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I think I need some education on tuning this sled. I played a lot with the front and rear suspension over the first 2 days of riding it and I'm curious as to where guys are at with their settings. I'm about 225lbs geared up. Sled started out really soft on everything with the sag set to about 3" and 3 on the QA adjuster. I played around with the dampening as well and I have to be honest, I really didn't notice a lot of change. Is it just me? My front shocks started on spring setting 1 and about 10 clicks on each from softest setting. I ended up tightening them a bit more to 2 - noticed a little difference but again not a huge change like what i was expecting especially when adjusting dampening.

What is everybody doing for properly tuning these things for moderate-aggressive trail riding? This is my first r motion sled as well. I found that when trails were bumpy, I tightened up the QA to about 4 and it seemed to go over bumps pretty good and throw me around a little less. I certainly wasn't flying over the whoops like i was hoping to.

I guess what I'm asking here is how do you know you got it set right for the bumpier conditions, as smooth trail it really doesn't matter.
 

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Turn all settings back to the way factory set them and turn front rail shock one half inch tighter to one inch tighter and try that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I forgot what factory settings are ... I haven't played with front skid centre shock so that is where it was from factory. Everything else has been messed with but I need to probably start over again from full soft.

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I found the factory shocks way to weak for my stile riding. The rear shock had to slow of rebound. If you find turning up the preload you are creating a faster rebound. That's why it rides better on the bigger stuff but you lose the plush ride on the smaller stuff. A revalve and speeding up the rebound in the shock will allow you to stay in the proper sag range. My midddle shock also needed a revalve/faster rebound and a stiffer tender spring. Front shocks were to weak and need a stiffer valving.I also added the torsion spacers to my rear springs. I ride very fast and aggressive. Not saying this is for everyone, it worked for my stile of riding. There are a few great sponsers on here that work on shocks. Give one a holler they will set you up. Best money spent IMO.
 

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Great info bwep - thanks. I'm not a suspension or shock guru but i was hoping it would be perfect with all of this on-the-fly adjustability. I remember a while back I rode a buddies sled that literally was a whole different ball game when it came to bumps. It would hit hard and then you would immediately feel the sled suck the bump up with a super soft plush almost air-like kind of feeling. That's the only way i can describe it. I know this may seem like a ridiculous description but thats exactly what I'm looking for. Hard hit to super soft through the shock stroke. I remember it feeling really awesome over bigger bumps but i would fly over it no problem. His sled was an XR 1200 gade X package but no clue what was done with shocks and suspension setting. That's the "feeling" I'm looking for.
 

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I'm no expert either. Ian from Monster Performance took the time to listen to my needs and complaints. Helped explain to me what I was feeling and how to address it . He put all this together for me. Very happy with the outcome.
 

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I'm about the same weight. I went with the 287/289 springs with spacers. With the QA on 2.5-3 I have about 3" of sag. It is great for when the trails are fairly smooth, when they get mogul'd up, I cranked up to 4 and the sled only bottomed on the largest whoops.

As for the front I ran my springs about 1-1.5. The center spring is about half way or so. The coupling block is on 2.

I have my front clickers about 3 past the mid point to the hard side. Rear is centered.

TS skis about 2.5-3 turns down from the top.

Granted I have a 600etec, but my buddy has a 15' 1200X and runs a very similar setup. Sled rode like a top, cornered flat and push was not noticeable. Handles most whoops with no issues, only bottomed on the very large chop holes.

Based on your weight, I would look into spring spacers, or maybe a slightly stiffer torsion spring.

Need a bit more info?
- Is the sled bottoming out? Front/ rear
- are you pushing in the corners?
- is the steering heavy, any darting?
- where are your coupling blocks set at? Any ski lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just emailed Ian. I can't recall but I may have bottomed out the rear a few times on lower setting but not when I had it cranked up to 4. I do feel as though I'm feeling it too much through my arms and the sled should be taking it more up front. Rear didn't seem to bad but was definitely expecting a bit more, as everybody raves about r motion. My TS skis are cranked up to 4, front shocks are on 2 now and its not pushing and seems to bite pretty good. I will take a look to see where centre spring actually is. Coupling block is on 1.
 

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Great info bwep - thanks. I'm not a suspension or shock guru but i was hoping it would be perfect with all of this on-the-fly adjustability. I remember a while back I rode a buddies sled that literally was a whole different ball game when it came to bumps. It would hit hard and then you would immediately feel the sled suck the bump up with a super soft plush almost air-like kind of feeling. That's the only way i can describe it. I know this may seem like a ridiculous description but thats exactly what I'm looking for. Hard hit to super soft through the shock stroke. I remember it feeling really awesome over bigger bumps but i would fly over it no problem. His sled was an XR 1200 gade X package but no clue what was done with shocks and suspension setting. That's the "feeling" I'm looking for.
Shock tuning for your weight and riding style makes all the difference
 

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I'm about the same weight. I went with the 287/289 springs with spacers. With the QA on 2.5-3 I have about 3" of sag. It is great for when the trails are fairly smooth, when they get mogul'd up, I cranked up to 4 and the sled only bottomed on the largest whoops.

As for the front I ran my springs about 1-1.5. The center spring is about half way or so. The coupling block is on 2.

