealership visit/replacement of engine).

So far i am pretty happy with the new clutch. i did notice that the over rev was a little quicker to find with the better acceleration but that should make it run just right once im at my normal riding elevations (1000 to 1400 meters). unless of course i feel like taking in a nice view even higher up.... but ill leave that part for later. right now im just hoping i followed your guys steps and tips correctly. i keep thinking i should give the clutch bolt one more retorque but that might cause problems later on down the road or also thinking those trox for the ring gear are backing out.

One other thing i noticed was the belt i had on the sled seemed to have a piece of something stuck in it or something cause it did make many small nicks on the engine side face. i ran my hand along the nicks and never really felt any thing other then a barely noticeable ring where the belt sits at idle and during engagement. i did find and remove a very small piece of what appeared to be metal stuck in part of the threads in the belt. the nicks and ring appear to be mostly visual change for now so i will be removing the belt and running a brand new 377 since id rather not risk possibly more damage.

i also looked at the TRA and it too has the nicks but with no apparent ring (could be packed with belt dust now). there are alot more nicks on it but it also feels mostly smooth. im guessing it was teeny left overs from getting the new engine put in.

I will post more after i get some time on a mountain which hopefully is this weekend. if there are any pictures any one would like to see just ask.

dave

 

I would be concerned about it being lighter that the TRA. Dropping weight on one side of the crank without dropping weight on the other side could cause axial thrust on the crank. I would be worried about this thrust causing premature bearing failure and maybe even piston failure. I don't know for certain if this is happening, but I am sure that it is very likely to happen. Both sides of the crank need equal weight/load exerted on them to make the crank run true. I would be afraid that the weight difference would make the crank want to run more towards the mag side due to centrifugal force.

 

why not start a thread on this theory? im sure there are several people who also have the PB80 and might like to know about it or see if this is true. i would think by now there might be some people having one of those problems and would be posting about it or making it known that possible damage might occur.

dave

 

I would be concerned about it being lighter that the TRA. Dropping weight on one side of the crank without dropping weight on the other side could cause axial thrust on the crank. I would be worried about this thrust causing premature bearing failure and maybe even piston failure. I don't know for certain if this is happening, but I am sure that it is very likely to happen. Both sides of the crank need equal weight/load exerted on them to make the crank run true. I would be afraid that the weight difference would make the crank want to run more towards the mag side due to centrifugal force.

Tra's weigh about 12 to 14 lbs, I've weighed my TRA III, But the flywheels I'm guessing are only in the 5 to 7 lb range. So with

your theory the PB's are a closer match.

I have been running the little brother, original PB 50 at 8 Lbs (no ring gear) on my ported and big bored 600 carb since Dec 07 on my 08 TNT mtn mod with no problems. Going from my sled to TNT with TRA is quite a shock.

Mine grabs R's like a formula one race car while the TRA makes the engine extremely sluggish. But part of that is my clutching, but still

lower inertia makes for a lot more fun!

Good Luck