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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to drop some pounds off my RT1000, I added Floats and now I'm thinking about a barkbuster or westcoast sleds front end kit, They seem pretty much the same.

Anyone running either ? Who has the best price out there on them ? Most important is there another option out there that I'm missing.

I would like to do a skid too but don't have that much coin right now.
 

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Looking to drop some pounds off my RT1000, I added Floats and now I'm thinking about a barkbuster or westcoast sleds front end kit, They seem pretty much the same.

Anyone running either ? Who has the best price out there on them ? Most important is there another option out there that I'm missing.

I would like to do a skid too but don't have that much coin right now.
I run West Coast Sleds front A-Arm kit on my mountain sled. The quality is top notch and it is built to last. I would highly recommend their stuff.
 

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Looking to drop some pounds off my RT1000, I added Floats and now I'm thinking about a barkbuster or westcoast sleds front end kit, They seem pretty much the same.

Anyone running either ? Who has the best price out there on them ? Most important is there another option out there that I'm missing.

I would like to do a skid too but don't have that much coin right now.
The timbersled arms do not have a turn stop and damages the spindle after short time.I have also seen the West Coast set and very strong setup.
 

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Here are some shots of the West Coast Sleds stuff on my mountain sled.



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies, I think the westcoast is cheaper too. Now Maize a have you got to ride yours yet? I followed the build but never heard a ride report, I know they both increase the turning radius but does the ratio increase? I don't want to increase the steering effort at all.

Also Maize I see your running a stock length shock, I'm running 18" floats right now and do not want to buy new shocks. Do you recall how much free droop the arms had? I do not want the balljoints to be the limiter, or they will just wear out fast.
 

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Thanks for the replies, I think the westcoast is cheaper too. Now Maize a have you got to ride yours yet? I followed the build but never heard a ride report, I know they both increase the turning radius but does the ratio increase? I don't want to increase the steering effort at all.

Also Maize I see your running a stock length shock, I'm running 18" floats right now and do not want to buy new shocks. Do you recall how much free droop the arms had? I do not want the balljoints to be the limiter, or they will just wear out fast.
Yeah, I am running the stock HPGs with titanium springs. Running this combo (without the ressies) is actually a couple of ounces lighter than running the floats. I added the ressies so I can ditch bang it here, and then go to the mountains.

You will need to go with a 17" or the front will sit a lot higher. The stance is narrower on the Summits, and the WCS will require a 17" shock for proper stance.

Do you have the EVOLs or first generation? If they are the EVOLs, I think you can adjust the ride height on those. The first generation you will need to have them shortened.

I haven't riden them, yet. A couple of guys I ride have been riding them for a couple of seasons now. I have seen them take some abuse that left the Yamaha guys stranded. That is the reason I went with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 1000's sit too low in the front, that was the reason I went with 18" shocks. I had to make the upper ball joint work to avoid bind at full droop but they work great. I'm OK with the height, I just don't want to have the ball joint binding up when the front end is off the ground or when one ski up in the air boondocking or side hillin.
 

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The Timbersled front requires the stop nut on the ball joint to sit square or flat faced with the spindle to avoid the pointy edge of the nut from digging in to it. However the front end turns so sharp I just can't see how often you would hit it except turning at slow speeds to get around something.
 
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