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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Mach Z 1000 SDI Suspension

The 2006-2007 Mach Z X had the best ride out of all three model years. Not bad, but with the advent of the latest 2022 Mach Z 900TR, it may be time up the game. So far it has all been about the CVT and engine reliability, and the suspension means very little if the engine does not work. On the same token, if the suspension and ride is not known to be excellent, then there is no incentive to get the engine working reliably. This is a perfect example of the chicken and egg idiom.

The following is what I have for the suspension setup provided by Hygear. I have not done this, so please allow me to filter the information for anyone who wishes to take advantage of a setup that was once deemed top of the line for the Mach Z RT. In red are the quotes from BlueMax that I used to verify with Hygear this afternoon if they were accurate. I told them that I was on DooTalk and asked if it was accurate enough to share. I was told it was fine and they can still supply this setup on special demand. In other words there is currently no demand, so they don't have anything ready to ship. The point for this post is that it can still be done.

Quotes from BlueMax

The aftermarket shock setups use longer shocks with greater travel but build in sag (like racing ATV suspension) to maintain the original lower ride height.

By using multiple springs and valving, the aftermarket setups eliminate Mach Z bottoming. There are other advantages due to the additional shock length and travel when crossing lakes at high speeds since the skis remain in contact with the snow instead of remaining in the air.
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/213028-fed-up-with-yamahas/#entry1694595

The front HPG shocks came with triple springs, center HPG shock ran dual springs and the rear was either an HPG or Ohlin. Those Hygear shock systems are hard to beat for the Mach Z.
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/878969-shock-questions/#entry9231777
 

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Mach Z 1000 SDI Suspension

The 2006-2007 Mach Z X had the best ride out of all three model years. Not bad, but with the advent of the latest 2022 Mach Z 900TR, it may be time up the game. So far it has all been about the CVT and engine reliability, and the suspension means very little if the engine does not work. On the same token, if the suspension and ride is not known to be excellent, then there is no incentive to get the engine working reliably. This is a perfect example of the chicken and egg idiom.

The following is what I have for the suspension setup provided by Hygear. I have not done this, so please allow me to filter the information for anyone who wishes to take advantage of a setup that was once deemed top of the line for the Mach Z RT. In red are the quotes from BlueMax that I used to verify with Hygear this afternoon if they were accurate. I told them that I was on DooTalk and asked if it was accurate enough to share. I was told it was fine and they can still supply this setup on special demand. In other words there is currently no demand, so they don't have anything ready to ship. The point for this post is that it can still be done.

Quotes from BlueMax

The aftermarket shock setups use longer shocks with greater travel but build in sag (like racing ATV suspension) to maintain the original lower ride height.

By using multiple springs and valving, the aftermarket setups eliminate Mach Z bottoming. There are other advantages due to the additional shock length and travel when crossing lakes at high speeds since the skis remain in contact with the snow instead of remaining in the air.
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/213028-fed-up-with-yamahas/#entry1694595

The front HPG shocks came with triple springs, center HPG shock ran dual springs and the rear was either an HPG or Ohlin. Those Hygear shock systems are hard to beat for the Mach Z.
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/878969-shock-questions/#entry9231777
You should start a suspension thread

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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You should start a suspension thread

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I second that! Charles, my 14 year old Adrenaline shocks are starting to let me down a little when following Mike. Let me know when we have a consensus and what's the best performance bargain is for my Rene.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
I second that! Charles, my 14 year old Adrenaline shocks are starting to let me down a little when following Mike. Let me know when we have a consensus and what's the best performance bargain is for my Rene.
I think the Renegade with its long tunnel and larger heat exchanger is a good condidate for an Expert model type upgrade. Just add the Summit chaincase ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Dealers do not want to work on the 1000 SDI

Unfortunately this is still a reality. I have heard this story too many times. Owner goes to the dealer for service and gets literally laughed at for owning a Mach Z and is told to get rid of it. This is from multiple dealers and independent shops. We may make it look easy, but if you go out there to get service, expect stones and buses thrown at you from everyone around you including those you consider to be your best friends. No one will support you other than one in 1000 who experienced the various things to keep an eye on.

I was not kidding when titling the topic The Downfall of the 1000 SDI.

