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zx chassis - SC10 III skid mount holes distance apart

2578 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  freddy2
I have a 2001 MXZ X 800 that has had a 2002 SC10 III X skid installed. When I installed it, I drilled new holes 24 1/8" apart (the skid is out now, and I got a VERY accurate measurement for once) between the centres. I measured it because the coupler blocks of my new SC10 III skid, even with HD torsions, is not in the centre unladen and when I sit on it it is pressed against the rear stops (not in the middle as its supposed to be).

So, does anyone have a zx (non-tilt tunnel, or non zx-x chassis) chassis with the skid removed right now? If so, can you take this measurement from inside the tunnel? Or if someone has done it before, and has written it down, it would be appreciated. It should be the same as mine, as when I drilled the holes I tried to be pretty careful but for some reason don't think I measured from inside the tunnel. But if its not, that may explain why even with HD torsions on max preload, I can't get the coupler blocks in between the stops, as was the case with STOCK springs on the original SC10 II.

Thanks in advance.
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The skid is out of my '02 adrenaline right now so I checked the 24 1/8. You have the correct center distance for the mounting holes. Let me know if you want any other dimensions.
The center to center distance on the skid while out of the sled is not correct.....the rear skid is preloaded a little bit once installed. I measured the difference in the two tunnels at the time I did mine and slid the brackets forward along the running boards about 5/8"...which made the hole centers about 1/2" closer center to center. Sadly I don't have that number written down. Without the correct hole to hole spacing the block will NEVER get to where it needs to....the mechanics of the suspenson won't allow it.

With no weight on the sled the coupling block should be against the front stop quite firmly. With you sitting on it the block should be in the middle space.....and this is exactly how mine turned out.

good luck,
The center to center distance on the skid while out of the sled is not correct.....
I took the 24 1/8" measurement between hole centers off the inside of the tunnel and NOT from arm to arm on the skid since it's on the floor in pieces! Again, let me know if you need some sanity check dimensions on brackets etc. to help get yours right.
Thanks for the quick responses guys, my first post didn't receive any, and I really needed to know this as DOOBEE said as a sanity check, or at least to keep my sanity. I've been so frustrated by that blasted coupler block position.....I'm now installing full-race 440 torsion springs!! Probably too stiff, but I'm obsessed at this point.

DOOBEE measured his the same way I did, not the skid itself, but the inside of the tunnel from c-c of the mounting holes (or front-front or back-back of the mounting holes - same thing). I am SO glad that you got the same measurement, I just about jumped out of my seat when I read it. It was the first truly acurate measurement I took, and was my great opportunity to put the issue to bed in my mind. That's been bugging me for some time, I added the HD springs, then the 440 springs (not installed yet), and each spring is about $67 CDN N/I shipping or tax, and I was getting the feeling that I might be burning my money trying to fix a problem that all along was simply inaccurate mounting measurements from a couple years ago. Glad to know I didn't waste a pile of money, and scalp skin, for nothing. If these 440 springs don't do it (I'm 240 pounds dry....geez maybe 250 or more suited up) I'll simply forget about it, I won't be double-guessing my hole locations anyway.

Unfortunately, I'm losing weight at a steady pace now, and should be 200 pounds by May..........doh!
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Hey freddy2, been awhile, maybe you have already done this but have you checked or had your shock rebuilt or revalved to fit you better? I know they aren't suppose take the place of the spring but they do provide some positive extension force from the piston. One thing I always wanted to try but didn't was to buy a polaris suspension and see how that would work.
Hey mxzwild, yes I was away for quite awhile, got carried away with other things and time flies.

Actually I just had both skid shocks rebuilt/charged and valved to cross country racing specs to match my 2002 440 MXZ X piggybacks. The revalved x package skid shocks should work well with the 2002 440 racing torsions and centre spring. After revalving the shocks, I thought that may help, but the coupler blocks were in the same places they were before.

I think the new FAST M12 with the air shock written about in the latest Snow Sports, might be your ticket if you're getting a new skid. Well, according to Gerard Karpik anyway.
I have the same problem as you are talking about with my 02 700 adrenilin.blocks won't sit in the middle.taking a suggestion from my best friend who owns a Honda/Yamaha shop and did sell Doo but gave it up because of outrageous pressure to over buy........he said to super clean all the rods that go thru the torsion arms till they were spotless and then take emery cloth to them and try and take a little metal off too. everybody greases them and they pack and stick preventing the suspension to move freely like it was when new.I went thru all the rods and arms and it did help alot.just thought I would throw this at you now as you have your skid out and it would be a good time to have at it.and I would never put a M-10 or 12 on a zx or a rev even if I got it for nothing.......
Yea, I had been away from the forum all summer myself. I don't have my 99 mxz anymore, I bought a 05 gtx 500ss in April of 05 that a guy traded in. Because of the crappy winter in Vermont last season I only put around 160 miles on so I still don't really know how it rides or handles. When I had my mxz is when I had thought about getting a polaris rear skid.

You probably know this as well but if you have the front limiter strap to tight so that when you set the back of the sled down and the rear idlers touch first, this will cause the blocks to hit the back of the coupler window. You want it so the front of the skid contact at least at the same time or better to have it before the rear idlers do. If you need more bite you can get more aggressive skis or wear bars.
AT LAST!!! With 2002 440 torsions at max pre-load, I finally got the coupler block in the centre with me seated, although it'll likely ride stiff as hell. It may be fine at 3rd cam position too.

But a guy shouldn't have to go through all that just to get the suspension to sit like the manufacturer says it should with the stock springs. And I'm 'only' 235 pounds, not 300 or something.
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