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2006 summit 144 600sdi adrenaline

hey guys, i could use some help again. i have had problems with the clutching on this sled from day one, and i dont know what else to try. the first problems i had with the sled was it coming straight from the dealer NOT set up for sea level. so when i figured that out i had them do all that jazz, new primary spring, weights, gearing, and set the computer up for sea level, everything to doo's specs. i also had them check compression and both sides were the same, at i think he said 137lbs. i just had the latest remap to stop the flaming can, and also had the secondary spring changed due to a recall, so everthing should be good to go, i have done no other mods to the sled, other than recently ditching the plastic housing that is riveted on the belt guard, and glueing some pre-filter material on the outside panel vent. i am on my 3rd belt in 2000 miles, and the third one is looking pretty wore. something tells me this isnt normal, but i can live with the belt wear, its the annoying over rev that drives me insane! every time i go over a bump or jump, or whenever the track comes off the ground and i have the throttle pinned, it hits the limiter and cuts out. even when i take off from a dead stop and have GOOD traction, i can watch the tach jump to about 8400 than quickly drops to about 8000 for the rest of the pull, but sometimes the rpms will keep dropping slowly to under 8000 until i let off. this is all one clicker 3. when i drop it down to clicker 2, it mostly takes care of the over rev, but it sucks big time, when im off and on the throttle the rpms will never be consistant, another problem is the rpms drop in the middle of a pull, example; i will be carving a donut with the throttle pinned, and half way through the circle i can feel my rpms drop. watching the tach it looks like it drops to about 7500rpms. this is all on clicker 2, so i put it back to clicker 3 which is much better, but i still think the rpms shouldnt be jumping around that much, and the over rev off jumps and bumps is killing me!! i love the sled but god dang, is this normal? im no expert on this stuff so bear with me, and could someone tell me how its SUPPOSED to work? thanks for help in advance guys, i really love this site, lots of help here!
 

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first off go to www.mxzxrevzone.com ,I think that's joes web site, there is a link on this site,,, and read everything he has on clutching, that will help you or it should. second when going off a jump or a big bump and you have the throttle wide open. here is what happens..... you instantly have a no load situation. of course you are going to over rev! learn to back off just a touch as you lift off.. third it sounds like you are hitting the ground as you come down with wide open throttle. Expect to break a drive chain if you continue this practice. Work the flipper. Surely you have some friends that don't have the over rev problem? ask them what they doo... they probably don't even think about it as common sense usually prevails.
just my .02
 

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maybe i didnt explain it right, but im not talking huge air here, i mean the track doesnt even have to be all the way off the ground, im talking pulling up to a mound of snow and cracking the throttle to go over it, and half way off the mound it will cut out and screw it up. should my rpms really change that quickly? isnt the rev limiter somewhere around 8500? should my rpms really jump by 500 in a fraction of a second? its pretty hard to describe it, but i know if you rode it you would see what i meant. i can understand if i had the track in the air holding the throttle to the bars it would over rev, but something tells me my rpms should shoot up that quick in the first place, maybe but i doubt it. no one i ride with has even heard their rev limiter, but then again, im the only 600sdi.

edit: REV Renegade 04 i see you have an sdi, does yours do this?
 

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my rev limiter cuts in at just over 8000, I doubt if I can actually see 8150, remember you are running an 8000 rpm engine not a 8900 rpm 440. I think most of your problems are in your clutching. eg. this past weekend we held our annual drag races. I set the sled up for cold pipe running, but I ran two classes back to back. so after about 7-8 runs the engine was heat soaked and the pipe good and hot and this was at
-27C, 100 ft off the line I started hitting the rev limiter and had to keep letting off the throttle a touch to avoid it. Still took third in the mtn improved class but should of had a first if I would of had time to lower clickers.. This is only the second time I have experienced hitting the rev limiter. the first was when I first got the sled and was trying to get 8200 out of it.
I run the same track as you 144X16X2 , 19X43 gears & 9 tooth extros, I just upped my pin weight to 17.76 grams from 17.06g but haven't had a chance to run it yet. the biggest difference between us is I ride at 4-6000 ft.
I am just going to check the specs of your sled and will get back to you.
 

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ok, I found the specs. now I need to know what the dealer put in for springs and gears etc. and we can go from there. pm me if you like.
 

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hey, thanks a lot for the help, i appreciate it
. the dealer set it up to the sea level specs on ski doos update sheet mbs2006-002. so it has:

blue/yellow primary spring
clicker 3
417 004 308 solid pins
43t lower sprocket ratio 19/43
secondary spring (found this info in another thread, must have been what they put in) WARRANTY CAMPAIGN 2006-7,SPRING COLOR VIOLET P/N 414978300
 

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Veedo, first off lets compare:
stock primary spring is purple/green- 160-260
you now have blue/yellow 130-230
the secondary spring is a 225-303, the strongest installed force available
stock is a 135-303 a huge difference
I can see this stalling the shift out and giving you a very fast back shift = higher rpm with little effort under light load such as you are experiencing.
stock pin wt. 16.55 g., your part numbers don't match mine though and now you have 16.71 on my scale, .15 grams difference loading the engine very slightly and applying more force on the primary spring closing the clutch sheaves with less effort because of the lower finish force of your primary spring.
stock gearing is 19-45 you now have 19-43 the taller ratio makes it even harder for the primary to open = more rpm
here are my conclusions so far: What they have done is more or less set you up with the specs for europe but for a couple of important exceptions. I will list the specs for europe and US you can compare to what you have now and I think it will begin to make sense to you
lets start with the primary clutch:
europe specs: pins 417004308 solid 16.71 g
spring blue/yellow 414689500 130-230
clicker 3
Secondary clutch:
europe specs: cam 417126445, 44 degree(helix)yours is a 40 degree
Spring 417126687 black 157-303 lbs, read back to
compare what you had and what you have now.
if I am correct the europe specs are for sea level to 2000 ft. easy adjustments with clickers and/or pin weight.
this is what I think you should do to start. mark your clutch sheaves with a felt pen, draw a line or two from bottom to top. both clutches, then go out and ride at moderate speeds to get everything nice and hot don't get in a hurry. no real hard wot pulls or only 2-3 seconds at a time , then find a spot, preferably level and smooth with soft snow, doesn't have to be deep. from a standing start, pin it and hold all the way to top end = max rpm, max speed. do this 3-4 times, watch your rpm, what does it do? then stop and remove the clutch cover and check the heat of the clutches with your hand or a digital thermometer. I am betting one clutch is going to be sizzling and the other pretty hot too. then have a look at the lines you drew on your clutches and see how much is worn off. let me know what happens.
double check belt deflection before you start.
 
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