I'd give it a try. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

I also carry a battery jump pack whenever I ride.

Don~

 

I bought one (jump pack), but haven't used it yet. I know you have a 1200 as well. Will the 4-strokes run with a completely dead battery following a jump?

 

I do not know. I've never had a 4 stroke battery go completely dead on me.

Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in....I would be interested to know as well.

Don~

 

I have the NOCO Boost Sport and I did use it to start my Renegade Enduro 900 Ace. No issue there.
The OEM battery died and I contacted my dealer as my machines are not even 2 yrs old and the battery on my machine is now dead and won't hold it's charge. In the off season, both machines are stored in my garage, belts off and I start them every 2 to 3 weeks and run them for a few minutes.
Anyways, I brought the battery to the dealer, they tested it and it failed. I asked the service rep if he could contact BRP to see if they would cover it as goodwill. No go! They refused. I purchased a Parts Canada battery for $130 incl. taxes. We'll see how that goes this season with the new battery. I won't be trading or buying anything BRP again. No that they care about me but it makes me feel good saying it! lol

 

I also carry a small set of jumper cables.

Don~

 

Junk. Had one for my quad- lasted half as long as a YUASA. Ya get what you pay for in this matter, in my opinion.

 

But if the Yuasa was 2.5x the money even at 1/2 the life you're still money ahead buying the Weize - not to mention he also said he was recently burned by a Yuasa. That's not the only one of those reports we've seen either.

I used to like Duracell batteries, today that be the last one I'd choose. Overpriced leaking junk.

Things change. I'd give it a shot.

 

We really don't know how many, or what %, of the Yuasa's are failing prematurely, if it was a batch problem, or ????

But who knows if these cheapo batteries are any good or not....one can only try them, and does no harm unless you are in a difficult situation if it strands you.

Batteries are something where you generally get what you pay for.

 

Agreed. This was my experience: tried cheaper battery, had exponentially less life than little more expensive battery, and went back to more expensive battery.

I’m a “buy once, cry once” kind of person. The name brand has a reputation for decades for good reason. The argument for a bad batch is much more plausible than anything else. Are people still continually having these same failures? My guess is no.

 

Just checked Amazon.ca site and battery was $148.50,long ways from $50.00 ??????

 

I don't know what the exchange rate is... $54.80 USD on Amazon with 10% off coupon.

Amazon.com: Weize YTX20L-BS High Performance Power Sports- Maintenance Free - Sealed AGM Battery ETX20L BS For Motorcycle ATV UTV snowmobile : Automotive

You have to select the 20HL Version.

Looks the Yuasa is now $102. The Interstate (rebranded Yuasa) is normally $137.

 

The "Diehard" in my other sled (came with it) is 2 years older - 4 years in total and it still tests at 70% at the rated capacity. My Yuasa tested at 17% at 18 months in 50f temps.

 

Just curious... did this poor Yuasa battery come in the sled new? If so, what year of sled?

 

I see the $54.80 USD price on Amazon right now.

 

I bought one for my harley to try. Working great. I also have a 2013 600etec still on original battery, apparently a good one. Have had 2 other yuasa, both lasted 2 yrs and done.

 

There have been a number of times where a battery manufacturer 'loses' the magic formula for good reliable batteries:

• AC Delco Freedom batteries were excellent in the 80's and early 90's but then went downhill
• Johnson Controls made top notch storage batteries for a long time then moved their factory to Mexico and then they were not nearly as good
• Duracell batteries made in China have been very poor in my experience

So we are regularly left playing the game of 'whose good today'. I see on the Yuasa website that their 'larger' powersports batteries are made in the US factory. Are our sled batteries not 'larger' ones? So are these made in one of their overseas nowadays? The mystery continues....

 

So we are regularly left playing the game of 'whose good today'. I see on the Yuasa website that their 'larger' powersports batteries are made in the US factory. Are our sled batteries not 'larger' ones? So are these made in one of their overseas nowadays? The mystery continues....

The Yuasa in question was a US-made battery. The form factor in our sleds is considered the "large"

 

I won't be buying an AC or any other brand. These are our first and last machines that I will purchase. I will drive them into the ground.

