I was looking for an upgrade to replace my " X " front shocks. I ride hard so the X dosen't really work for me. What i want to know r the Fox Float X Evol's any good they look BadA**. I heard that u need to put air in them all the time and that it's costly to revalve or do seals on. But if the proformance is that good it doesn't matter the cost i guess but do u need to put air in them all the time (how often?). So what's the PRO's & CON's.
t-o-dbl-d
Fox Float X Evol
Thats what i did on my xp; I would not get air shocks.You can get one heck of a a shock for what u would pay for fox. Call Ian
My 09 nytro rtx se had the fox float X or evols or whatever they were. They were an awesome shock, lots of adjustment, compression, rebound, and then the air pressure.
I never had them rebuilt or anything, but I've rebuilt the regular fox float shocks, and they are expensive...and it seems that once you open them up, they become less reliable. In my experience at least.
I would just buy some good coil overs. Some walker evans or some from Monster Performance.
I never had them rebuilt or anything, but I've rebuilt the regular fox float shocks, and they are expensive...and it seems that once you open them up, they become less reliable. In my experience at least.
I would just buy some good coil overs. Some walker evans or some from Monster Performance.
Well not what i wanted to hear. I was also thinking of XRS front shocks witch r proven. The XRS r somewhere around $1000 for everything. So the floats r not a set it forget it shock. I would still like more feedback on the floats.
I think what you are hearing is old info from the original Floats. The newer Evols are much improved over the original, better seals, better valving and internals. I've never had to add air to any of my Floats, my Evols X's still had the same air pressure in them this fall as they did when I last rode in May. Air temp will affect the air pressure though, you will lose 1 psi for every 10 deg change in temp. So if you adjust the pressure in your warm garage at 70 degs and then ride in 10 deg temps, you will lose 6 psi of air pressure in the shock. So you have to adjust for that temperature difference.
There are several extreme back country riders that use FOX air shocks, Quinlan, Kyle, Brown and Olzenak to mention a few, they aren't complaining about them. If they can drop 100' cornices, I'm sure you and I can not damage them.
Air shocks use air to replace the springs, so you use air to adjust the ride just as you would spin the adjuster on you springs - shock are adjustable - you're supposed to adjust them. Problem is most people have no clue how to adjust them properly, and thus they complain about how crappy a shock is because they don't understand what's wrong or how to correct it.
Here's a guide I put together several years ago to help people understand how to adjust their air shocks, if you don't adjust them properly then they obviously won't perform properly. All pressure has to be off the shock to make adjustments, so elevating the sled or rolling the sled over on one side needs to be done to make adjustments to the air pressure.
Don't listen to rumors, get actual real world experience from people that own them and now how they work.
Evol Chamber controls the bottom out resistance (0-300 psi range) Set 1[sup]st[/sup].
Main Air Chamber adjusts the ride height (sag), roll/pitch stiffness (0- 150 psi range) Set 2[sup]nd[/sup]
Temperature Dependency = 1 psi per 10 deg change
Clickers. Adjust 2 clicks at a time, full in (clockwise) is #1
Compression Red knob
Rebound Blue knob
Tuning suggestion:
As a general rule you want as little rebound damping as possible so that the suspension returns quickly, but still enough rebound damping that the front of the snowmobile does not oscillate upon landing. The front of your snowmobile should return quickly to ride-height and then remain still. If the front suspension continues to oscillate several times after landing, try increasing rebound damping (slower).If the suspension does not oscillate after landing, try decreasing rebound damping (faster).This procedure should allow you to close in (or bracket) on the desired rebound damping setting
Symptoms of Too Much Compression Damping
The front end is harsh over small bumps. Shock seems to stay almost rigid instead of absorbing bumps. Especially noticeable on downhill bumps.
The front end is harsh at high speeds over large or medium bumps. The shock stays too rigid and does not use enough travel to absorb bumps. The shock rarely or never seems to bottom-out, even off the biggest jumps.
Symptoms of Too Little Compression Damping
The shock bottoms-out on medium-sized bumps and at the bottom of deep, smooth gullies, or rising portions of deep, rolling whoops.
At high speed the front end takes medium square-edged bumps smoothly, but bottoms out too easily on larger bumps. Bottoms out too easily off jump and at high speeds over large square-edged bumps.
There are several extreme back country riders that use FOX air shocks, Quinlan, Kyle, Brown and Olzenak to mention a few, they aren't complaining about them. If they can drop 100' cornices, I'm sure you and I can not damage them.
Air shocks use air to replace the springs, so you use air to adjust the ride just as you would spin the adjuster on you springs - shock are adjustable - you're supposed to adjust them. Problem is most people have no clue how to adjust them properly, and thus they complain about how crappy a shock is because they don't understand what's wrong or how to correct it.
Here's a guide I put together several years ago to help people understand how to adjust their air shocks, if you don't adjust them properly then they obviously won't perform properly. All pressure has to be off the shock to make adjustments, so elevating the sled or rolling the sled over on one side needs to be done to make adjustments to the air pressure.
Don't listen to rumors, get actual real world experience from people that own them and now how they work.
Evol Chamber controls the bottom out resistance (0-300 psi range) Set 1[sup]st[/sup].
