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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK here it goes. when i got home from work tonight i decided to change out my pin weights. And i didn't mark the inside belt face to the outside belt face does that matter? Or do you just have the have the outside arrow's lined up with each other? Please help.
 

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on the back side of the stationary portion of the sheave(engine side) there are numbers from one to 12 I think, you are to line up the arrows on the movable half with the number one on the stationary sheave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
REV Renegade 04 said:
on the back side of the stationary portion of the sheave(engine side) there are numbers from one to 12 I think, you are to line up the arrows on the movable half with the number one on the stationary sheave.
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ok i might have to get a mirror to see in there. Also what is the best thing to clean with i wiped everything out as good as i could and blow it out. I wish i would have came in and read ttabs forum again, but i guess you live and learn i bet i will remember next time. Thanks for the help
 

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on mine the timing notch is right over the number (1) it may not line up exactly because of the spline position but it will still be on number one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
REV Renegade 04 said:
on mine the timing notch is right over the number (1) it may not line up exactly because of the spline position but it will still be on number one.
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I think i am going to wait till tomorrow to put it back together. What is the best way to tighten it back up? I used the tie down strap to get it off. And i don't have a torque wrench prolly need one of them too huh. Torque is to 79 lbs is that correct?
 

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that is what I used but yes you need to buy a torque wrench. the procedure is torque to 55 lbs then start the engine and run track on a stand to attain 20-30 kph or 12-20 mph and hit the brake hard, do this 5 times then torque to 74 ft.lbs. don't forget to move the tie down out of the way when you run the engine. good luck and buy a click stop type torque wrench not the kind that you have to see in order to use. cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
REV Renegade 04 said:
that is what I used but yes you need to buy a torque wrench. the procedure is torque to 55 lbs then start the engine and run track on a stand to attain 20-30 kph or 12-20 mph and hit the brake hard, do this 5 times then torque to 74 ft.lbs. don't forget to move the tie down out of the way when you run the engine. good luck and buy a click stop type torque wrench not the kind that you have to see in order to use. cheers
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Thank you for the help. i will head to town in the morning. I wonder if there is going to be a big difference in anything with the heavier pin weights and the clicker set at 3. it used to be set at clicker 1 and it would over rev. also what do you use to clean it out?
 

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I have never used a torque wrench on my primary or secondary for that matter. Just tighten them down really snug and you will be fine. Just line up the arrows with the notch on the back of the fixed half.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got her all done today. Seem a little more snappy. But didn't ride much just wanted to test it. I have to say again thanks everyone for the help. Should be getting my Team clutch pretty soon. I hope that make a big difference.
 
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