Go with torsion spring, much better back shift. Some will say compression!

Bob

 

torsion springs are also adjustable

and compression is easier to install

 

Clutch kits on a stock 900 turbo are a waste of money. Stiffer secondary however you chose to get there is about all you can do.

If your looking to maximize the machine make sure the throttle is pulling open 100% a lot of them don't if you watch it on BUDS or a logger you can see it.

Get yourself some DuPont sliders to reduce rolling resistance, and if your serious some oversize rear wheels with an offset axle.

Check ALL your hose connections on the charge side and exhaust side to ensure you have zero boost leaks. Check the plug in the bottom of the intercooler to make sure its not bleeding air off.

You can insulate the airbox from the under hood heat with insulation and tin tape, as well there is an air filter inside the turbo air intake you can remove this for more air. Also efficiency is key if you block off the sides of your hood intake over the intercooler to force the most air through the cooler you will have gains.

Make the system as efficient as possible, coldest intake temps, with zero boost leaks, a stiffer secondary spring, and less rolling resistance will help more than a clutch kit.

 

Just like my 800 Renegade, I was told that unless you add a deeper lug track or a tune with more RPMs, there is no benefit to a clutch kit for a stock 900t.

 

I just press the start button and warm it up a few minutes and ride. All that other stuff mentioned sounds like fun and probably adds to the "fun" factor many are looking for.

I did however put a Dalton secondary spring on both of my 900t's and that took all of about 30 minutes.

 

I just press the start button and warm it up a few minutes and ride. All that other stuff mentioned sounds like fun and probably adds to the "fun" factor many are looking for.

I did however put a Dalton secondary spring on both of my 900t's and that took all of about 30 minutes.

I just press the start button and warm it up a few minutes and ride. All that other stuff mentioned sounds like fun and probably adds to the "fun" factor many are looking for.

I did however put a Dalton secondary spring on both of my 900t's and that took all of about 30 minutes.

Would mind sharing what spring you put in ?

 

I do have the DuPont sliders to install, also ordered it with the 1.5 prestudded track from the factory, and have a big roll of foil tape.

Thanks for the help.

 

I do have the DuPont sliders to install, also ordered it with the 1.5 prestudded track from the factory, and have a big roll of foil tape.

Thanks for the help.

54 lbs 80 lbs
Black with Yellow/Red
DPSS-B/Y/R

That's the spring you want if going torsion.

If going compression a Dalton Red works nice.

 

Go with torsion spring, much better back shift. Some will say compression!

Bob

I assume they kept 2021 stock spring a compression spring the same as a 2020? And switching to a torsion spring would require drilling the helix or replacing the helix with the 2019 version?

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

 

I assume they kept 2021 stock spring a compression spring the same as a 2020? And switching to a torsion spring would require drilling the helix or replacing the helix with the 2019 version?

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

For the sake of 40.00 i would give that Red Dalton a try or a doo Green Green. Before you drill anything. I'm sure you will be pleasantly surprised.

 

Would mind sharing what spring you put in ?

BYR Dalton torsion. It's the one they recommend for the 900t.

 

54 lbs 80 lbs
Black with Yellow/Red
DPSS-B/Y/R

That's the spring you want if going torsion.

If going compression a Dalton Red works nice.

That Red Dalton 205/310 maybe a perfect compromise between the doo Green Green 183/303 and Purple Purple 231/303 or it may delay the shift to much. I may have to try it.

 

That Red Dalton 205/310 maybe a perfect compromise between the doo Green Green 183/303 and Purple Purple 231/303 or it may delay the shift to much. I may have to try it.

I haven't really messed with clutching previously but with my 2021 I got the zrp arms to go with my Whalen tune. Do you think I would benifit from a different compression spring? Does anyone know what spring is in the 2021?

 

That Red Dalton 205/310 maybe a perfect compromise between the doo Green Green 183/303 and Purple Purple 231/303 or it may delay the shift to much. I may have to try it.

It's still my favorite QRS spring almost always the first place I start when clutching a new sled. Shorter than the doo purple too so it avoids binding near full shift.

 

It's still my favorite QRS spring almost always the first place I start when clutching a new sled. Shorter than the doo purple too so it avoids binding near full shift.

How does the secondary spring affect the sled? Would you recommend this right off the bat for the 2021 900T?

