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Here are a few pics of the 500SS XP TNT with 16 X 137 X 1.75 track with quite a few mods to get it down to 450 lbs full wet ready to ride!!

The pair of Aux Driving lights weigh about 6 oz the pair and each has 35 watt bulb.
The LED tailight came from Dennis Kirk dirt catlog for about $35 and weighs 3 oz including the carbon fiber mounting plate I mAde that velcros onto the seat. I recovered the seat and its about 2" taller and firmer.

Good Luck
 

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Few more pics

Just above the sec is the horizontal brace between the jackshaft tower and the front shock tower. Also filled the left rear motor mount from the bottom solid full of Devcon aluminum epoxy. Also just above the brace is the carbon fiber front air box, it has through the hood intake plus one of the snorkels from the stock front air box for inside air intake.
 

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The very well vented hood and carbon fiber front air box that weighs about 8 oz

The PCS gauge with a couple of the face options. Its touch screen and by touching any gauge face or readout box a menu comes up and you can change to any other readout you want. Currently the gauge can read out
RPM's, MPH, Left and Right EGT's, Pipe Belly EGT, Intake Air temp, Throttle position in %, Coolant Temp and O2 Air/fuel Ratio and Fuel level Gauge, (E-Man and I haven't got that to work with the stock fuel pickup yet). It can Data Log all these readings but currently only way to read them is by downloading to the lap top, think their is optional software upgrade so it can be done on the gauge. Many other options available, 4 axis accelerometer, and GPS etc.
 

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Thanks!!

Some of the mods

Straightline Pipe/Can, about 11 lbs, very nice sound and not obnoxious

Lite primary clutch, 4 lbs less tha TRA III, WOW -Throttlle response, track response, night and day difference between it and the TRA, 55 mph track speed on the flat at 10,000 ft in CO in 20 inch of fresh from the night before

Plastic, foam, sway bar, about 8 lbs

Oil injection full tank and pump and lines, 10 lbs

OK got over 30 lbs off for $150 for a used clutch, think it was about $500 for pipe/can, this was how it started, I got pretty excited and inspired with this much weight off the front end without really doing anything

Aftermarket Head I recut to about 12.5 to 1

Boyesson power reeds (regular old two stage petals)

Removed the front heat exchanger and filled holes with an aluminum plate, 3 lbs loss counting coolant, rerouted hoses and used 1" thin wall aluminum tubes to replace couple feet of rubber hose, coolant temp stays right at 127 degrees except on hard frozen trail then would go to 145 to 150 for short periods

The only other thing that could lose a fair amount of weight would be a lighter gas tank, because of EPA vapor emissions regs the XP tanks are double wall and way 14 lbs empty!! An aluminum tank with a 50 thou wall of 11 gals would only weigh about 7 or 8 lbs.

My porting, fairly mild, only 195 degree exhaust, 800's and 600SDI 200 or over, did lots of work in aux exhaust ports though and intake side, transfers came perfect, best I have ever seen in a sleeved cylinder

Eliminating the front air box was very difficult, carbon air box and the aluminum frame to hold the nut plates for the cowling

Used Floats on the skis for a Yami app 1/2" shorter than doo to drop the front end so could get flatter angle of attack on skid

Rear skid 33lbs!!!!!!! Two Floats with the rear being a takeoff on a Yami rear arm, about the same thing that Timbersled did, built the rear arm last winter, used a TI front arm from Alternative Impact, incredible piece, have a pair of those tiny wheels for the rail tips between the rails up by the front shock

Slydog PowderHound Skis, worked awesome

Bumper off a XP summit 146 and shortened about 4"

Aux Driving lights from Pep Boys auto, 6 oz for the pair and only about $25 with 35 watt bulbs

LED tailight from Dennis Kirk dirt bike catalog, about $35 and only 3 oz with the carbon fiber mounting plate I made that attachs to the seat with velcro

