Any reputable shock shop can revalve all 4 of your shocks for around $200...
and it is well worth having someone with experiance do it..........Do you really want to do it your self and end up doing it 2 or 3 times to get it right and waste an entire day or more?
If you must attempt to do it yourself.........(I am that way) I would suggest looking at the compresion stack.......(when you take the nut off, first is the REBOUND stack, then the PISTON, then the COMPRESION stack, then the back-up washer.)
There will be a number of identicle shims stacked up next to the piston.........say there are 5 of them..........measure the thickness and diameter of them..........if you added 5 more, the effective dampening would in theory DOUBLE.............
After that initial stack of large shims, there will be a small "spacer shim" then comes another stack of identicle shims........then another spacer shim.......
being you are a novice tunner, I would suggest playing with the number of large shims in the two stacks...............adding shims makes it stiffer................
the stack closest to the piston is for slow shock speed, and the second stack effects HIGH shock speed..........the slow speed stack will also effect the high speed dampening but the high speed stack will not effect slow speed dampening...
I have taken apart many shocks.........many that have been valved by other shops..........every shop does things a little differently........but after looking at what they did, and comparing it to other set-ups, you can tell what they were trying to acomplish..............
By far the hardest part about doing shocks is the BLEEDING and reassembly..........if you don't get it right, you end up having a mushy shock cause air is traped inside.........or if you get the IFP wrong, you can hydro-lock your shock before it reaches full travel, or you can get the IFP to DEEP and then you end up with a SERIOUS AIR SPRING effect when the shock nears full travel...
Like i said at first...........have someone do it for you, or at the very least, have someone who has done it before help you.
There are MANY MANY methods of doing shocks, and NONE are wrong or right. I beleive the manuals and instructions to be FAR to simplified, and if you follow them you will end up with a shock that has air in it........air is a shocks enemy, and can make a $3000 shock perform like a $20 trailer shock.......on the other hand, a well put together $100 shock can perform much like the $3000 shock........
shock oil is another option fora simple fix.........3Wt is standard.........many people rebuild with 5wt, and it stiffens them up just right...........???
For the $200, have someone do it for you.
and it is well worth having someone with experiance do it..........Do you really want to do it your self and end up doing it 2 or 3 times to get it right and waste an entire day or more?
If you must attempt to do it yourself.........(I am that way) I would suggest looking at the compresion stack.......(when you take the nut off, first is the REBOUND stack, then the PISTON, then the COMPRESION stack, then the back-up washer.)
There will be a number of identicle shims stacked up next to the piston.........say there are 5 of them..........measure the thickness and diameter of them..........if you added 5 more, the effective dampening would in theory DOUBLE.............
After that initial stack of large shims, there will be a small "spacer shim" then comes another stack of identicle shims........then another spacer shim.......
being you are a novice tunner, I would suggest playing with the number of large shims in the two stacks...............adding shims makes it stiffer................
the stack closest to the piston is for slow shock speed, and the second stack effects HIGH shock speed..........the slow speed stack will also effect the high speed dampening but the high speed stack will not effect slow speed dampening...
I have taken apart many shocks.........many that have been valved by other shops..........every shop does things a little differently........but after looking at what they did, and comparing it to other set-ups, you can tell what they were trying to acomplish..............
By far the hardest part about doing shocks is the BLEEDING and reassembly..........if you don't get it right, you end up having a mushy shock cause air is traped inside.........or if you get the IFP wrong, you can hydro-lock your shock before it reaches full travel, or you can get the IFP to DEEP and then you end up with a SERIOUS AIR SPRING effect when the shock nears full travel...
Like i said at first...........have someone do it for you, or at the very least, have someone who has done it before help you.
There are MANY MANY methods of doing shocks, and NONE are wrong or right. I beleive the manuals and instructions to be FAR to simplified, and if you follow them you will end up with a shock that has air in it........air is a shocks enemy, and can make a $3000 shock perform like a $20 trailer shock.......on the other hand, a well put together $100 shock can perform much like the $3000 shock........
shock oil is another option fora simple fix.........3Wt is standard.........many people rebuild with 5wt, and it stiffens them up just right...........???
For the $200, have someone do it for you.