Below is a recent example of what someone with Mach Z experience has accomplished with the E-TEC after battling the 1000 SDI. The example is from Alaska, so this is happening from East to West.

how to swap ecu?
Started By alaskan9974, Feb 22 2021 08:43 PM
 

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Dealers do not want to work on the 1000 SDI

Unfortunately this is still a reality. I have heard this story too many times. Owner goes to the dealer for service and gets literally laughed at for owning a Mach Z and is told to get rid of it. This is from multiple dealers and independent shops. We may make it look easy, but if you go out there to get service, expect stones and buses thrown at you from everyone around you including those you consider to be your best friends. No one will support you other than one in 1000 who experienced the various things to keep an eye on.

I was not kidding when titling the topic The Downfall of the 1000 SDI.

Below is a recent example of what someone with Mach Z experience has accomplished with the E-TEC after battling the 1000 SDI. The example is from Alaska, so this is happening from East to West.

how to swap ecu?
Started By alaskan9974, Feb 22 2021 08:43 PM
The truth is they dont know how...lol and they aint got time to loose....They move sled and most peeps changing every 2 years....crazy i know.... Qualified tech in anyfield is something rarer and rarer.....
 

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The truth is they dont know how...lol and they aint got time to loose....They move sled and most peeps changing every 2 years....crazy i know.... Qualified tech in anyfield is something rarer and rarer.....
And they don't have any advantage. You may not remember that I had brought my engine to Saint-Germain on a Friday, and all the things that I was told was so gnawing at me on my way home that I returned early the next morning to pick it up. It was 10 hours for both trips lol The following week I made a 6 hour return trip to take my engine out of my trunk to set it on the counter in front of you personally asking you to get it properly inspected. How much time did it take, 30min maybe an hour? You brought it back and showed me the obvious problems. <Charles, with your thumb nail you can obviously see the wear on the pto end bore is not right.> I was literally dumb struck as I had never had to deal with these things in the past. What got to me is when you said the cases were shot, the crankshaft was shot, the monoblock was shot, and the pistons/rings were shot. This was still a running engine lol

At least Saint-Gremain - and we are not going to mention names - I was told it needed a couple of used oem pistons................ You essentially told me that it was so far gone it was a lost cause! You gave me l'heure juste (aka an honest account) which I am eternally grateful. Ironically I was had never been as..... not happy with foul language as those 3 hours riding back home. Oddly I needed to edit to avoid even the explanation to foul language. Hopefully foul is not a bad word lol

There is a reason why Rx7MachZ and I have spent years sorting through this mess. We have earned the advantage, but I do not believe many realize what advantage this can be. For this reason when someone asks me if they should buy one, my instincts tell me heck no! Who is going to stand beside you when a big rod craps? You are not going to find solace with online. The best you can do is what you did for me, and maybe it will eventually translate for the next guy.

BRP told me to find a sponsor asap. You were my first sponsor, then came RX7MachZ, BlueMax, and later [email protected] I can count the number of people who care on one hand. Obviously there are many more who get it, but today I have only two people to count on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
The sponsor effect

Since 2012 Rx7MachZ and I have been working towards simplifying what we do to make the 1000 SDI reliable. BlueMax was the obvious driving force to keep the focus on making sure the engine was working right and much attention on the CVT. I got lucky and seen him work his magic for 3 full years which was essentially shouldering newbies like myself.

Rx7MachZ was an original owner with experience in factory setup engine failures. When I first met him his Mach Z had pod filters, wiring mods, fuel pressure gauge and a wideband. For this past 2021 season - 9 years later - he ran a Mach Z with none of this and crossed the 5,000 mile mark with no issues. Ironically he was back to a factory setup. It the end it was all about being comfortable with the engine and knowing how to avoid the pitfalls.

If you decide to attempt this on your own by simply reading the archives, or if you develop an unquenchable thirst to find the perfect recipe, then I wish you luck.
 

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Wiring Mods

Battery ground and ground loops

Ground Loops


The above links are the references I have for you to read before making any wiring mods on the 1000 SDI. I helped IcutMetl to sort through a wiring mess done by a local shop that made a poor attempt at the notorious wiring mod on this forum. It was easy for me since I had done my own wiring mod, and I knew the notorious wiring mod by heart. It was the first and last time that I would do this. Fortunately it worked, but it was still not right of me to do this.

The short version, the only wire that should reach the battery ground pole is the one that attaches to the frame - aka Chassis Ground.

Ok, so you may have wired the heated visor directly to the battery and never had a problem in over 20 years. I am a believer that it is your sled and do what you like. At the very least I ask to try to understand why the OEMs for all autos and powersports wire the grounds the way they do. This way you can read through the wiring mods and realize what was said about the OEMs shaving a few pennies was complete BS. Several posts back I did mention BRP's own wiring mod for the 1000 SDI, but this was simply a larger wire and not a change in circuits.