Swapped the wide front end with a guy with a Summit X

One particluar day at 10000 ft in Colorado a Cat 800 injected used 8 to 9 gallons, 800R with aftermarket head 4 gallons, and mine still jetted so rich in mid that it fowled plugs in a couple days used 5.3 gallons, when its completely dialed should be pretty easy on gas and I don't
think I'll ever need to carry a can with it

It has the same flotation on the track as a 154X but because the front end is about 50 lbs lighter than the 800 and has same size skis that end float a bunch better, the biggest improvement for the sled would be if Camo made a 16 X 137 X 2 track

The goal was to build the ultimate crossover sled that could do everything well and even excell over a lot of stock sleds because of light weight and power to weight ratio, estimated Hp would be conservative 115, next project is to fix my Land & Sea dyno!!!

Its about 80 lbs lighter than a stock 163 X and it makes my wifes 550 rev feel like its made out of lead, think I have her convinced to let me build her one of these with just the basics, head, pipe, tunnel extension and rail extensions, track and summit front end swap and she is demanding electric start

I ran 130/290 spring in the pirmary and 1 heavy washer with 1 to 3 light washers at 10 to 12K ft in CO, secondary Dalton 42/38 helix with doo Green spring (grind off hook) for HPV sec, rate 180/303, clutching worked near perfect, all a total best guess, one light washer was overevving at 8100 to 8300 at 10000 ft, gearing 18/45, next year will try to get an Micro Belmont to make an aluminum 49 for the bottom

Also made a 2mm reducer bushing for the stinger in the pipe and tried it the last day, seemed to work, anyhow sled climbed with the 800's that day although we never found anything big enough that couldn't be climbed. Last time I had this much was years ago when I put a 617 in my Phazer but the weight went up to 445 lbs dry so not even close to this!!!
 

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Mr. LRD, what is the official Dry Weight of this wild ride - I don't see it mentioned anywhere? Are you sure I can't convince you to add Electric Start?
 

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LRD, Really cool to finally see some pictures of that...it is really cool. Do u have a website for that guage pod thing of yours? Cheers Shawn
 

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hopefully your next project will be light weighting and supercharging the new four stroke doo and makeing it easy on me to do one
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LRD, Really cool to finally see some pictures of that...it is really cool. Do u have a website for that guage pod thing of yours? Cheers Shawn
Here is a link to PCS http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/content-21.html
The gauge is E-Mans deal, he is a dealer for them. He originally had this gauge on his twin tirbo 170+ MPH mustang street legal drag car. The company wants to expand beyond cars into sleds and personal watercraft. E-man and I have been test dummies for the gauge to make it work in the elements.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mr. LRD, what is the official Dry Weight of this wild ride - I don't see it mentioned anywhere? Are you sure I can't convince you to add Electric Start?
Hey Hey, dry weight should be around 370 lbs, 360 would match the lightest sled I ever owned back in the 70's, a Scorpion 440 Sting but the T has a track, suspension, reliable 115 HP, and on and on. If I do another one of these for Mrs LRD it will have electric start thanks to you and E-man. She never lets up on not having electric start anymore !!!!!

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Here is a link to PCS http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/content-21.html
The gauge is E-Mans deal, he is a dealer for them. He originally had this gauge on his twin tirbo 170+ MPH mustang street legal drag car. The company wants to expand beyond cars into sleds and personal watercraft. E-man and I have been test dummies for the gauge to make it work in the elements.

Good Luck
How did it hold up in the cold and powder? That thing is really neat. Did you pull out your original gage pod?

Thanks
Shawn
 

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Here are a few pics of the 500SS XP TNT with 16 X 137 X 1.75 track with quite a few mods to get it down to 450 lbs full wet ready to ride!!

The pair of Aux Driving lights weigh about 6 oz the pair and each has 35 watt bulb.
The LED tailight came from Dennis Kirk dirt catlog for about $35 and weighs 3 oz including the carbon fiber mounting plate I mAde that velcros onto the seat. I recovered the seat and its about 2" taller and firmer.

Good Luck
LRD, who stuffed and recovered your seat? I'm curious if I could get this locally done where I live or if you used some kind of specialty shop?
 

