Blew my 13 800 Etec up a few weekends ago. Looks like the PTO side cylinder cracker around the rave valve area and half way around, taking out the piston. Had around 5000 miles on it, been running like crap all year..bogging, cutting in and out while cruising etc. Rave valves were filthy and sticky as well.

I have the motor stripped down, just have to pull the pistons off the rods and then start putting it back together. I have a new OEM block and dual ring pistons with a top end gasket kit.

Just wondering what some tips are for putting it back together, if anyone has some for me that would be great.

- Do I need to change the wrist pin bearings in the connecting rods? I have new bearings but didnt plan to pull the rods, I guess I havent looked close enough to see what I would need to do to swap them
- Tips for getting the new cylinders over the pistons. Motor is still in the sled, can I just do one piston at a time and pinch the rings and slide the cylinder down over the piston? It looks like I should be able to, obviously wont be able to use my ring compressing tool for it.
- Recommended assembly oil?
- I found something like 22 ft lbs for the cylinder and 17 ft lbs for the head?
- Do I need to bleed oil to the Rave valves or injectors since everything is unhooked?

Anyone happen to have the service manual for a top end rebuild? Or a link to where I can buy the pdf?

Thanks for the help!

Im highly against doing a top end without splitting bottom end to inspect crank and refresh isoflex grease and install new seals. Also inspect everything very well as to find why it went down, something caused it. Check carb boots real good, check y pipe, consider getting injectors tested and cleaned, but regardless on to some of your questions.
-No need to pull rods for piston pin bearing, it slides right out when you remove piston.
-Cylinder is pretty easy to get over pistons, bottom has a taper to make it easier. Make one piston higher then the other. Make sure rings are lined up with locating pins. Squeeze rings with 2 fingers and slowly lower cylinders.
-i like to use mineral oil for assembly but bare minimum use the same oil to run in the sled.

I dont have the torque specs nearby but someone will chime in im sure, if not a quick search will bring it up

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 

Im highly against doing a top end without splitting bottom end to inspect crank and refresh isoflex grease and install new seals. Also inspect everything very well as to find why it went down, something caused it. Check carb boots real good, check y pipe, consider getting injectors tested and cleaned, but regardless on to some of your questions.
-No need to pull rods for piston pin bearing, it slides right out when you remove piston.
-Cylinder is pretty easy to get over pistons, bottom has a taper to make it easier. Make one piston higher then the other. Make sure rings are lined up with locating pins. Squeeze rings with 2 fingers and slowly lower cylinders.
-i like to use mineral oil for assembly but bare minimum use the same oil to run in the sled.

I dont have the torque specs nearby but someone will chime in im sure, if not a quick search will bring it up

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Thanks!

I was planning to remove the engine and do a full rebuild but got a buddy waiting for me to get it fixed since I got a new sled. Bottom end seems nice and smooth with no play, no leaks anywhere etc. I thought I read somewhere you can change the isoflex grease without removing the crank.

I think it blew up due to a faulty temp sensor. It kept throwing codes and killing power thinking the sled was hot when it was just off warm up. I took it down the trail for about half a mile without the sensor in the exhaust, and that's when she died. I was cruising about 50, and it just slowly died over maybe 300 yards. Fired back up after 5 minutes and it was pulling 7900 and lifting the skis 3 ft off the ground. Rode about 3 more miles trying to get back to the cabin and then she locked up on me.

Going to get it checked out at the dealer when its back together to make sure everything is working as intended.

 

Your so called torque specs are out to lunch....

You definitely need a manual.

Head 22ftlbs in sequence refer to manual
Cylinder 37ftlbs

Measure axial play (side to side play of rod on bigend bearing)(with a feeler guage) between washer and the big end rod on the crank. This can be done without splitting the case. Max is 0.047" if it's near that or more definitely need a remanufactured/rebuilt crank.

Buy or find a manual.

Yes sumerization feature is great to bleed the lines. Coat with 2 stroke oil.

Good luck

 

Best tip I have is a BRP shortblock. 2nd best is OEM pistons. 3rd best is OEM gaskets.

 

Best tip I have is a BRP shortblock. 2nd best is OEM pistons. 3rd best is OEM gaskets.

If you have the funds and not well versed in building motors and or have the tools. This is the best option.

 

If you have the funds and not well versed in building motors and or have the tools. This is the best option.

You are completely right and the OP wasn't asking to state the obvious. My bad. Edit: And it's tough enough to be doing an in sled rebuild that you just can't afford to have smart A comments psyc you out.

 

https://brpmanuals.com/skidoo-manual.htm

just ordered my topend kit today and will begin the rebuild soon. '10 800R

 

Best tip I have is a BRP shortblock. 2nd best is OEM pistons. 3rd best is OEM gaskets.

Never rebuilt an engine before so I"m trying to understand.

Does this mean you get a crankcase and crankshaft from BRP and then install your own rebuilt top end onto it? or at least the gist of it.

 

Never rebuilt an engine before so I"m trying to understand.

Does this mean you get a crankcase and crankshaft from BRP and then install your own rebuilt top end onto it? or at least the gist of it.

No a shortblock is basically a new motor minus head and all the bolt on stuff

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 

Never rebuilt an engine before so I"m trying to understand.

Does this mean you get a crankcase and crankshaft from BRP and then install your own rebuilt top end onto it? or at least the gist of it.

My mistake, I was referring to a rebuilt engine. Get the engine out, remove the bolt-on stuff and send it to your BRP dealer as a core. They will take care of shipping and return a rebuilt engine.

 

Have the injectors sent out to be cleaned and flow tested.

 

Following!@ Really appreciate all your knowledge on this, contemplating to just have it done or do it myself. I take apart and put together people for a living and am thinking I may just be better off paying someone that does this every day to do it right the first time? Anyone?