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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an ice cobra 1.6 coming in tomorrow. my wear bars are trashed from a weekend of low snow so I wont be able to use what I have as a base line. so Im wondering what people are running with there 1.6 cobras or similar tracks.

I had a 1.25 ripsaw track with 84 studs that the dealer installed and I had 6in carbide woodys and wasn't very happy with them, the sled felt like it pushed to much In corners and when I would turn harder it would just lift the inside ski and want to flip. (I have played with suspension settings). my plan was to try 6" shapers but I decided to get a new track so im not sure if maybe I should get 8" since im going to a deeper lug track.

ive only ran woodys on all of my sleds so I am open to other recommendations. I understand that there are lots of topics about wear bars but Im lost since I wont be able to try the ware bars I have to use as a base line and I could not find any threads that were helpful to my current situation

thanks
 

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The shapers will definitely be an improvement.

I have a 1.5 ripsaw, studded 126, and I am running 7.5 shapers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there any amount of push? I'm taking about an amount that some people usely like to have, not an unsafe amount were you might go into on coming traffic.
 

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Have you drilled out the holes on the outside of your ski to put a carbide out there? You could even put your trashed one there, its more to just protect the outside of the ski. I would go with 7.5" Shaper bars in the center. Tighten up your limiter strap one hole will help the inside ski lift. Put more preload on your center shock till your front end starts to push. Once it starts to push back it off a little at a time. This depends a lot on snow conditions also.
 

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Ive got the ice attak track on my 16.

stock 4" drilled on the outside, 6" shapers in the center and she rails !

I might go to 7.5" shapers with the 1.6 cobra though?
 

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Get pilot 5.7r skis, will work a lot better than regular pilots with that track but steers easier than aftermarket. They have a longer deeper keel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I did drill the out side keel of the ski and put the stock were bar on the it side. I have been looking at other ski options.

My only complaint about the sled is that I'll be going into a corner fast and when and as I'm turning everything will be good and smooth and then aol of the sudden the inside ski will lift hard and fast (as if I hit something but I'm sure I didn't) and I'll have to let off the throttle and counter steer to save it. It bothers me because when I counter steer to save it, often times I cross the center of the trail. This is something that I never had a problem with on my 06 rev. I've played with the suspension and my limiter strap and I feel that I've got it times as good as it's gonna get. Would pilot 5.7r skis help with this?

I've never changed skis and don't know what the effects are. To me this seemed like a front suspension geometry problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong
 

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snowman... I was having this same issue with mine. Maybe you've already tried this but the solution for me was cranking my front ski springs down one setting stiffer...made all the difference in the world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes i did do that. it did make a big improvement over were i started, but for me the issue is still there some.

would an 8" woody ware bar be roughly the same as a 6" shaper?
 

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I have the aggressive snowtrackers on my 2015 800 tnt with the 1.6 ice cobra. Handles like a dream.
 

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I have the 1.6" ice cobra on a gade and will only run the 7.5" shaper bars. But I also have more aggressive skis than stock.

If you are having ski lift, adding more front spring preload is the worst thing you could do. I usually increase center spring preload a little bit until it disappears, but there are other ways to dial it out also.
 
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