 

How does the secondary spring affect the sled? Would you recommend this right off the bat for the 2021 900T?

In 2019 the 900t came with a torsion spring that was prone to breaking.
2020 switched to a compression spring.

I can only assume this is the same spring in the 2021. Yes you would be better to switch out the oem spring with a higher start and finish rate.

A7M suggested Red Dalton and I believe in 2019 he did try it. I currently use the doo Green Green its close to the Dalton Red.

 

stiffer seconday spring slows down up shift

and speeds up downshift

also more hp than oem needs a more spring than oem

to keep the shift similar to oem

 

Clutch kits on a stock 900 turbo are a waste of money. Stiffer secondary however you chose to get there is about all you can do.

If your looking to maximize the machine make sure the throttle is pulling open 100% a lot of them don't if you watch it on BUDS or a logger you can see it.

Get yourself some DuPont sliders to reduce rolling resistance, and if your serious some oversize rear wheels with an offset axle.

Check ALL your hose connections on the charge side and exhaust side to ensure you have zero boost leaks. Check the plug in the bottom of the intercooler to make sure its not bleeding air off.

You can insulate the airbox from the under hood heat with insulation and tin tape, as well there is an air filter inside the turbo air intake you can remove this for more air. Also efficiency is key if you block off the sides of your hood intake over the intercooler to force the most air through the cooler you will have gains.

Make the system as efficient as possible, coldest intake temps, with zero boost leaks, a stiffer secondary spring, and less rolling resistance will help more than a clutch kit.

DuPont's make that much of a difference?

 

DuPont's make that much of a difference?

I have run duponts since they first came out for the Yamaha, and had to be milled out to fit the ski doo rails. I've measured them from new and then with many miles.

They don't enhance performance alone. It's the multiple little changes such as bigger rear wheels, shimming idler wheels away from inner track lugs, bigger diameter drivers, correct track tension etc. added together that will make a slight performance gain.

The duponts help especially when the trails are frozen and offer no lubrication, and do last much longer than oem but if you test a set on glare ice and then compare to oem you will see absolutely 0 gains.

The only time you will see a gain is if the oem hyfax has heated up and creates drag from lack of snow.

 

DuPont's make that much of a difference?

Generally trying for top speed on glare ice roads or plowed strips OEM sliders will almost always get hot and sticky and slow you down. Duponts can run down the middle of the highway in July and not melt. We typically see a 2-3 mph average speed over an OEM slider under the conditions where they would stick. Otherwise no there is no performance gain to be had when running on snow.

I find our trails are very hard and frozen a lot of the time if I didn't have DuPont sliders mine would be sticking all day and I'd have to run scratchers.

 

All my skidoos I just run my sliders to the wear mark and it seems to just stay there as the idlers take up more of the grunt. Sliders seems to stick more usually when they are newer from my experience. DuPonts may not wear much, but like the old saying goes. you can't strengthen one component without weakening another. That said, heat on the track clips can cause your track to come apart internally/prematurely.

Dan

 

All my skidoos I just run my sliders to the wear mark and it seems to just stay there as the idlers take up more of the grunt. Sliders seems to stick more usually when they are newer from my experience. DuPonts may not wear much, but like the old saying goes. you can't strengthen one component without weakening another. That said, heat on the track clips can cause your track to come apart internally/prematurely.

Dan

Wear on the clips is fake news. Lots of people using duponts now and how many worn out tracks? I haven't seen any or heard of any, from duponts anyway.

 

Duponts don't wear clips and they don't allow heat transfer to clips. On glare ice with duponts the track clips get warm nothing more.

Regular hyfax can heat the track clips enough to turn them blue. This is when track deterioration can happen.

 

Duponts don't wear clips and they don't allow heat transfer to clips. On glare ice with duponts the track clips get warm nothing more.
Regular hyfax can heat the track clips enough to turn them blue. This is when track deterioration can happen.

X2 - I've got insane mileage on tracks and Duponts and there is zero damage / wear being done.

 

Nice. I'm one of those guys that have scratchers but rarely use them/ forget about them because my sled has a rad and fan.
I smelled them twice last year, put scratchers down, good to go.

I did just put DuPont's on. Stock were not bad except one spot near front. Found 4 rough wheel bearings, replaced, packed rest with grease. 7000kms, 1.5" x 16 x 154. I run track a bit loose.

Thanks