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LRD all I can say is WOW! these guys need to hire you as product innovation representative. I love the stuff you come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How did it hold up in the cold and powder? That thing is really neat. Did you pull out your original gage pod?

Thanks
Shawn
The only mishaps in the mtns and deep powder is I broke the kill switch off, $55 later and it was fixed next morning and I rotated it to the rear and down so it shouldn't happen again. Also ripped a small hole in the screening on the left side panel. Everything worked awesome other than it being a bit rich and taking so much time to get the carbs out to do needle and mixture screw adjustments wasn't able to completely dial it in on the bottom and mid. It still ran great just wasn't the easiest to start. By the last day if I held the throttle wide open it would generally start one pull. Its difficult to test and tune when with a group as you don't want to hold anybody up so I'd decide during the day what change to do and then when we got back to the motel I'd work on it on the trailer and do one change and ride it all the next day and go through the same thing. Its supposed to snow this weekend so I hope to get out on a lake here and finish dialing it in. The neat thing about the gauge is it has throttle position sensor so I can look at my egt's and see at 20% throttle maybe its only 850 degrees so that tells you real quick what circuit is off.

Good Luck
 

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The only mishaps in the mtns and deep powder is I broke the kill switch off, $55 later and it was fixed next morning and I rotated it to the rear and down so it shouldn't happen again. Also ripped a small hole in the screening on the left side panel. Everything worked awesome other than it being a bit rich and taking so much time to get the carbs out to do needle and mixture screw adjustments wasn't able to completely dial it in on the bottom and mid. It still ran great just wasn't the easiest to start. By the last day if I held the throttle wide open it would generally start one pull. Its difficult to test and tune when with a group as you don't want to hold anybody up so I'd decide during the day what change to do and then when we got back to the motel I'd work on it on the trailer and do one change and ride it all the next day and go through the same thing. Its supposed to snow this weekend so I hope to get out on a lake here and finish dialing it in. The neat thing about the gauge is it has throttle position sensor so I can look at my egt's and see at 20% throttle maybe its only 850 degrees so that tells you real quick what circuit is off.

Good Luck
That is a interesting concept that I have not thought about from a tuning perspective. Did you pull out the stock guage pod? Or is it needed for the PCS to work?

Thanks
Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LRD, who stuffed and recovered your seat? I'm curious if I could get this locally done where I live or if you used some kind of specialty shop?
I bought a singer heavy duty sewing machine a few years ago that can sew threw about 5 layers of leather. Have sewed stuff like this for years. I found some white closed cell foam at an upholstery shop that is very light and from a distance looks like white poly insulation board but is instead closed cell and very rigid. I then took the stock foam off the seat base and cut and shaped and glued up layers of the white foam so it would fit the seat base and glued it on with Goop adhesive. Next step was cutting and shaping the bottom of the stock foam to fit on top of about 3 to 4" pf the white foam. When all done the seat is about 1.5 to 2" talller. Next the really hard part was taking apart the black and yellow seat cover and using the yellow as patterns for cutting new black pieces out of snowmobile material and making them taller as the seat was now taller. Even harder was sewing this all together so it fit the seat. Not a perfect job but pretty good considering all the changes. I do remember some guys saying they had their seats redone in black by upholstery shops, I'd try one that does boats and canvas.

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LRD
I love your sleds. Really cool.
But what Lite primary fits the 500ss? I tought the lite only fits the small crank-cone.
I picked up a used one off a 600 HO snowhawk last spring with the idea that I wouldn't have to recut the taper in the clutch. Still had to recut the taper about an 1/8" deeper even after slotting the motor mounts 1/4" though. I have recut clutch tapers a few times over the years on my lathe, just have to really pay attention to what your doing and go slow and measure often.

Good Luck
 

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Nice , what do you think about using the 09 everest summit 146 as a base to make a replica ( somewhat ) . It looks like they will bring it over here ( sweden ).
How will the sc-5m work on trail compared to the sc-5 , and what do you think of tip-up rails like they got on the Nytro XTX?
 
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