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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have all seen the expensive bolt ons that certainly are an improvement over stock but I'm calling out all the DIY cheap guys and gals out there that get only 500 or 1000 bucks a year from the spouse to mod. I'm talking to the true creative in the group.

I know there are some diy xp posts but I wanted to breathe some new life into it.

Mine is a 13 154 with custom hood, gauge pod, intake, and a few bolt ons of course.

Post pictures, how to, what not to do, tools needed, what held up well and what didnt. Feel free to post the bolt ons as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Venting is covered from the backside with petscreen from Menards. I used hot glue to hold it in a few spots and then shoe goo adhesive...was the best I've found and have done 3 or 4 sleds with this method and haven't had a single issue with it letting go
Cut the aluminum hood insert at the local metal shop from the thinnest aluminum they had. Took a piece of quarter thick and cut it out on the mill for the gauge pod. Covered it all with petscreen as the hole puncher wouldn't go smaller than three eighths and it was letting snow in
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clutch cover was done before I bought the sled but it's got 800 miles on the original belt...last xm blew a belt with stock cover around 700 miles so we will see.
Intake comes from pvc off the lower airvox to a k and n with pantyhose as a prefilter . Under the hood stays cold as I put in a piece of aluminum flashing that blocks all the exhaust heat and clutch heat.
 

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Yup shoe goo is the way to go. glue all my screens with it and even my dash that cracked. Holds up really well and dries clear so looks good too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mine are set up skinny but had read to space them even so the bushing doesn't wear out premature... thought gman posted it? Either way thanks for the input sir!
 

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Slednuck
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I prefer centering the ski with poo spacers costs about 8 bucks. Better ski rubber wear than being offset, ski tracks nicer, and 90% cheaper than the munster bushing savers.

I also use about $4 of black aluminum pet screen and shoe goo to make pre-filters instead of the $140 BRP kit that I smash the mouth out of every season and that costs $100 to replace the one piece.
 

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Kill switch relocate is easy find a nipple that slides into the steering post and Teflon tape it tap it in with a hammer and install a bushing on the the end so the kill switch can be attached to it lol

Also can relocate the rear scissor arm back 3/4" to help keep the skis down

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Kill switch relocate is easy find a nipple that slides into the steering post and Teflon tape it tap it in with a hammer and install a bushing on the the end so the kill switch can be attached to it lol

Also can relocate the rear scissor arm back 3/4" to help keep the skis down

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Is moving the scissor back 3/4 more effective than tightening the limiter strap up a notch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just turned my killswitch upside down and havent had issues until just the other day...these switches arent sealed and the snow melted and froze it open....I like the relocate idea mentioned above I have seen it before but never did it. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Im sure Ill get some flak for this, but I bought the sled with a full skid plate (AKA snow holder) so instead of buying or trading I put the ole ******* thinking cap on and cut the full down while on the sled to about the shape of the xtreme...no more snow held by the Aarms.

Trying to sell them is a nightmare as shipping costs more than you can get for them...

BTW I have another full skidplate if someone local wants it in NW iowa....
 

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Slednuck
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Im sure Ill get some flak for this, but I bought the sled with a full skid plate (AKA snow holder) so instead of buying or trading I put the ole ******* thinking cap on and cut the full down while on the sled to about the shape of the xtreme...no more snow held by the Aarms.

Trying to sell them is a nightmare as shipping costs more than you can get for them...

BTW I have another full skidplate if someone local wants it in NW iowa....
I did that with an old machine I had.

For the kill switch just put some small O-rings around it and it becomes a momentary switch. No more accidental shutdowns with your chest.

Trying to fit an XP skid plate on my XM right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With ya on the o rings. I've heard of that never tried it. Think I would do that if I didn't want to empty the bars. Anyone with short arms narrow their bars? I'm like a t rex...large chest short arms...thought about taking a little off both sides.
 

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Is moving the scissor back 3/4 more effective than tightening the limiter strap up a notch?
It helps keeping the skis down a little for sure and I keep it in hole 3 (stock setting) on the limiter strap to allow the shock to have more rebound. I think the sled handles better this way rather than tightening limiter and it does help with the ski lift but I wouldn't say it's more effective for keeping the skis down, it can still pop up if you want it to. But it was easy to do so tried it. Have to try it yourself to see I suppose.

Also on another note was thinking about trenching I always adjusted my track so it's loose just to the point it doesn't ratchet because supposedly it's less restricting and allows more power for track spin? But now I'm thinking maybe it's too loose that the track dog legs even more in a climb and chews till your stuck? Going out this coming weekend I've tightened up the track going to see how it does from the last ride. Otherwise powder wedges in the future.

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My XM mods cost money, so they are really not the point of the thread I suppose. The only "free" thing he did was completely remove the plastic from the clutch guard. A properly folded spare belt fits in that tiny trunk at the rear of the seat.
 
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