For a comparison, imagine a friendly and self proclaimed electrical expert wiring a outlet for your entertainment unit to the same circuit as the sump pump or washing machine. Both of these appliances cause a surge in the wiring circuit due to the inductive load when the motor starts. In other words the voltage drops. The thing is this surge can also backfeed through the sensitive electronics of the entertainment unit.

I am only asking to think through any wiring mods. In 2021 there are thousands more resources that can be found online.

How To Properly Ground An Automotive Electrical System
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
RX7MachZ is back to the Basics

This past 2021 season I missed something cool due to Covid-19 cross-border travel restrictions. Stock Mach Z setup with a fresh 2007 Sea Map, and the 2007 BRP's own ground upgrade. No Wideband, no EGTs and no Fuel Pressure gauge. The only added gauge was a Volt Gauge, which we both agree it should be standard on all sleds.

I have had to learn how to work on Mach Z' with none of these gauges, but I cannot say that I was overly confident. So when I saw RX7MachZ pull it off on his own sled, I was impressed. It was made possible with a simple change of the LP pump and making sure the injectors were flowing correctly near the time of the first ride of the season.

Please don't make the mistake of seeing this as a suggestion or any kind of mod. The only point is to show that RX7MachZ learned his 1000 SDI well enough to eliminate the major source of problems and bring it down the basics similar to how it was sold. It does have 3 years of BRP upgrades, an MCB crankshaft, his LP pump and location of choice, the oil consumption corrected similar to an 800R E-TEC, and XPS Mineral oil. It even has the stock CVT calibration, but tuned with enough tip weight to bring the maximum engine rpm down to around 7900 rpm which gives it good power and lowers the speed of the crankshaft.

In my opinion this is about as stock as it gets with only minor changes and adjustments. This is something that he worked to achieve and made it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Similar Ground issues on the 1200 4-TEC

When only reading the Mach Z forum, one thing that repeats are poor grounds and corrosion in various contacts. Unfortunately it leaves the wrong impression with the RT being isolated and plagued with these issues which is far from the case. The 1200 4-TEC - at least the 2009 to 2015 model years - uses the same ECM and similar electrical architecture with the same electromagnetic relays.

Below is a recent example for a 213 1200 4-TEC. The same problems can be seen on the 600/800/1000 SDI. The one electromagnetic relay on the E-TEC was removed for model year 2013+ . The E-TEC was also left with only two fuses - one for Battery Charging and the other for Start/RER - and still unprotected from the elements like the RT with the 30A fuse on top of the battery tray.

Hi batt message
Started By Russholio, Feb 09 2021 02:36 PM

Electrical Fuse Box on the G4 E-TEC

The E-TEC on the G4 was given two additional fuses over the previous E-TEC - Battery Charging - Start/RER - Loads - Accessories. This time all the fuses were well protected from the elements in a small sealed fuse box. During our last trip up Northern Quebec I got to work trailside on a 2019 850 and test the voltage on each fuse in an attempt to see why the gauge cluster and grip warmers were not working. It ended being a problem with the gauge cluster which was later replaced by the dealer under warranty.

It did show me two things, how much better the fuse box had gotten over the years, and the grip warmers were totally dependent on a working gauge cluster. Having this happen on a remote trip far away from any shop to make repairs, and at -20C (-4F) which soon dropped to -25C (-13F), it had me realized that we didn't have it so bad on the RT. The fuse box on the RT is somewhat open to the elements, but clean connections and dielectric grease is a simple cure. Even though this is not showing in the Shop Manuals, it is referred to in enough BRP bulletins for various sleds that I do not consider this as a mod, but rather a simple update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Key message for this Downfall topic

The main goal for starting this topic was and continues to provide a different perspective for the reliability of the RT 1000 SDI with the least amount of 'reliability mods' .

and even the possibility of having none if this is your goal.

I first joined after a referral from a member on HCS. Within 3 months I had make a long list of 'reliability mods' that many had shown on this forum as required. At the time I was seriously thinking of starting a topic that would list everything that I had gathered. Fortunately I second guessed myself and left the project in a draft form priot to going on a three day remote trip in Norther Quebec. During the trip my sled developed an odd vibration when cruising on light throttle that sounded like metal on metal which was not the clutch or exhaust springs. It was concerning to think my new to me sled was about to fall apart.

