From what i see, the 910 gauge is superseding all others in that group.

 

UPDATE: SOLVED!

So I couldn't get up the courage to gauge swap but we solved the issue. Everything works perfectly on the gauge now and its held up so far on about 4 days riding. I had carefully checked the circuit board and pins on the cluster for cracks and cold solders. I even used a magnifier but I missed the issue. My friend was over and double checked my work and discovered 5 solder cracks where the pins solder to the circuit board. I re-worked with my soldering iron and added a small amount of solder and we now have full function of everything in the gauges and heated grips!!!

If you are having trouble with your gauge, I would highly recommend a thorough check over of solder joints where the pins attach to the gauge cluster circuit board! Every time you remove the cluster harness the pins get pulled. It stands to reason that the solders can crack.

 

This post literally saved me $500 in replacing my gauges and it was a super easy fix. I too inspected each pin and it didnt look like any solder was cracked. but i couldnt get anything to work and every wire in the plug was showing to be working. So i disassembled the gauges and hit each pin at its solder point with a soldering iron to reheat the solder and bingo - i have a working tach/speed/temp guage and hand warmers!!! Anyone with the same issue, you have to do this. Didnt require any skill or any new solder, just touching up what was already in there by holding the tip to the pin for 10 seconds each.

 

My '14 just started having intermittent issues like you describe. The gauges turn off and back on, needles freeze on speedo and tach, and the handwarmers quit working. Cudos to you for diving into the problem all the way down to circuit board level! You must have electronics background, or your are fearless!!...actually both!!!

I was thinking it had to be a power wire or ground wire issue (seems like 95% of all electrical problems are covered by those 2) since mine was losing the entire guage.

I only unplugged my guage cluster once back in '14 when I installed the heated visor plug, ...but I know once is all it takes.

Thanks to you and your buddy, now I know where to start!

 

I was thinking it had to be a power wire or ground wire issue (seems like 95% of all electrical problems are covered by those 2) since mine was losing the entire gauge.

I would have thought the same for the gauge had it not been for the fearless with electronics backgrounds like you said. My guess is it stems from a very small number that others like ourselves have built from their experience. It took years to become better known, but I think it has finally snowballed for us more regular folks to take example.

 

I agree. The great dooTalk community has shared their discoveries and offered direction on the many challenging issues of these machines. This better understanding of our machines, that we are so passionate about, continues to add to our enjoyment with them!

 

I'm just a guy who has many gas powered hobbies and has to learn to fix them so I can afford to keep them. I have fixed the compass/thermometer display and instrument cluster in my 2003 duramax, and the the daytime running light module in my wife's honda accord using the same techniques.

As I understand it electronics have moved to lead free or lead reduced solder and that has dramatically increased the brittleness of solder joints. Because they are brittle, they don't like temperature cycles and vibrations. Hmmm.. perfect for skidoos then....

What you are looking for are cold solders (dull and grey instead of shiny) and or cracked solder joints. Use a magnifier and take your time or maybe just re-solder every single joint between the connector pins and the board. I wish I had taken pictures to post but the instrument cluster comes apart easily with a little prying in the right spots. Then using a soldering iron just reheat each connection and if you have it add a bit of lead solder (I buy mine from Bangood.com a website that still sells solder with lead in it). Be careful not to add too much solder and bridge from one pin to the next. This is an easy repair that costs you next to nothing.

I used this video to fix my compass/thermometer display on my duramax. It shows broken solders on several drop resistors and the repair process. Skip to the 2:41 mark to get right to the soldering fix:

(or just search you tube for search how to repair compass mirror)

I have also used his video of how to fix the PRNDL display on my truck when it failed. It is pretty much the same thing. Re-heat the joint with a soldering iron and apply a tiny dab of fresh solder and you are back in business. The same process can be used to fix cracked joints on the resistors or the connector pins in your instrument cluster. I use lead/tin flux core electrical solder and it works just fine. The guy in the video uses liquid flux but he is full time pro. Flux core has the flux inside already and it is easier for us noobs to use.

Give it a try. If its broken you have nothing to lose!

 

Update. it is several years later and my buddies kids sled is still working 100%. If its broken you can't lose. Gently take the cluster apart and re solder each of the big pins on the back of the circuit board. It's easy and it fixes most problems.

 

my 2016 859 Freeride was doing this -my husband soldered the pins on the circuit board like you said and voila ! IT WORKS !!!
thank you so much for posting !
saved me $1100

 

Well I wish I joined this group earlier this winter, our’14 summit lost the fuel/motor temp indicators. Bought a used one and then was told it had to be calibrated by a dealership, is this true?

 

We didn’t but we didn’t change the indicators

 

Due to health issues, I have not been riding or working on sleds this season.

I finally got around to working on my broken gauge this past weekend. IT WORKS AGAIN!!!

My soldering skills are not what they used to be, actually not sure I ever have tackled surface mounted device soldering, but followed the directions on here and just like magic... it works again! I looked over all the pin solder joints before starting and couldn't see any cracks or other issues, but figured I had nothing to lose. I was using a 25 Watt soldering iron and tried to add some solder to each pin (not sure if I really needed to add solder, and I did have to remove excess solder on a few...in hindsight I should have just tried remelting the existing solder, but I tend to "overfix" things). I would hold the soldering iron tip on the pin where it contacts the board for about 6 seconds, by then I starting seeing a shiny ring around the pins on the top side of the black plastic connector body. I don't know if it was flux seeping thru the body or the plastic itself melting, either way I figured the pin was probably hot enough to remelt its solder. I took it for a 30 minute test drive and have working gauges and handwarmers again! A HUGH THANK YOU to jhanratt and everyone else for posting here!!!

 

I have a similar problem on my instrument cluster.
All the functions etc work perfectly, but the illumination of the cluster itself does not work.

Does anyone here have any tips as to what is wrong and how to fix it ?

 

I have a similar problem on my instrument cluster.
All the functions etc work perfectly, but the illumination of the cluster itself does not work.

Does anyone here have any tips as to what is wrong and how to fix it ?

View attachment 2057154

I would look for any obvious bad soldering or corrosion unerd microscope or magnifying glass. If all LEDs are out, it is not the LEDs that are bad, but the power delivery to the LEDs. W/o diagrams or looking the board more closely, cannot give more specific directions. 🙄

 

The odometer LED display on our old 02' Buick Regal went dark a few years ago. I'd love to get in there and have a look at the internals as I'm pretty good with a soldering iron but I'm afraid the entire dash would have to come apart to get to it. I still have the OLM working so no biggie keeping track of oil changes. It could just be the bulb(s) too. Dealer quoted me $700 to fix.. no thanks

 

Could someone with a service manual or wiring diagrams, provide the pinout for the connector on the back of the gauge cluster? In addition to inspecting/fixing solder on pins, I would like to check for power and ground on the harness side. THanks.