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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Manual says factory/stock position is hole #2 (second hole from the top).. Both my 1200's came with the straps in hole #3.... I just put them in hole #2 (loosened one hole) in hopes of a little lighter steering, especially for Mrs. Tic.. Where do you guys find is the best position for you?
 

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Running mine full loose, as long as there is 3 pieces of strap that I bolt through. In that way you know you are using all of the travel in the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting.. Do you still have good steering under acceleration?.. Mine are now set where I can only go one more hole loose so I loosened one hole.. Strange that the manual says stock position is #2 yet mine were on #3
 
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I have SC5 and not Rmotion.. Not sure if that makes a diff for factory recommended limiter strap setting or not. One more hole out and I'd be at full loose but it won't have near the slack as Trippy's
 

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Tic, you can set ski pressure on acceleration by the rear scissor stop blocks. I keep mine on 1 most days as a lot of our trails are point and shoot, dive into the corners by letting off the flipper, let the engine braking take you into the corner and as soon as you come out of the corner back on the flipper and it doesn't matter how much pressure is on the skis at that point as you are in a straight line and under acceleration. At least that is the way I see it. Never in that much of a rush that I need it on rails in the corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have coupler blocks on 1 and front shocks full soft. I keep bumping up my torsion springs though. I think they may be sagging out after 7,500mi. That's another question. Is it common for the torsion springs to sag out and if so, after how many miles generally speaking.
 

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1 up (tighter) from stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One hole tighter than stock... Less trenching in deep snow? I know what the manual says but wondering why you would want the limiter strap tighter.. Better trail handling? easier turning w/ less track on the snow? To be honest I've never changed the limiter strap on any sled I've owned so I guess I'll find out.
 

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One hole tighter than stock... Less trenching in deep snow? I know what the manual says but wondering why you would want the limiter strap tighter.. Better trail handling? easier turning w/ less track on the snow? To be honest I've never changed the limiter strap on any sled I've owned so I guess I'll find out.
Yes ... better trail handling, flatter cornering and less push. The downside is less traction, floatation and heavier steering unless you make other changes to compensate for that.
 

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I would stiffen up the front skid spring to lighten steering. Strap will have a dramatic effect on steering, spring setting is more subtile and trailside tuneable.

Only way I would touch strap is if I was riding in super deep fluff all the time.

Wife has same sled, stock strap, full soft in front, 1 click stiffer on front skid from full soft, rears set a next up from full soft, transfer blocks at 2 , air shock at 1 and she has no complaints. Can' remember carbide length but a fresh set of shaper bars on the ski's and she has no complaints on groomed trails. She's 130 lb. rider, shush don't tell her I said that.

I just tried letting out my strap on my shorty to lighten steering, 1000' and back into garage to put it back. Could hardly make a U turn and that was only 1 hole.
 

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I run mine, stock position which is all the way loose, blocks on 1, springs on 4, handles amazing with near zero steering effort
 

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Trippy: where did you get the awesome wheel setup for the front of the rails??? Think I would toss that on everything.

I find that to best dial in the ride and handling I need to adjust the stopper/limiter strap depending on where it it adjusted when I started out. Most times for trails end up on hole 2 or 3 depending on the sled and the rider weight. Seems many folks that I have met and known over the years either don't know about the strap to begin with or don't really know what it's for and how an adjustment can affect the handling of the sled.

My limiter/stopper straps are set to the first loose hole when sitting on the sled depending on the rider weight. This usually ends up being hole 2 or 4. My 1200Gade is set on hole 3 as I prefer more ski pressure on acceleration. Think my daughter's Rev550X is 3 or 4 on the strap as she does not weigh much.

Never used 1 or 5 as I don't ride deep snow all the time (1) where you want as much of the front of the skid to dive or extend into deep snow or hardpack all the time (5) where 5 could result in really heavy steering regardless of other suspension adjustments.

If I were running mostly all deep snow then more loose I would run the stopper (limiter) strap (hole 1 or 2).

For me if the strap is too loose the front end tends to float under acceleration on either straight or cornering reducing control. This is really apparent on touring sleds with both rider's weight on the sled. if the strap is really loose forget about handling. Cannot recall how many straps I have adjusted for folks. A loose strap and you basically have little steering control on acceleration and get get some serious ski lift in corners or straights if accelerating. Some like to pop wheelies, i prefer a precise of handling as I can get.

Buddy of mine rented an 2016 Arctic Cat F570 a few weeks back after his sled tossed a rod bearing and the F570 came with a non-adjustable strap and front skid shock (perhaps like this because was rental??) and needless to say the sled handled terrible not just because it was a Cat F570 (pos in my book) but because we were not able to take up the strap to gain some ski pressure. After some fooling around with the only adjustable aspects on the suspension we ended up increasing both the front ski and the rear skid spring preload and it became more rideable but still was awful and we kept switching back and forth onto my 1200gade so to balance out the crappy handling of the F570 between us.

My .0002 and ymmv,

Tahquamenon
 

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Mr. Tic.....

Get Mrs. Tic on the seat then if strap get loose any, don't mess with the hole (strap :)) thing. Just increase the preload some on the front skid. That will do what you want.
 

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Right now, my LS is stock, center spring is 9.25" with back end off ground.

Skis are 4, (before they were 1.5) and thanks to snow trackers.
 

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Where can I find those little idler wheels on the front of ur rails cause mine are wear really quick even after I jacked up the limiter strap

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Got a note from Trippy. Anti-Stab kit so that the rails will not dig into the track if you run looser track tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Who sells the Anti-Stab kit? and why is it called that? I like running loose track tension as well... BTW, wife's sled is set up as follows... Rear torsions on 1.... air shock usually on 2.... center shock one setting up from softest... front shocks full soft.... limiter strap on second hole (one hole from loosest)......coupler blocks on 1.... Carbides are woodys doolys.... She's happy with this setup but I'm always trying to get the steering effort as easy as it can be for her so she'll ride more miles in a day. She doesn't have a whole lot of upper body strength.. Also she thinks her GSX-SE steers as easy, or easier than her 09' 600 e-tec shorty which is great.
 

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I have a XP Toms Emo skid ( for a XP jammed in my Rev). I had to cut the rail tips off and remove the rail caps completely otherwise my drivers were hitting the rails. Worked like a dream.

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Just a beater sled....mostly stock.... I swear
 
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