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PS! Just noticed I placed it in the wrong sub forum. Could moderator move it for me?

So.. Here is a hard one for you all.

We have a 2011 Tundra 600 LT Ace that has been in and out of shops for the past 3 years. Nobody can get it working.

Used to have problems with the infamous "brake sensor thinks brakes are applied", but I bypassed the sensor and worked fine for a good while (~1 year).

Diagnosis tool doesnt "give any relevant info" according to shops.

It starts most of the time.

It has a check engine lamp on (flashes i believe - didnt see it running for 2 years)

It can be driven carefully for a while whilst totally cold, wont move forward and only sputters when warm.

They have taken the engine apart several times, cant find anything.

I have replaced ALL sensors regarding fuel, air/map, oil pressure, water temp, crank position, etc.

I have measured the cable harness leading to all sensors, and cant find any faults.

After the last shop visit, we noticed some oil on the spark plug on MAG side of engine. Not sure if oil lamp is on, not running at the moment.

Today I tore the side off the engine, and double checked all sprockets near flywheel, everything ok there.

What should I do next? Replace the ECM and DESS module ? ( I have a spare in a different 600 ACE)

Open up the camshaft house? Shop told us they fixed the valveneedles on last visit there.. Could be oil in the cylinder because they made a mistake then?

There is no oil/fuel in the coolant.

Seems to be no coolant in the oil.

Edit: Put the engine back together,and added a starter..but it only clicks when i try to start. No error codes yet. Suggestions? Measuring 12,2V on battery,drops to 10,3 when i press the starter button.
 

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Keeping Skioutty on his toes...
2017 Ski doo Renegade 900...2022 Polaris Indy 137 XC 650
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Undo your coil wires one of the time see if you notice a difference in the engine running.... Coil failures have been more recent lately... As far as your battery and starter there have been some bad starters on earlier 600 and needed rebuilding or replacement because of oil leaking into them also make sure all your grounds are tight and connected and all fuses and relays are good
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So.

Got it running now, starter was working, just needed to top up the battery..

Now the following problems:

1) The check engine lamp is on constantly. No info on display.

2) There is some oil on the ignition coil/spark plug cover (I drained the engine, and re-filled oil yesterday. so it's new)

Engine seems to run ok, and allows to rev up. But I didnt try high rpm's since I dont have the drive belt on, and no coolant in the system yet (Wondering if I should tear the head off the engine.)
 

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Another update (Hello blog).

1) I got her running with a new ECM (borrowed from a LYNX 59 ACE).

2) No check engine lamp for maybe 20 minutes of riding/shutting down/idling. It has a hard time starting after it has been running for a while then stopped. Have to crank it for maybe 5-30 seconds.

Almost sounds like the engine is "bobbing" or that its flooded. (Most of the tests I did in a slight uphill).

3) Got the check engine lamp eventually (After 20-30 minutes),now it is constantly on. Engine still runs.

4) Swapped to the original ECM again, and it still starts and runs (but didnt previously). But check engine light still on.

A lot of blue exhaust/smoke, especially if I let it work up hill a bit. It gives a huge blue cloud around me. But it's coming only from the exhaust as far as I can tell.

The TPS or MAP seems a little "off", and it can shut down while idling, the RPM drops below 1000 and it stops.

Will pull the coils and check for oil.

Any ideas now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello blog.

Yet a new update.

I pulled the top cover, and found oil in the air tubes leading from engine back to the air filter.

Also, one of the screws holding the top cover was not tightened properly, and I suspect that the oil in the plug hole could be because of this.

But then again.. could oil pushing back to the oil filter cause the engine lamp? Or even oil on the spark plug/coil? Anyone know this for sure?

Kind of in the dark now. I really dont want to pull the camshafts ++ if this could be the problem.
 

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since it's smoking blue, piston rings could be wear out, how many mile or km, i work on honda with bad piston and it was smoking blue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
since it's smoking blue, piston rings could be wear out, how many mile or km, i work on honda with bad piston and it was smoking blue.
Hi there.

It has 12000 km on it. I was thinking the same, or that rings got "stuck" since it wasnt started for 3-4 years.

I did a 30 min test ride now after I put it back together, no problems.. can shut down and start easily. Still smoking blue.

Parked in garage for 15 minutes, and went back out.. now the check engine lamp is on and it is hard to start (20-30 seconds).

Going to check for oil in weird places again... thinking some kind of oil sensor could be acting up.
 

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Keeping Skioutty on his toes...
2017 Ski doo Renegade 900...2022 Polaris Indy 137 XC 650
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You never mentioned that it hadn't been started for 3 or 4 years and your first statement i hope that gas is not 3 or 4 years old.... You must have flushed the tank and put in new gasoline
 

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You never mentioned that it hadn't been started for 3 or 4 years and your first statement i hope that gas is not 3 or 4 years old.... You must have flushed the tank and put in new gasoline
Thank you for your concern. I emptied the gas and filled with new few days ago. First thing i did.

It broke down 4 years ago or so, and no shops got it running since..

Found some snow and got to test it proper now.
Check engine light was on.

IT was smoking A LOT from the exhaust when there was resistance and i applied the throttle. It felt sluggish and weak, and maxes at 6300 rpm on blank ice.

And guess what.. I filled 2 liters of oil at home before departure, and measured it to be right between min/max on the stick.

After 30 mins of testing it felt more responsive, and I decided to shut down and start her up again, and the check engine lamp was off.

I was sure this was good news until i checked for oil.. Because there is no oil left now.. Guess it burned it all thru the cylinder(s)..

Might be broken/warped head, head gasket, some oil seals,or something else funny I dont think of...

I am not familiar with the ACE, or the 4-stroke in general..
Never went deeper then the top cover.. Guess it's time.

Any good ideas?
 

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Thank you for your concern. I emptied the gas and filled with new few days ago. First thing i did.

It broke down 4 years ago or so, and no shops got it running since..

Found some snow and got to test it proper now.
Check engine light was on.

IT was smoking A LOT from the exhaust when there was resistance and i applied the throttle. It felt sluggish and weak, and maxes at 6300 rpm on blank ice.

And guess what.. I filled 2 liters of oil at home before departure, and measured it to be right between min/max on the stick.

After 30 mins of testing it felt more responsive, and I decided to shut down and start her up again, and the check engine lamp was off.

I was sure this was good news until i checked for oil.. Because there is no oil left now.. Guess it burned it all thru the cylinder(s)..

Might be broken/warped head, head gasket, some oil seals,or something else funny I dont think of...

I am not familiar with the ACE, or the 4-stroke in general..
Never went deeper then the top cover.. Guess it's time.

Any good ideas?
Guy i know had the same smoke issue on his 600 Skandic. Found a missing o-ring next to the camshaft, allowed oil to pump into the air box along the crank breather tube.
Every time rpm came up it would billow smoke and sputter.
The o-ring is cheap, just some labour to get it replaced.
 

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I recommend buying candoo

it can read the codes and clear them

and does other good stuff

I bet you have a bad sensor

or tps out of spec

http://candoopro.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Guy i know had the same smoke issue on his 600 Skandic. Found a missing o-ring next to the camshaft, allowed oil to pump into the air box along the crank breather tube.
Every time rpm came up it would billow smoke and sputter.
The o-ring is cheap, just some labour to get it replaced.
Do you happen to know which O ring this was? I didnt see anything obvious when i had it open.

Did he remove the camshaft before discovering the issue?
 

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It's called a V-ring on the parts break down, opposite end of the cam gear. Brown ring, keeps the oil from blowing into the breather tube and into the air intake.
 
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