 

The Yuasa battery in my '23 is currently on the charger, it didn't have enough umph to start my garage kept sled this morning. Oddly it was still over 12v, just not enough cranking power. Yes I know 13.2v is considered fully charged but I would have thought with over 12v and being in a heated garage it should have had enough ass it start it. Apparently not.

 

After a year I don't see much over 12.7 anymore, 12.77 after recovery. On a different battery which was bought new and at 13.1 out of the box, after a year of no charge I got 12.3 which is pretty much dead at maybe 50% charge. I no longer see such high voltage out of the box. At the end of this past season I was seeing ~12.33 at the dealer, but they were bought in large palettes in Oct and had been left to self discharge for months. I was disappointed to see them drop so far after 6 months, so I bought the same YTX with Bottled Supplied so that I wouldn't be dealing with an already sulfated battery.

Last season must have killed a lot of AGM batteries.

 

^^ That sounds like the batch of batteries that one of the dealers who posts here replaced last season. IIRC. BRP shipped a new bunch of batteries to them.

That goes back to the question of whether this is a batch or one-off process or material problem, or a pervasive long term problem due to some change in design or manufacturing.

 

^^ That sounds like the batch of batteries that one of the dealers who posts here replaced last season. IIRC. BRP shipped a new bunch of batteries to them.

That goes back to the question of whether this is a batch or one-off process or material problem, or a pervasive long term problem due to some change in design or manufacturing.

In the batteries defense it's not like it got a lot of usage last season - just 3 rides.

I'll give it a charge and see if it comes to life. If not it'll be replaced and chances are it wouldn't be another Yuasa, it'd probably be a Walmart battery. I've actually had good luck with them.

 

$25 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MPXGSGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

$25 Amazon.com

Thanks - I just ordered one.

I'm not an Amazon guy so it came from Ebay - basically the same $$$. $24.98 delivered to the door.

 

I also checked Wally World, $110 for their Everstart Premium.

If the Yuasa doesn't test 100% I'll replace it. Walking sucks.

 

Mmmm, be careful. Don't think that is a real battery load tester. It is not. It only does a very short pulse testing of a battery, not any true discharges. It takes that pulse test reading and computes/projects' estimates some battery parameters.

True load testers draw substantial current for 15- 30 seconds. So this thing falls into the same category IMHO as Harbor leak-down testers... it just has the name of a real tool.

FWIW, a true CCA test requires the battery to be cold soaked for 24 hours; I can't recall off the top of my head if that is a 0F or 0C. So unless you do that, you can't get true CCA measurements without that.

 

Mmmm, be careful. Don't think that is a real battery load tester. It is not. It only does a very short pulse testing of a battery, not any true discharges. It takes that pulse test reading and computes/projects' estimates some battery parameters.

True load testers draw substantial current for 15- 30 seconds. So this thing falls into the same category IMHO as Harbor leak-down testers... it just has the name of a real tool.

FWIW, a true CCA test requires the battery to be cold soaked for 24 hours; I can't recall off the top of my head if that is a 0F or 0C. So unless you do that, you can't get true CCA measurements without that.

Agreed - but's a good quick test. In my experience isn't more than accurate enough for car/lawn/snowmobile uses.

 

I use Walmart batteries..They work just fine and usually have a date code so you know how long it's been sitting.

This is the one I used for my ATV..

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...Size-TX20L-12-Volt-310-CCA/49988412?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1600&from=/search

And put it on your maintainer until it's full before testing or using it!!

 

I use Walmart batteries..They work just fine and usually have a date code so you know how long it's been sitting.

This is the one I used for my ATV..

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...Size-TX20L-12-Volt-310-CCA/49988412?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1600&from=/search

And put it on your maintainer until it's full before testing or using it!!

That's the one I bought.

 

The Yuasa battery is junk. I had it on the charger for 6 hours. It read 12.85 volts afterwards, which is listed as fully charged. I put it back in the sled, still not enough ass to start the sled.

Off to Walmart for a new battery, date code 11/24 so it's pretty fresh, sled fired right up. 👍

If the weather settles down a little I'll get that one out tomorrow.

