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Metalhead
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With w.w. y'll need a longer warmup period.
An analogy; Waterwetter is basically a liquid "stuck open thermostat" ? hehehe

I do non destructive testing for a living and am familiar with many "additives" which are not needed and/or used for wrong purpose. The use of some additives inhibits cooling properties of coolant liquids or anti-corrosive properties. Im not saying you don't need this product, I only want to warn about a property of waterwetter...

In time "agewise" it corrodes aluminum.

Water Wetter has a high Ph, but also has silicates, so it can be used in aluminium radiators. However, if left for a long time, the silicates are depleted, and damage will occur...
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/lubricants-redline.html#coolants

The ph causes pitting/crevice corrosion. It is when the solution is stagnant, your sled sitting over the spring/summer/fall months without circulation, the nature is localized corrosion and will etch smooth surfaces to eventually pitting over time. I don't have a clue how much corrosion will take place over year...just something to remember with any products that have high ph's.

Plain water itself is one of the best if not is the best liquid to take away heat from an object however cannot have pure water in a snowmobile engine. You will do great cooling by mixing a proper ratio of antifreeze/water to get a blend that is good for -30 F. Less antfreeze and more water in the ratio of mix will result in a liquid that is more efficient at removing heat....waterwetter will enhance coolant protection, is well proven and works good.

Let your sled warm up for longer period before driving.
 

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I use Water Wetter in my race car. Drops temp 20 to 30 degrees. You can find it where ever race car parts are sold. Not hard to find. Somebody might have some close by. Check around
 

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I GOT THE NEED FOR SPEED !!!
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I use water wetter in my cooling system, ER in my chaincase, blue marble in my oil injection, and FICHT in my fuel and I rode to the moon and back last night.

Seriously, I did gain a little top end, because of my lighter wallet...
 

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Metalhead
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This is off cooling topic.....however does cover the "liquid" aspect of it.
Thought this might generate huge interest once read, not really offering answers but I bet it raises more questions for the reader regarding engine oils.

http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm
The gent mentioned A.E. Haas is to the oil world as what Gerrard Karpic was to the snowmobile clutching world. Knowlegable, borderline nerd, passionate about the subject, highly interested in sharing information.
Remember when you read the word "centistoke" that means "thickness".

Once I started to learn more about oils, I now use 0w-20 yr round in my Tiburon and 0w-30 in my chev 1/2 ton w/330hp 350.

Really the numbers mean nothing, I use an "SL" oil. heh heh, where would you find that on a bottle of oil?

I am looking deeper into snowmobile engine oils and wondering what the TC-W3 does as far as ratings between brands; What snowmobile engine oils would be better suited for our engines, what would cause more or quicker ring wear...
 

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http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20Oil%20101.htm

"I personally use Mobil 1, 0W-20 in the 575 Maranello and for the first oil change I drained the Murcielago's 5W-40 Agip and replaced it with 0W-30 Mobil 1. The engine became much quieter. A valve tappet noise disappeared. I may try the 0W-20 next. For all my other cars I use the regular Pennzoil Multigrade 5W-20."

Jeez He sure have the same cars as I do….

Some people say a good mineral oil better than a synthetic one , I don't really believe so though.
 
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