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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There has bee a lot of PB80 talk recently, so before I go on my next trip I would feel better giving it an inspection.

I'd rather worry about fuel on a long trip I guess.

Anyway, mine is from Bill, with the secondary kit. I got it in Sept. of 2012, so I'm guessing it's a first generation, but I don't know yet.

For tools, I have the tennis racket to hold it still, I have the 36mm socket, I use the water method to remove. After that, I'm making my own stuff.

First, does this clutch need to come off to inspect the spring? It looks like you really need gravity on your side to reassemble but I've never done it.

Is it OK to loosen the big nut while it's still on the sled to help hold it still, and also do the final torque that way?

Any other handy tips, like how to fab up a quick compression tool to control the cup? I'm thinking some threaded rod and some rugged washer is all I need for the number of times I will be in there.
 

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Yes its ok to leave it on the sled, make sure to line it back up with the marks on the clutch when you re assemble, the outer half will come right off to work on it, i welded some threaded rod on angle iron so i can clamp it in the vice to change springs, your on the right path. The holding tool they sell is really nice and not that expensive. Look up rockerdan, he has videos that shows answers to all your questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I have visited Rocker Dan's thread. Good stuff there.

Now, If I leave the clutch on the sled, use my "handelbar kickstand" to get it in position to work on, any chance the clutch bolt with some spacers would work to compress and decompress the spring?
 

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Fuzzy but not Blue........
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Just use a threaded rod with a couple of nuts and large fender washers to remove the spring afer you get the sliding half off the sled.

-grover
 

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OCD Sledhead
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This should set some minds at ease. First, I'm already done, everything looks good. Wanna see?
4dee94cc747f94945bc76607b94ea314.jpg
i marked everything [/img] I mean everything
e59fb2306f77a727ebe90be42ec2a2b5.jpg
then a few more things
42028009f6d15f33132c1710bcafff86.jpg


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Slid off the outer half
9ab9a2b8b11fe252cdac03e497fed933.jpg
found some rod and spacers
b4fd91555485b8ab3db7821988b6160a.jpg
now the good part
9372db8f513c245a062731f609a2ffc8.jpg
looking good
7c37d95a77904d4776a4357cac12b5f3.jpg
worst part of the spring
a4f4d7ea90a6755e4547293840eaab52.jpg
worst part of the cup
4aa099e174c04ddc8c1137741eb659ab.jpg
the spring slides in but little to no wiggle room
6d2e16564fe31e3e03c91c499f2fd789.jpg


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That spring does look tight in that cup. Not much sign of wear though for 7000 miles.
 

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Where's the plastic spring guide?
 

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So that is a V1 cup and never needed a spacer?...V1 cups start failing, hence the V2 cup with spacer and then V3 cup recessed bolts/improvement to V2?.. No spacer = possible cup wear from spring rubbing. Got it
 

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Slid off the outer half
9ab9a2b8b11fe252cdac03e497fed933.jpg
found some rod and spacers
b4fd91555485b8ab3db7821988b6160a.jpg
now the good part
9372db8f513c245a062731f609a2ffc8.jpg
looking good
7c37d95a77904d4776a4357cac12b5f3.jpg
worst part of the spring
a4f4d7ea90a6755e4547293840eaab52.jpg
worst part of the cup
4aa099e174c04ddc8c1137741eb659ab.jpg
the spring slides in but little to no wiggle room
6d2e16564fe31e3e03c91c499f2fd789.jpg


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Winter Knight or anyone know by chance who makes this spring? I have the same and would like to replace it.
 

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http://www.cudneyracing.com/HOME.html

That is a spring from Bill Cudney's kit. Not sure he would tell you what it is if you called him. Probably just want to sell you another but that spring can cause problems with the spring cup.....as in make it to break.
 

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Thanks. I think I found the spec for that spring it may be a 160/260
Where did you come up with that? Doesn't sound like a high enough finish rate.
 
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