I got back on a Friday and the Saturnday morning at 8am I literally woke-up with the realization that I had already read this problem from a member named BlueMax. No symptoms were ever mentioned, only the likely hood of the left-rear engine mount bolts coming loose. I was so certain that this was the problem that I didn't even bother to check until later in the day. Instead I become more interested in taking a closer look at what he knew of the RT, and spent the morning reviewing his replies to see what I had missed.

Adding Failure Points

At the time I had no clue who BlueMax was, but I quickly learned that he had a whole different perspective on the RT than most. From there I began to pay far closer attention to the concepts. Within a short time I began to graps a new concept of adding failure points, and a move elusive one that goes like this: <Prove It>.

In 2012 I had the pleasure to get to know RX7MachZ in person. Unlike me, he was an original owner who had gone through engine failures, so I got to learn things about two strokes that I had not realized in racing, and were not made clear on the forum. In return I brought m own limited experience, more questions than answers, and these two concepts that we would begin to apply on the RT.

Unfortunately this is not something easily transferable to a forum as it does not account for each and every possible situation. A perfect example is what LP pump to choose and where to pace it. There are too many good options to focus on one perfect setup which in my opinion does not exist. Instead I prefer to show different options and show what pros&cons are known thus far.

The history of the Fuel Pressure Gauge

The installation of the Fuel Pressure Gauge stems from being stranded in the middle of a lake with a faulty LP pump. One of the objectives behind this topic is to help show why this happened, rather than answering if a fuel pressure gauge should be installed or not. This is a decision that in my opinion needs to be taken by the individual owners.

The objective of showing RX7MachZ who rode the 2021 season without a Fuel Pressure Gauge was to show it was possible if the Fuel System was made reliable. Only one of his three sleds is without this gauge, so there is a long history behind going this route. In other words I am not at all suggesting to install or not install one. Instead it has all to do with the reliability of the fuel system.

The BlueMax effect on two people

This topic is geared around a story of two people who have had to challenge each other and prove what needed to be done with the help of BlueMax who shouldered us for many years. I was lucky to have participated while BlueMax was still posting up until 2015. Guys like him with a impressive background who are there to help me on a public forum work through problems don't come around every day. RX7MachZ and I have adapted, but we both agree that it left an irreplacable void.

That was polite way of saying we felt he dropped us. I am not convinced that he ever understood the impact he had. Between 2012 and 2013 I did get the impression that he had contributed enough and only stayed on to help the new crowd to get an upper hand. The writing on the wall is probably the most accurate idom that I can think of. We would post things as best as we understood them, and anticipate his reply. When the time came sometime in 2015 when his replies stopped, it was like the overdrive gearing had been stripped causing a loss of top end. Fortunately he left us with 11 years of knowledge and help on an idividual level.

The Originals

Fortunately there are still some of you originals that are posting on this forum. In my opinion, you have a responsibilty to stay despite any difference in opinion. It is difficult when seemingly opposed from to a current trend. This is the reason that I am meticulous with the attempt to avoid contradicting mods that have proven to work for others, and also avoid contradicting the original owners who made it work with very little if any changes.

Mr Gutz, you are an original in a category of your own which I will leave as a compliment. Heckhole is another that I learned so much from, and the list goes on and on.

Scott @ MCB Performance

Considering that Scott @ MCB has taken the RT under his wing, this has been a positive note since BlueMax left the scene. Given that MCB is a DooTalk sponsor, I can talk about his efforts freely. In the very best discussion for forged pistons on the RT, That Girl Racing mentioned that we needed to figure out how to make the aftermarket pistons work before BRP quits selling OEM pistons for the 1000 SDI. So far it hasn't happened, but we do have two good choices, the OEM cast and the MCB designed Wossner forged piston.

More importantly, Scott has the final honing up to par for newly plated cylinders on two strokes.
 

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Is the SDI Knock Protection a FAIL???

Ever wonder why the SDI has never been great at protecting itself against bad gas?

The earliest accounts from March 15-17 of 2004 explained the first level of defense was to inject more gas through the low speed injectors, then using the high speed injectors as failsafe.

In a perfect world good 87 gas might causes knock and the added gas will extinguish the knock.

The big question at the time was, what happens when knock occurs due to bad gas?

Does it make sense to quench the knock with more bad gas???

Does this really matter? Obviously it does, especially considering that years later BRP remarked the shortcomings of this strategy on the SDI to boast the advancement with the P-TEK and E-TEC. Ironically in 2004 BRP had boasted the fuel enrichment strategy over the industry standard that retarded timing.