- If traveling to quick through travel, increase press by 10 psi
- If not using full suspension, decrease press by 10 psi
Main Air Chamber adjusts the ride height (sag), roll/pitch stiffness (0- 150 psi range) Set 2[sup]nd[/sup]
- Adjust by 2 psi to rise or lower spring force Ride height)
Temperature Dependency = 1 psi per 10 deg change
Clickers. Adjust 2 clicks at a time, full in (clockwise) is #1
Compression Red knob
- Clockwise stiffer
- Counter clockwise softer
Rebound Blue knob
- Should return as fast as possible with out bucking
- Clockwise is slower rebound
- Counter clockwise is faster
- Too much rebound dampening will seem harsh, washout, & packing
Tuning suggestion:
As a general rule you want as little rebound damping as possible so that the suspension returns quickly, but still enough rebound damping that the front of the snowmobile does not oscillate upon landing. The front of your snowmobile should return quickly to ride-height and then remain still. If the front suspension continues to oscillate several times after landing, try increasing rebound damping (slower).If the suspension does not oscillate after landing, try decreasing rebound damping (faster).This procedure should allow you to close in (or bracket) on the desired rebound damping setting
Symptoms of Too Much Compression Damping
The front end is harsh over small bumps. Shock seems to stay almost rigid instead of absorbing bumps. Especially noticeable on downhill bumps.
The front end is harsh at high speeds over large or medium bumps. The shock stays too rigid and does not use enough travel to absorb bumps. The shock rarely or never seems to bottom-out, even off the biggest jumps.
Symptoms of Too Little Compression Damping
The shock bottoms-out on medium-sized bumps and at the bottom of deep, smooth gullies, or rising portions of deep, rolling whoops.
At high speed the front end takes medium square-edged bumps smoothly, but bottoms out too easily on larger bumps. Bottoms out too easily off jump and at high speeds over large square-edged bumps.
X2 on Irondog's post, they are a great shock but. By NO means are they a turn key shock, you will ALWAYS be tuning for the trail conditions until you get good base lines, if u don't mind adjusting your entire first season of having them then I would say get them. Lots of guys are giving bad reviews on the standard floats and the Float 2's, X's and R's are completely different shocks.
There are alot of different opinions about Floats or shocks in general, opinions can be useless if shocks or the sled is not set up right... many times we see shocks with custom valving and Wow is all i can say! .....some guys revalve but use the wrong springs, well that will mess everything up ....
your saying your x-shocks are cutting why what are they not doing or not offering you ???
As for Fox Floats there ae sevral options to choose from, before you choose a set of shocks there are many questions i would
ask before setting you up with a set.
Pro's (a) good BASE MODEL price (b)lighter (c )parts are available (solid company been in biz many years)(d)adjustable load range (e)imo i believe that floats,ryde 2.0,walker airs offer strength that new sleds lack in the front suspension
Con's (a)exspensive repair prices/parts (b)relibility (i have repaired/replaced many of the main air chamber seals)
*NOTE* relibility is/can be depent on owner if you take care of them and install guards they will last longer
(c )all air shocks are highly progressive some more than others
Your going to spend as much or more on getting any air shock to work as good as a Custom Axis or Elka or Ohlins
http://steves-online.com/pd-fox-racing-shox-float-airshox-shock-kit.cfm
http://steves-online.com/pd-custom-axis-shocks.cfm
give me a call and we can set you up with something to suit your needs
your saying your x-shocks are cutting why what are they not doing or not offering you ???
As for Fox Floats there ae sevral options to choose from, before you choose a set of shocks there are many questions i would
ask before setting you up with a set.
Pro's (a) good BASE MODEL price (b)lighter (c )parts are available (solid company been in biz many years)(d)adjustable load range (e)imo i believe that floats,ryde 2.0,walker airs offer strength that new sleds lack in the front suspension
Con's (a)exspensive repair prices/parts (b)relibility (i have repaired/replaced many of the main air chamber seals)
*NOTE* relibility is/can be depent on owner if you take care of them and install guards they will last longer
(c )all air shocks are highly progressive some more than others
Your going to spend as much or more on getting any air shock to work as good as a Custom Axis or Elka or Ohlins
http://steves-online.com/pd-fox-racing-shox-float-airshox-shock-kit.cfm
http://steves-online.com/pd-custom-axis-shocks.cfm
give me a call and we can set you up with something to suit your needs
I have evol r's on my summit and love them. i also ran a full zbros set from ian on my last sled and loved them as well. I do love the endless adjustability of the evols.
for the evols call tom at toms snowmobile..top notch guy and top notch service.
for the zbroz call ian at monster as he know how to set them up for your riding style.
for the evols call tom at toms snowmobile..top notch guy and top notch service.
for the zbroz call ian at monster as he know how to set them up for your riding style.
thanks a lot guys for all the info sorry not to reply for so long been busy. i dont mind adjusting to get it dailed in and i beleave they come with guards.
I also road tug hill last week it was awesome to get out
I also road tug hill last week it was awesome to get out
the floats are superior IMHO compared to any coil over set-up. once properly set-up they work flawlessly. a lot of opinions based upon rumours or "he said, she said". they do drop PSI with temp change, but if this is an issue use nitrogen. the pressure change is very minimal.
id have to say reliability is superior to previous coil-over set-ups i have used in the past. make sure you install the guards. once the sleeve has a few dings in it your main seals will get eaten up quick.
i have beat the snot out of both of my sets of evol x's on my race sleds and have been more than happy with the performance. definetly worth the money.
if you need some baselines for set-up shoot me a pm and ill let u know where my pressures are.
- Joel
id have to say reliability is superior to previous coil-over set-ups i have used in the past. make sure you install the guards. once the sleeve has a few dings in it your main seals will get eaten up quick.
i have beat the snot out of both of my sets of evol x's on my race sleds and have been more than happy with the performance. definetly worth the money.
if you need some baselines for set-up shoot me a pm and ill let u know where my pressures are.
- Joel
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
