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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Does anyone have any experience running these polymer backers?
I've run them on at least 4 different sleds now from 600s to 800s. Never had one bend or break. The lady that answers the phone there is a trip too. She's very cool. If you call her, you gotta post back and tell me what you think. First time I ever bought them was from Route 12 Rentals when I was young and dumb for my Cat. I was skeptical so he goes and pulls a couple out of a freezer, puts one in a vise, gives me a hammer and says try to break it. It looked like crap when I was done but never broke.
 

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I've run them on at least 4 different sleds now from 600s to 800s. Never had one bend or break. The lady that answers the phone there is a trip too. She's very cool. If you call her, you gotta post back and tell me what you think. First time I ever bought them was from Route 12 Rentals when I was young and dumb for my Cat. I was skeptical so he goes and pulls a couple out of a freezer, puts one in a vise, gives me a hammer and says try to break it. It looked like crap when I was done but never broke.
What did you run for studs and nuts? I am going to be studding a cobra 1.352 track. Cant decide if i should use single or double backers. Going with 96 studs down the center.

Like these...

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=449234&st=0&p=3359311&hl=cobra%20studs&fromsearch=1&#entry3359311

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=351452&st=0&p=2854834&hl=cobra%20studs&fromsearch=1&#entry2854834
 

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Another plus with the poly backers is that you wont get any "socket rash" when you torque them down. I've had three sets of colored aluminum backers and no matter how careful you are, you will scratch a little paint off of them on the install. Can ugly them up real quick. That is why I have gone to the raw aluminum on my last sleds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Another plus with the poly backers is that you wont get any "socket rash" when you torque them down. I've had three sets of colored aluminum backers and no matter how careful you are, you will scratch a little paint off of them on the install. Can ugly them up real quick. That is why I have gone to the raw aluminum on my last sleds.
Good point, didn't think of that. That would really "edit for bad language" me off too!
 

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http://www.fasttractraction.com/topguncarbide2.htm

I ran the fast trac top gun carbide II stud. It has a 1 1/32 head instead of the standard 1" to help with pull throughs. haven't bent any, and they seem to be wearing very well.

The cobra track is a relatively soft rubber track, and in my opinion does not hold studs the best. If I was going to stud another one, I would use all double backers, as I've heard they hold better, which makes sense because all the racers use them in the 1.75" tracks with super tall studs.

So what I would do is, use the double Air Lite XL backers
http://www.fasttractraction.com/xlbackers_twohole.htm

and the Top Gun Carbide II stud. If you order the studs from Dennis Kirk, they say that they don't come with nuts, but they do actually come with steel nyloc nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
http://www.fasttractraction.com/topguncarbide2.htm

I ran the fast trac top gun carbide II stud. It has a 1 1/32 head instead of the standard 1" to help with pull throughs. haven't bent any, and they seem to be wearing very well.

The cobra track is a relatively soft rubber track, and in my opinion does not hold studs the best. If I was going to stud another one, I would use all double backers, as I've heard they hold better, which makes sense because all the racers use them in the 1.75" tracks with super tall studs.

So what I would do is, use the double Air Lite XL backers
http://www.fasttractraction.com/xlbackers_twohole.htm

and the Top Gun Carbide II stud. If you order the studs from Dennis Kirk, they say that they don't come with nuts, but they do actually come with steel nyloc nuts.
Thanks for the info. I actually just found this picture and am thinking of going with this type pattern.

 
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