So unlike a carbureted P-TEK and direct injected E-TEC which both have the revised/improved knock strategy, vigilance is needed with the SDI. This is the main reason the injectors need to be kept cleaned. By making sure they are near 100% flow capacity, it provides the additional fuel to counter sub standard octane from long term storage which degrades the fuel through oxidation and lower RVP. See the latest Ski-Doo Operator's Guide for the mention of these things.

Below are the earliest conversations on Knock Protection, and only ones that I found that were not quoted from the Shop Manuals. If you follow the two threads there was once a link to the BRP web site. Understandably the info has since been deleted and never again to be found. Hence this is the only point of reference left. And in case that also gets deleted one day, I quoted it below.

Note how Thumbdoctor and Revrnd were first on the ball with the knock protection of the SDI, and as early as March of 2004. It is a piece of history that should not be forgotten.

===============================

Bombardier / Rotax 1 Liter Twin

Discussion Starter • #1 Mar 17, 2004
Posted by Thumbdoctor

I was talking to a fellow at the race shop the other day and found out some features of the new 1000cc engine. It sounded like he was reading a press release so this stuff may already be in print.

1) Has replaceable cylinder head domes
2) Has a crankshaft driven countershaft to reduce vibration
3) Has reverse flow liquid cooled crankcase
4) Employs latest knock sensor technology adding high flow injector duty cycle to reduce detonation through combustion cooling while maintaining optimum ignition timing.

I have been scowering the info sources to get more and I will post as I find out.

#2 Mar 17, 2004
Posted by CORY9

We just had a discussion with regards to detonation control on the 600 SDI. Seems odd they choose to richen the fuel mixture rather than retard timing. Yes, a richer mixture would reduce combustion chamber temperatures, but what if the cause of the knock is fuel quality/contamination? How rich would your fuel/air mixture have to be if it's poor fuel?

The crank driven counterweights seem like a interesting alternative to a balance shaft. Time will tell if they can successfully absorb the big mills vibrations.

#3 Mar 17, 2004
Posted by Thumbdoctor

According to Rotax, the fuel mapping first employs the low flow / low speed injector as soon as deto frequency is detected (milliseconds before real detonation) which usually takes care of the problem. The second injector is only called into action if the failsafe mode is required. Keep in mind that most two stroke spark curves pull out advance at higher RPMs so poor fuel or contaminated fuel will net the same results, the ECM can only retard timing so much. The only disadvantage is the system won't alert the operator when failsafe measures are called in. The operator will never hear the pinging so he may stay on the bar. As said b4 time will tell.

5) PTO seal is serviceable without splitting the cases and is retained by a snap ring

===============================

Knock Sensor Operation

Discussion Starter • #1 Mar 15, 2004
Posted by revrnd

I lifted this from another site & was wondering if this is correct. I hadn't read any explanation as to what happens w/ the SDI sleds if "knock" is detected.

<On a SDI when detonation is detected (knock sensor), the fuel mixture is richened in an effort to correct the situation. Higher octane will reduce this occurance, thus can increase fuel mileage in some cases. Other makes retard ignition timing.>

#3 Mar 15, 2004
Posted by revrnd

That's what I was thinking too. When I picked up my sled in Dec. & asked the dealer what would I do if I was in Buttplug, Ontario 80 miles from Hearst & all they had was 87 octane. He said, "You'll be putting that in won't you?" I said yes, it would be a long tow to get 91.

That being said, I think any of us would naturally take it easy on the throttle if we had to run 87 for a time. No 5 mile, throttle to the bar runs in -30*C temps.

#5 Mar 15, 2004
Posted by revrnd

Although most of my EFI knowledge is out of the automotive venue, it has always been understood that a knock sensor would retard ignition timing. Have never heard of richening the fuel mixture, especially when the knock could conceivably occur due to fuel quality/contamination.

#10 Mar 16, 2004
Posted by BellevilleMXZ

Yes a little richer on the fuel will stop deto, but it doesn't make sense to do it that way, as if you got into some bad gas, its REALLY going to deto, and you would have to dump a ton of fuel to it to cure it,and end up with fouled plugs, and real high emmissions. Sounds to me like bogus info.Why would they dump a whole ton of fuel to it, when they could pull a few deg. timing out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
After 19 pages, are you beginning to see the full picture?

With so much to know about this engine, are you beginning to see that there is so much more than a number of prominent reliably mods?

