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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my USIs today and want to put them on and just wondered if I need to use any loctite anywhere? Also do I just use what comes with the kit as far as shims/washers go? They arent as tight as the precisions were between the spindle and ski saddles.
 

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ChiefOgemaw
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I used Loc tight to be safe.
Used the shims that came with my skis. They should be REV specific shims.
I had to pry my shims/saddles apart to fit them in. Installed another set and they were easier, didn't have to pry at all.

The trick I found, lift sled by front bumper with jack (rag), install the saddle to the sled first, then install the rubber inside of the saddle, then ski & carbide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rubber deal, taller part towards front or back?
I just put them together then lifted up the sled on each side stuck bolt through and then tightened up everything. I hope it will OK?

I didnt use loctite YET.
I hope my rubbers are right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well these things bite like a "edit for bad language" and I hope I can dial some of that out?
so far Ive cranked the center shock up past halfway.
should I switch my coupling blocks from fat side down to fat side back?
i have my rear torsion springs on 2 should I bump them up?
should I crank my front shock springs up or down?
limiter strap definately mess with it or no?
bend to carbide between the 4th and 5th studs or no?
Im using the 6" round carbides.

Do carbides wear out faster on these than they do on normal skis due to design? Seems like they might?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Im a patient person so Im not getting upset at all. I will keep asking more and more questions, eventually someone that knows will see them.

Would steering effort be affected by switching which of the 3 holes I mount the skis in?

Should I have used the precision ski rubbers underneath or are the short little ones that came with the kit OK?
 

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I love the bite also, but I am getting alot of drag. The drag is from the down pressure, not the carbide. It could feel a differance when I tightened up the center shock. I also bent the carbide, but it looks to me the ski just straighted it back out. I am tempted to shave off a little plastic on the bach part of the keel. I am going to try the round carbides also.
 

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Well im assuming I assembled them correctly with the taller rubber part towards the front of the ski? (no one confirmed that)
Im running 6" round carbides and not the shapers.
Anyone with experience (miles on these) know if the carbides last as long as normal skis/carbides (precison)?
It looks like the way these are designed the carbides take a heck of a beating.
I love the way they steer on anything but my god they turn way too hard. Ive got more adjusting to do still though.
I also did NOT use loctite on the main bolts through the spindles, im hoping with nyloc nuts that will be all good?
I know with the Ski Doo nuts on my precision loctite was a must. I found that out the hard way once when I lost a ski.
Finally, did I hurt the mounts? I put them on and there was a good amount of slop/gap/clearance on both sides that simply closed up when I tightened up the bolts. I have the lightweight HP mounts.
 

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I wasnt sure which way to put the fat part of the rubber block, either, so I put the fat part towards the back. If you pick the front of the sled up, it makes the skis tip upwards in the front. The way you have it, they will tip down. If I'm landing a jump, I don't think I want my skis pointing downards at the tips. Maybe I'm wrong.

Definitely bend your carbides up between the 4th and 5th stud. I couldnt believe the difference. It only takes a half hour and a vise.

My carbides have taken a good beating in 300 miles. Snow conditions havent been that great. The front of the skis are beat up, too.

Eric

MXZonly said:
Well im assuming I assembled them correctly with the taller rubber part towards the front of the ski? (no one confirmed that)
Im running 6" round carbides and not the shapers.
Anyone with experience (miles on these) know if the carbides last as long as normal skis/carbides (precison)?
It looks like the way these are designed the carbides take a heck of a beating.
I love the way they steer on anything but my god they turn way too hard. Ive got more adjusting to do still though.
I also did NOT use loctite on the main bolts through the spindles, im hoping with nyloc nuts that will be all good?
I know with the Ski Doo nuts on my precision loctite was a must. I found that out the hard way once when I lost a ski.
Finally, did I hurt the mounts? I put them on and there was a good amount of slop/gap/clearance on both sides that simply closed up when I tightened up the bolts. I have the lightweight HP mounts.
[snapback]295076[/snapback]​
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
darn, now me and Eric both need to know which way the fat part goes?
Whats the number to USI again?
 
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I put on my px-301's and used the stock Rev rubbers.On mine sled anyway there isn't a thicker part front or back it is the same both sides so it doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sorry I didnt follow up better. YES I called USI and the thicker part goes to the front. Rick (USI) did say that there isnt enough difference to really matter but they are suppose to go to the front.
He also said loctite isnt needed.
And to fix the heavy steering effort: let out limiter strap one hole, crank center shock way up, bend carbides between 4th and 5th studs then make 5th stud paralell to the rest w/box wrench.
If we get some snow here in crappy Michigan I will do more testing but Im gonna try to not let out the limiter and not to bend carbides.
 
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