 

The Yuasa battery is junk. I had it on the charger for 6 hours. It read 12.85 volts afterwards, which is listed as fully charged. I put it back in the sled, still not enough ass to start the sled.

Off to Walmart for a new battery, date code 11/24 so it's pretty fresh, sled fired right up. 👍

If the weather settles down a little I'll get that one out tomorrow.

If the Wal Mart battery was one of their factory filled ones, you will probably only get two years out of it. I got one for my ATV, because I needed it and that was all they had that fit. The reviews said they only last two years. Yep, that was all I got out of it.

The ones that you fill with acid will last a long time if set up properly. I get at least 6-8 years out of them in my motorcycles. The one in my 600 ACE is going on its 3rd. season.

 

Thanks for the Walmart Everstart tip. So interesting how all these companies are inconsistant in the model codes. The "H" series is suppose to be 310 CCA; without that, it's 270 CCA. i.e. TX20HL-BS. The Walmart Everstart is 310, but doesn't show "H" Other companies, will show "-BS" for Bottle Supplied; many are factory activated and still show "-BS."
I was actually kicking around the Weize battery again OR the Mighty Max - both has crazy amount of Amazon reviews. They both have 1 year warranties, and you can buy the 3 year warranty for $7-8; assuming they honor it.

 

Prices include CND Taxes

I found a Yuasa YTX20HL-BS for $165 , and a Kimpex YTX20HL-BS for $135. I need another one, so I may try one of those.

The cheaper one may be lighter and contain less lead. The Yuasa is a $100 savings for me, so I will probably go with that one.

 

I have added (1) weize and (1) Mightmax batteries in my 2015 Polaris 570 sportman four wheelers after the factory battery took a crap after about 5 years. Both batteries are are also almost 5 years old now and they get the treatment the originals did. Wisconsin Deer season is about the only time I actually use the four wheelers and that just ended. It was one of the coldest seasons in a long time and both four wheelers started just fine every morning. I wouldn't hesitate purchasing them again when the time comes.

 

Thanks for the real-world info.

 

I decided to buy the "Weize" how it's a wise... decision. Price dropped again. $46.75 + $8 for 3 year warranty. Bought 2. Let's give it a shot; if it lasts a year its cheaper than the Yuasa.

 

Talked to a buddy of mine of mine today, he said he's been running them for awhile now, they've served him well. He was getting ready to order another one, replacing a Yuasa.

Good luck with yours.

 

You have to watch out for the size difference. I found that out on my 850 as the battery was just a smidge bigger and didn't fit in the plastic with the metal arm holding it.

 

Just throwing this out there, voltage and CCA capacity are two different things. The only way to know a battery's capacity is to load test it. Obviously, if the engine doesn't start, that's a load test, but having it tested before the season starts will give peace of mind. Auto parts retailers should all be able to load test a battery.

The best thing you can do for your battery is to keep it on a battery maintainer (NOT a trickle charger) when not in use, especially off season. A battery doesn't require a constant charge, only to be maintained at it's maximum charge level. Personally I exclusvely use Battery Tender brand maintainers, but there are others to choose from.

Starting the engine periodically an only letting it run for a few minutes does nothing to maintain a battery's charge and leads to condensation in the engine. Better to not start it at all.

 

The best thing you can do for your battery is to keep it on a battery maintainer (NOT a trickle charger) when not in use, especially off season.

Keep in mind that I really do like your post. The thing is that I am unable to make the distinction between a battery maintainer and a trickle charger. Are you referring to old school trickle chargers? A lot has changed in the past 20 years.

Did you know one of the main causes of house/garage fires was from battery charging? I wish that I had any document to corroborate my belief. Even my insurance company was unable (or unwilling) to corroborate my belief. It is my pure 100% biased view, so take it for what it is worth.

 

My friend's barn almost caught fire from using a trickle charger versus a float/maintainer charger.

Walked in just as the fire was starting to spread. He was able to put it out quickly. Fire clearly started at the trickle charger.

Don~

 

Barn/Garage/Home fires from battery charging



Thanks for the confirmation. I tested an old trickle charger and the voltage eventually did reach high enough to boil the electrolyte. I can imagine a short in the battery causing a spark and igniting the gases. Barn/Garage/Home fires from battery charging is a real thing.