[iam_canadian22]

Blew my 13 800 Etec up a few weekends ago. Looks like the PTO side cylinder cracker around the rave valve area and half way around, taking out the piston. Had around 5000 miles on it, been running like crap all year..bogging, cutting in and out while cruising etc. Rave valves were filthy and sticky as well.

I have the motor stripped down, just have to pull the pistons off the rods and then start putting it back together. I have a new OEM block and dual ring pistons with a top end gasket kit.

Just wondering what some tips are for putting it back together, if anyone has some for me that would be great.

- Do I need to change the wrist pin bearings in the connecting rods? I have new bearings but didnt plan to pull the rods, I guess I havent looked close enough to see what I would need to do to swap them
- Tips for getting the new cylinders over the pistons. Motor is still in the sled, can I just do one piston at a time and pinch the rings and slide the cylinder down over the piston? It looks like I should be able to, obviously wont be able to use my ring compressing tool for it.
- Recommended assembly oil?
- I found something like 22 ft lbs for the cylinder and 17 ft lbs for the head?
- Do I need to bleed oil to the Rave valves or injectors since everything is unhooked?

Anyone happen to have the service manual for a top end rebuild? Or a link to where I can buy the pdf?

Thanks for the help!

Im highly against doing a top end without splitting bottom end to inspect crank and refresh isoflex grease and install new seals. Also inspect everything very well as to find why it went down, something caused it. Check carb boots real good, check y pipe, consider getting injectors tested and cleaned, but regardless on to some of your questions.
-No need to pull rods for piston pin bearing, it slides right out when you remove piston.
-Cylinder is pretty easy to get over pistons, bottom has a taper to make it easier. Make one piston higher then the other. Make sure rings are lined up with locating pins. Squeeze rings with 2 fingers and slowly lower cylinders.
-i like to use mineral oil for assembly but bare minimum use the same oil to run in the sled.

I dont have the torque specs nearby but someone will chime in im sure, if not a quick search will bring it up

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

 

[iam_canadian22]

Never rebuilt an engine before so I"m trying to understand.

Does this mean you get a crankcase and crankshaft from BRP and then install your own rebuilt top end onto it? or at least the gist of it.

No a shortblock is basically a new motor minus head and all the bolt on stuff

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk