Is this on your 94 STX?
temp gauge
i just installed a temp gauge and a new sending unit and it dosenot work is their a way to check the gauge with a tester ( this is a used gauge ) or not. i went though a made sure that all connections are clean and making good connection,i also disconnected the dummy light. any suggestions ? the gauge light is the only thing i have working, is it posable that the wires in the plug for the gauge are mixed up maybee from the preveus owner, and can anyone give me the combo of what color wires go from plug to plug just to make sure i have all the right wires going to the right one.
thanks mark
thanks mark
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yes it is sorry i didnot mention that
initial thought: wrong sender
run the sender under increasingly warm water - you should see a change in resistance at the two terminals as the unit heats up - somewhere near 60 Ohms if I remember correctly - don't quote me on that. If you have the wrong send as I fear, you'll see and infinite (open = OL) resistance until you reach about 90*C or or more and then you'll measure a short.
P
run the sender under increasingly warm water - you should see a change in resistance at the two terminals as the unit heats up - somewhere near 60 Ohms if I remember correctly - don't quote me on that. If you have the wrong send as I fear, you'll see and infinite (open = OL) resistance until you reach about 90*C or or more and then you'll measure a short.
P
that and did you unplug the light? (uses the same wiring).
mpstx said:i also disconnected the dummy light.
thanks mark
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Good thinking!that and did you unplug the light? (uses the same wiring).
i'll try putting it in water and messure it and see how many ohms it reads.
i did put a used sending unit in from a freind that he said it came out of a 583 so it's possable it my be the wrong one,anyone got a part # for it.
as far as the gauge gose anyway to check this with the ohm meter.
and i did unplug the temp light already
i did put a used sending unit in from a freind that he said it came out of a 583 so it's possable it my be the wrong one,anyone got a part # for it.
as far as the gauge gose anyway to check this with the ohm meter.
and i did unplug the temp light already
Yikes...I just bought a used temp gauge and sender too... I hope mine works. This is what I know. Motor size does not matter as long as the sender fits in the cylinder head tapping. The gauge is driven by the variable resistance of current passing through the sender. This means that the sender and the gauge MUST be a matched engineered set. Maybe your friends sender is not the oem match for your gauge. The gauges very rarely go bad. You probably just need to buy the correct sender for your gauge. Good luck.
someone else told me that so i call the dealer in monroe mi and they get 44.95 for a new one if this dose not work i'll buy a new gauge for another 68.00 bucks, i think i should have done this in the first place.
I have an 89 MX that I put a 670 from a Mach 1X in and I can't get a temp. gauge to work in it either. I've tried several different guages, and several different sending units.
mark i hope you come back to read this post. i went to put the temp gauge on my 97 formula500 today. guess what?...only the gauge light came on. after multiple curse words and tool throwing i decided to think. i know your sled is older than mine but this is what i found. the temp sender has two wires connected to it ,but it travels down to a 3 wire connector clipped to the engine. these wire colors are for my year sled but see what you think. the yellow/black is the power feed. doo uses different color wires for idiot lights or for gauges. my violet wire went to the idiot light. the green wire goes to the plug for the temp gauge. here is the trick...doo only feeds the output of the temp sender to one wire or the other. when i took the violet wire and connected it to the green wire on the oem temp gauge connector,the gauge worked. its hard to explain, but follow the wires from the temp sender down to its plug, and you should be able to see what i mean.
hey est142 i just read your post i'm going to go and look at it again but if you have a little more info it would be great. my wires going to the sender are yellow with a black tracer and that velvit wire also.
thanks mark
thanks mark
this is what i have:
yellow
velvit - wires go to dummy light
green
yellow
white
yellow with black tracer - go to plug coming off wireharness on sled by temp gauge.
brown - these wires coming off gauge
green
yellow
yellow with black tracer / red with yellow tracer go together for light on gauge, the green wire and yellow wire with black tracer go into plug as one.
yellow with black tracer
velvit - going to sender
i'm not vary good when it comes to wiring and don't wont to burn up anything
feel free to call me on my cell at 419 -356-7883 thanks mark
yellow
velvit - wires go to dummy light
green
yellow
white
yellow with black tracer - go to plug coming off wireharness on sled by temp gauge.
brown - these wires coming off gauge
green
yellow
yellow with black tracer / red with yellow tracer go together for light on gauge, the green wire and yellow wire with black tracer go into plug as one.
yellow with black tracer
velvit - going to sender
i'm not vary good when it comes to wiring and don't wont to burn up anything
feel free to call me on my cell at 419 -356-7883 thanks mark
hi. you can NEVER burn or short anything out permanently. the worst you can do is temporarily ground out the lighting coil magneto... and ONLY if you cross the yellow with the yellow/ black wire.do not be afraid to try connections.the following assumes your sled had the oem idiot light...not an oem temp gauge.
current goes from magneto down yel/blk wire to the temp sender.(you MUST install a TEMP GAUGE temp sender into the cylinder head...different from an idiot light sender). the violet then wire goes from the temp sender up to the idiot light. connect that violet wire from the idiot light up under the cowling, to the green wire of your temp gauge. connect the yellow temp harness plug wire to the yellow gauge wire. connect the yel/blk plug harness wire to the yel/blk gauge wire.connect the harness plug white wire to the gauge brown wire. they split the wires on that year and on my 97 . you really are only dealing with 3 different conductors.
yel/blk or white is 12 vac pos
yellow or brown is 12 vac grnd
green or violet is the 12 vac pos feed for the gauge or idiot light
green or violet are the output from the temp sender. doo used violet wire for the idiot light or green wire for the temp gauge.up under the cowling at the harness, violet will have the juice if your oem sled had the idiot light. green will have the juice if your oem sled already had a temp gauge to start with. just connect ithe wires how i said and if it does not work...your gauge is NG. the senders very rarely fail. you can test your sender by running it under hot water in the sink, while measuring the the two terminals for resistance. you will see it lower as it gets hotter. good luck.
current goes from magneto down yel/blk wire to the temp sender.(you MUST install a TEMP GAUGE temp sender into the cylinder head...different from an idiot light sender). the violet then wire goes from the temp sender up to the idiot light. connect that violet wire from the idiot light up under the cowling, to the green wire of your temp gauge. connect the yellow temp harness plug wire to the yellow gauge wire. connect the yel/blk plug harness wire to the yel/blk gauge wire.connect the harness plug white wire to the gauge brown wire. they split the wires on that year and on my 97 . you really are only dealing with 3 different conductors.
yel/blk or white is 12 vac pos
yellow or brown is 12 vac grnd
green or violet is the 12 vac pos feed for the gauge or idiot light
green or violet are the output from the temp sender. doo used violet wire for the idiot light or green wire for the temp gauge.up under the cowling at the harness, violet will have the juice if your oem sled had the idiot light. green will have the juice if your oem sled already had a temp gauge to start with. just connect ithe wires how i said and if it does not work...your gauge is NG. the senders very rarely fail. you can test your sender by running it under hot water in the sink, while measuring the the two terminals for resistance. you will see it lower as it gets hotter. good luck.
hi. you can NEVER burn or short anything out permanently. the worst you can do is temporarily ground out the lighting coil magneto... and ONLY if you cross the yellow with the yellow/ black wire.do not be afraid to try connections.the following assumes your sled had the oem idiot light...not an oem temp gauge.
current goes from magneto down yel/blk wire to the temp sender.(you MUST install a TEMP GAUGE temp sender into the cylinder head...different from an idiot light sender). the violet then wire goes from the temp sender up to the idiot light. connect that violet wire from the idiot light up under the cowling, to the green wire of your temp gauge. connect the yellow temp harness plug wire to the yellow gauge wire. connect the yel/blk plug harness wire to the yel/blk gauge wire.connect the harness plug white wire to the gauge brown wire. they split the wires on that year and on my 97 . you really are only dealing with 3 different conductors.
yel/blk or white is 12 vac pos
yellow or brown is 12 vac grnd
green or violet is the 12 vac pos feed for the gauge or idiot light
green or violet are the output from the temp sender. doo used violet wire for the idiot light or green wire for the temp gauge.up under the cowling at the harness, violet will have the juice if your oem sled had the idiot light. green will have the juice if your oem sled already had a temp gauge to start with. just connect ithe wires how i said and if it does not work...your gauge is NG. the senders very rarely fail. you can test your sender by running it under hot water in the sink, while measuring the the two terminals for resistance. you will see it lower as it gets hotter. good luck.
current goes from magneto down yel/blk wire to the temp sender.(you MUST install a TEMP GAUGE temp sender into the cylinder head...different from an idiot light sender). the violet then wire goes from the temp sender up to the idiot light. connect that violet wire from the idiot light up under the cowling, to the green wire of your temp gauge. connect the yellow temp harness plug wire to the yellow gauge wire. connect the yel/blk plug harness wire to the yel/blk gauge wire.connect the harness plug white wire to the gauge brown wire. they split the wires on that year and on my 97 . you really are only dealing with 3 different conductors.
yel/blk or white is 12 vac pos
yellow or brown is 12 vac grnd
green or violet is the 12 vac pos feed for the gauge or idiot light
green or violet are the output from the temp sender. doo used violet wire for the idiot light or green wire for the temp gauge.up under the cowling at the harness, violet will have the juice if your oem sled had the idiot light. green will have the juice if your oem sled already had a temp gauge to start with. just connect ithe wires how i said and if it does not work...your gauge is NG. the senders very rarely fail. you can test your sender by running it under hot water in the sink, while measuring the the two terminals for resistance. you will see it lower as it gets hotter. good luck.
hay est142 this secend post really clears things up i will give it a try on saterday and i will let you know how it turns out. it also looks like i'm not the only one haveing this problum. thanks man.
mark
mark
hay est142 one more question, the green wire coming off the gauge has the yellow with black tracer wire coming from the light and these two wires are going to the same post , do i still connect the velvit wire to this , and the other wire coming off the light is red with a yellow tracer, dose this wire still go to the same post in the 4 way connecter on the wireharness that is on the sled ? you never mentioned anything about this red wire with yellow tracer, i'm just making sure here, i'm really bugged out about burnimg something up. one of my buddies freinds said i could burn out the ignighter if something shorts out is this true ? he said its like 500.00 bucks to replace i dont know. feel free to call me. later man.
mark
mark
just a apdate on the temp gauge install,all is done and working good. after everones help on this i found out that the wires coming off the temp senser going to the 3 way connecter there is a green wire that is not being used so i swopped out the violet wire and hooked the green wire up and then hooked up the gauge wires as the wiring diagram shows ( in the clamer manual ) and bingo it works. i did not know this green wire was there untill i started reading wires with the ohm meter. hope this helps others out .
I just came in from running my new-to-me 1997 MXZ 670.
I ran it for about 5 minutes because it's finally cold enough here for me to let it run a little. I figured I'd put it on my truck to see if all my measurements I did when I put the sliders in the bed were right.
Anyway, my temp guage (stock as far as I know) didn't move at all. The hoses were warm and the heat exchangers were warm, so I know that it's circulating. The gauge didn't move at all.
Will it move once I start really running the sled or should it have come up some? It was getting late and I didn't want to bother the nieghbors.
I ran it for about 5 minutes because it's finally cold enough here for me to let it run a little. I figured I'd put it on my truck to see if all my measurements I did when I put the sliders in the bed were right.
Anyway, my temp guage (stock as far as I know) didn't move at all. The hoses were warm and the heat exchangers were warm, so I know that it's circulating. The gauge didn't move at all.
Will it move once I start really running the sled or should it have come up some? It was getting late and I didn't want to bother the nieghbors.
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