There was a time when we would see folks on this Mach Z forum post topics that they had done <all> of the <reliability mods> and their engines still failed! The premise of those topics were to tell us on this forum that they were disappointed with the results.

Hence The Downfall of the 1000 SDI.
 

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In the past few years I've had the opportunity to meet many of the RT owners whom frequent this forum. Idk how many to be exact: 6-8 or so. I've met even more owners at trail stops whom had never heard of DooTalk. Some didn't know that their 1k had a reputation of being problematic. The've put down 1000's of miles without any issues.

Whats causes a percentage of sleds to be problematic lemons while many more are reliable year after year? The truth is that there's no simple answer.

My sled would eat oem LP pumps and subsequently engines almost as fast as I could break them in. Why??? I feel the sled wasn't getting enough current to the LP pump through the factory harness causing the LP pump to fail. I switched to an E8012S pump running off the battery through a relay and haven't had that LP pump fail since (2009). That sled also had handwarmer issues.... I ran extra grounds then the handwarmers worked. There was definitely an issue deep within that wiring harness. I've since switched to an 07 harness.

Other owners sleds have blown engines... then the owners installed a new engine in the chassis without knowing what caused the initial failure resulting in a second failure. The cause of a failure must be determined before installing a new engine!!!!!

Here is a simple but strong recommendation: If the 1k sticks a piston you should replace the crankshaft. Do not just through a new piston in the engine. The lower rod bearing almost always sustains damage and will fail within approximately 800 miles. Also the base will have lots of metallic crud inside it from the failed piston. No matter how much the lower base is cleaned.... A lot of crud will remain. I've tested this and seen it first hand by cleaning it repeatedly then splitting the base to find a lots of metal bits still in there.

Rebuild after rebuild after rebuild. When the 1k is rebuild don't reuse anything that hasn't been careful inspected. Pretty much you'll need pistons, wrist pins, clips, cylinder replating and a crankshaft. Gaskets and other things go without saying. Locktight, molycoat 111, case seal 1211, silicone etc. DON'T CUT CORNERS! Many repeated failures are caused by improper or partial repairs I've seen improper or partial rebuilds fail seasonally. I even warned the last guy..... He had a crank fail after replacing a stuck piston. I had warned him in person.... The result: A second failure and a cracked lower case.

Listen to that engine. You can hear the E-raves open. The sound and power surge is very distinct. If it doesn't feel/sound right then investigate then and there.

E-rave guillotines do wear out and when that happens they ruin the piston and rings by rubbing on them. Inspect or replace them after 7k miles. There are plenty of low mileage sets on ebay.

Oil. Engines love oil. The 1k loves oil, Make it happy and give it plenty of its life fluid: OIL. Burning an extra gallon or two of oil annually is definitely worth the cost. Your engine will love you for it. I always tell people "Oil is far less expensive than a crankshaft and set of pistons". My recommendation is 32:1 mineral.

I could write volumes about this sled. It's been my go to sled since 2007. Over 16k miles down with many more to go.

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I have reached my Goal

There will always be more things to share, but if this topic were to end today I could honestly say that I have reached my goal in providing a different perspective that was fueled by BlueMax, and made possible by RX7MachZ' tenacity.

Maxmachz, I know that the stock setup counts for you, and to be honest your take on the 1000 SDI has always remained at the back of my mind. That is what made it so important for me to find what I could on the big end rod bearing. I hope that you appreciate how much of an impact this has had. You are one of the two people that I know who has detected a big end rod failure prior to self destruction. RX7MachZ was the other. I also have the engine of an owner like you who has detected a center bearing failure prior to self destruction, and of those types I have found others on DooTalk who detected the same prior to self destruction.

In 2020 and 2021, I was pleased to see RX7MachZ has met the challenge by detecting multiple head o-ring failures prior to self destruction, and in most cases prior to any damage. There are many others, but I can only speak for those that I know.

I have done my own work with early diagnoses much like BigBoy69 with coolant ingestion, but never to the level that you guys have reached. In was a long road, but one worth taking.
 

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I've said it here before and will again, I've ran into numerous 1k's on the trails and only 1 owner had a basketcase 1000sdi. Even the dealers around me said they 'heard of' the issues and repeated failures, but had not experienced any issues with the 1000sdi.
Exactly

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so far so good for me......after total motor rebuild and 1700 miles this year...no issue to mention. :rolleyes: but don`t get me wrong ....my way of riding is a lot different than others.... ;)
 
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