[bar549]

Chain Case Chain Tension Setting

When I had the chain case apart, I decided to set the chain tension with the cover off to see how tight the chain was set per the manual. Set the tension finger tight, like the manual suggests and tighten the retaining nut. When doing so, the chain was strung like a banjo string. I realize finger tight varies from person to person, some have stronger fingers than others. I always backed mine off some from finger tight, because I felt it was just to tight. I backed my finger tight setting off by a 1/4 turn (mark your adjusting screw, so you know how much you have backed it off), I personally feel this is a very good setting. The finger tight setting in the manual is just to tight for my liking and backing it off by a 1/4 turn does not cause any slack, but is not as tight. Keep in mind when tightening the retaining nut to hold the adjusting screw with a set of pliers and to keep it from moving and changing your adjustment.

Marked adjusting screw.

 

[600ace]

My 16 needed the gear change @ 8000 miles but the 17 has over 20000 on the original and still OK , must have changed the hardening process.

 

[robertca]

Good information about the reverse gear wear, thanks for this.

A side note, the head of the adjusting screw can be held with the proper sized allen key if you don't want to hold it with a pair of pliers.

 

[440x]

A side note, the head of the adjusting screw can be held with the proper sized allen key if you don't want to hold it with a pair of pliers.

5mm

 

[bar549]

Mine does not have a spot for a 5mm Allen, it's solid.

Bob

 

[4THEKIGS]

Can you point out to me which is the coupler gear?

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[440x]

Mine does not have a spot for a 5mm Allen, it's solid.

Bob

Really?! That's strange they would change that. My 08/09/13/16 had it. Not 900's though, but shouldn't be different than the 1200 in that area.

 

[Saber]

My 16 needed the gear change @ 8000 miles but the 17 has over 20000 on the original and still OK , must have changed the hardening process.

Not every sled fails to shift in that 5k to 10k range. Your a lucky one.

The reverse was changed for the G4's. Similar in design but new part numbers are listed. I do not know what the specific changes are but there are some indications they were the right ones. Here is a fact. Both of Jim Jamison's G4 sleds went the distance with no issue. one of his riding buddies went 13k miles with no issues. All three of these people had every reverse wear out on their approximately 19 1200's they rode before the G4.

Let us know how the new chain case oil works out for you.

 

[Xcrtom]

Bob, the Lucas product, is it sold at auto parts stores or is it a machining product?

 

[fz58317]

Can you point out to me which is the coupler gear?

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Post #440, It's like a $55 part, order one before you even open the case cause the dealer wont have it in stock, just replace it when you start having reverse issues, every 4-10,000 miles on average, I get the putting chamfers on the gear and mating gear and all but it will still do the same thing over time, only sooner than if you just replaced it, been there, done that, cheap part and the same if not less work to just replace it, Just consider it a wear item like any other part on the sled, now adding the gear lube additive may work great, I have not tried that but do change my chaincase oil every 2000 miles.

 

[SKIDOOCHRIS]

brp calls the splined shaft a coupler or Connecting Shaft on gen4

and the above gear slides on coupler/shaft

 

[bar549]

Bob, the Lucas product, is it sold at auto parts stores or is it a machining product?

Yes, sold at most auto parts stores including Walmart.

Bob

 

[bar549]

Can you point out to me which is the coupler gear?

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Bob

 

[4THEKIGS]

Thanks

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[SKIDOOCHRIS]

the splined shaft drives the machine

and the wear marks are from running in forward

so, the gear must slide out of the warn grove to move for reverse to work

have you heard about indexing the gears

what this does is move the gear to a different spot on the shaft

if you look at the wear pattern on the shaft

you will see the gear makes a special staggered pattern

the trick is to move the gear so its wearing a different spot on the shaft

again the best fix is a new coupler/shaft

both e-reverse and manual reverse use the same gears

 

[900mac]

Why not index the gears? Unless the replacement parts are better quality?

 

[fz58317]

I did index it the 1st go around, it worked but started to act up again after 1500 miles or so, the best way is to just replace it and forget about it for a long time, costs less than 2 new idler wheels. Like said above its the result of the sled going forward not using reverse to much.

 

[bar549]

I did index it the 1st go around, it worked but started to act up again after 1500 miles or so, the best way is to just replace it and forget about it for a long time, costs less than 2 new idler wheels. Like said above its the result of the sled going forward not using reverse to much.

Did you grind the spline shaft or just index the gears?

Many have done this repair with great success.

Bob

 

[bar549]

I know I have been promising Clutch Videos, well in the next 2 weeks I will have the videos as you requested. It just takes time! There will be 6 Episodes (2 for the Edrive and 2 for the QRS Short Shaft).

Also will have a couple 900T videos.

Stay tuned!

Bob

 

[bar549]

VIDEOS are ready, 6 total. This is my first attempt at this and I know there are some miss spoken items, but I am sure you guys will know what I mean. I hope these videos help you and answer questions you may have. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask me here. Feel free to comment here also, be kind as I am not a professional at the video game. LOL! Please LIKE the videos if they where helpful.

Bob

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