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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

I took my sled (2015 renegade 600 etec) for a ride after sitting in the cold (-25C to -30C for a week), and noticed it seemed to be running warm for the conditions. Then I smelled antifreeze. Sure enough I had a leak and the reservoir was dry. Got the sled home and as near as I can tell after pulling the primary, airbox and exhaust to inspect the cooling system, none of the clamps are leaking but there appears to be a drip coming from the water pump housing near where it mates to the block much as described in the below thread.

I figure I either have a leaky waterpump housing gasket, or like in the below thread maybe the seal on the impeller shaft is gone, but what I wanted to clarify is, if there is a weep hole that will leak if the impeller coolant seal leaks? \

Any input is appreciated. I'm pulling the Ypipe and starter tomorrow to get better access to the pump housing.

I found the below thread:

https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1491322-2017-xrs-600-etec-water-pump-leak/

but I wanted to find a little more information related to this topic.
 

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It is more than likely the impeller seal. I doubt that the gskt will be leaking. You could try and torque the gskt bolts and see if they are loose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is more than likely the impeller seal. I doubt that the gskt will be leaking. You could try and torque the gskt bolts and see if they are loose?
That's sort of my thought. So if the impeller seal goes there must be a weep hole to allow the coolant to leak then eh?
 

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Yuppers.
 
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Easiest way is to pull the engine and work with it on bench. A lot of work. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Easiest way is to pull the engine and work with it on bench. A lot of work. :(
That was my fear. The thread I liked to said it could be done in the sled but I expect that is going to be a tight squeeze
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good news, I fixed the sled this weekend without having to pull the motor.

For anyone who is experiencing the same issue as me, major drip coming from left front of motor under the starter, I diagnosed the issue a couple ways. One was to use a radiator pressure tester with small pressure cap adapter to pressurize the system and noticed the drip became more frequent. It is also easier to see the drip with the primary clutch out of the way and even better if you remove the starter. The drip will look like its coming from the gasket surface where the water pump housing bolts to the engine block.

When removing the starter, first you obviously have to get the expansion pipe out of the way. Next what I found I've had to do int the past is loosen of unbolt the two front motor mounts. This will allow you to pry under one of the motor mounts or carefully lift with your hand by the Y pipe, and put a wedge either in the motor mount or I used a 2x2 under the Y pipe to hold the motor up a bit and allow me to access the bottom torx bolt that holds the starter to the left front motor mount. Also be careful not to loose the spacer that goes between the tail of the starter and the engine block.

Once the starter is out of the way, you can get a hand under the motor and feel for the weep hole for the water pump. Its aligned with the center of the water pump housing, but sort of under the engine block just behind the water pump. What I did is as the sled was dripping I plugged that hole with my finger and the drip stopped confirming that it was the rotary seal leaking coolant on the water pump shaft.

Once that is confirmed, its a tight squeeze but with the right combination of ratchets, you can get all 6 bolts off of the water pump housing. Then what I did is had someone use cir-clip pliers to insert into the holes on the impeller, heated up the loctite on the impeller with a heat gun and spun the crank with the primary clutch to loosen the impeller. Then undo the two allan bolts behind the impeller. From there you just need pull the water pump shaft out of the block. I threaded a nut onto the impeller shaft and used a little pry bar with a notch cut in it to give it a little tug.

Be warned, you will lose some oil out of the gear cavity and make a mess. Before doing this make sure the oil tank inst filled above the vent line, that goes to the top of the oil tank behind the airbox. I'd recommend pinching off that line to avoid siphoning a bunch of oil out of the tank into the belly pan. Also to re-fill the center cavity after re-assembly make sure the vent line is filled with oil and give it some time to work its way into the cavity. I also found that once the sled ran it helped more of that oil make its way into the cavity.

From there just reassemble, burp the cooling system and you should be back on the trail.
 

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Great information, thanks for the write-up

We're you able to press a new rotary seal onto the shaft or did you buy a whole new assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great information, thanks for the write-up

We're you able to press a new rotary seal onto the shaft or did you buy a whole new assembly?
as a temporary fix so that I didn't have to wait for parts I actually used one that came out of an older motor. The water pump shaft has been the same basically same since the early 2000's on 600's, 700's and 800's, same part number. So I had the carcass of an old 500ss engine that I stole the water pump out of. I'm looking into either pressing on a new seal this summer so I can put a water pump shaft that isn't 15 years old and doesn't have 20,000 km on it.
 

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Nice work, good job man.

Just an fyi for others experiencing this,in my experience, most dealers want to sell you the whole pump shaft assembly @ $259.99.

I wanted to share that a capable dealer/shop should be able to press the rotary seal off and replace.

The rotary seal is $23.99 plus their labor makes this a relatively cheap repair albeit a little time and patience.

If you have a press and the proper arbor (ski-doo sells one) it makes this a relatively cheap repair although time consuming whether in the sled or on a bench.
 
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