I have my front clickers about 3 past the mid point to the hard side. Rear is centered.

TS skis about 2.5-3 turns down from the top.

Granted I have a 600etec, but my buddy has a 15' 1200X and runs a very similar setup. Sled rode like a top, cornered flat and push was not noticeable. Handles most whoops with no issues, only bottomed on the very large chop holes.

Based on your weight, I would look into spring spacers, or maybe a slightly stiffer torsion spring.

Need a bit more info?
- Is the sled bottoming out? Front/ rear
- are you pushing in the corners?
- is the steering heavy, any darting?
- where are your coupling blocks set at? Any ski lift.
Don't be afraid of the rear shock clicker ! it can make a big difference and it's so easy with the q/a
 

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Don't be afraid of the rear shock clicker ! it can make a big difference and it's so easy with the q/a
I am gonna play more next time I am out. So far this year, every ride has been busy. Riding with a group that didn't stop long to make adjustments. Hoping to get some time out by myself in the next 2 weeks to experiment. I will definitely try the rear clicker. Thanks for he advice.
 

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I just emailed Ian. I can't recall but I may have bottomed out the rear a few times on lower setting but not when I had it cranked up to 4. I do feel as though I'm feeling it too much through my arms and the sled should be taking it more up front. Rear didn't seem to bad but was definitely expecting a bit more, as everybody raves about r motion. My TS skis are cranked up to 4, front shocks are on 2 now and its not pushing and seems to bite pretty good. I will take a look to see where centre spring actually is. Coupling block is on 1.
Your shocks should bottom out occasionally on really hard bumps. If they never bottom out you are not using the full stroke of the shock. If your arms are getting beaten up I suspect you have too much compression dampening dialed in on the front shocks. Put a zip tie on your shock rods by the shock body. Go for a hard ride and see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you if you are using the full stroke of the shock or not.
 

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Your shocks should bottom out occasionally on really hard bumps. If they never bottom out you are not using the full stroke of the shock. If your arms are getting beaten up I suspect you have too much compression dampening dialed in on the front shocks. Put a zip tie on your shock rods by the shock body. Go for a hard ride and see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you if you are using the full stroke of the shock or not.
Now there is a good idea. I'm gonna try the zip tie thing next time out.

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Have 1,300 miles on one new 1200 X and 1,000 on the other. Both have adjusters with TS skis and I weigh about 200.Took my wife and I about 700 miles or so to get them both dialed in how we like them. I have my front shocks on 3, mid shock about 1/2, rear quick adjust at 3 1/4, and block is on 1. I pretty much leave it there and adjust the skis to conditions. Really happy with the sleds ride, still playing with the dampening so looking to hear everyone's thoughts. Headed to Quebec this week to do some 300 mile days so just gonna play with rebound and hopefully figure it out...lol
 
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Have 1,300 miles on one new 1200 X and 1,000 on the other. Both have adjusters with TS skis and I weigh about 200.Took my wife and I about 700 miles or so to get them both dialed in how we like them. I have my front shocks on 3, mid shock about 1/2, rear quick adjust at 3 1/4, and block is on 1. I pretty much leave it there and adjust the skis to conditions. Really happy with the sleds ride, still playing with the dampening so looking to hear everyone's thoughts. Headed to Quebec this week to do some 300 mile days so just gonna play with rebound and hopefully figure it out...lol
Nice! Keep us posted on your results. I really don't notice any difference with dampening but I will try again this weekend.

I also spoke with Ian and he is recommending a set of his torsion spring spacers for the rear.
 

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Your shocks should bottom out occasionally on really hard bumps. If they never bottom out you are not using the full stroke of the shock. If your arms are getting beaten up I suspect you have too much compression dampening dialed in on the front shocks. Put a zip tie on your shock rods by the shock body. Go for a hard ride and see where the zip-tie ends up. That will tell you if you are using the full stroke of the shock or not.
Front shock clicker is rebound .... very little affect on compression
 

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This so depends on your riding style, what you carry and trail conditions.

  • Q/A springs, start at 2.5 and go from there. You may go as high as 4, as low as 2, unlikely you will go outside of this. This sets your rear SAG. The lower you can go the nicer ride, but you will also bottom more. This effects steering also. If you end up at 1, you may need lighter springs, if you end up at 4-5, you may need stiffer springs.
  • Rear Q/A compression. Start at 12 clicks out from fully CW. Bigger bumps and faster riding, start turning it in, don't be afraid to turn it all the way in if needed. If the speed and bumps are causing the sled to pitch around at the rear, turn it in.
  • Rear red coupler blocks, (1-4). Start at 2. If you need more bite in the turns or have to let off to steer, go to 3. If you want lighter steering in the turns, go to 1. If you want no weight transfer and the front to stay planted, go to 4. 1 has the nicest ride, 4 the worst. 2-3 works for most people.
  • Center Shock. When the sled is flat on the garage floor, loosen the pre-load until the spring is loose, tighten to put in 1/2 inch of pre-tension. You may go more if you ride hard too the sled stable, you will never go less. If you go more than an inch or so your ride quality will suffer. The center shock does a lot of work on these sleds. It controls rough trail compliance, roll in the turns, and steering effort. Bummer is on most models the only adjustment you have is spring pre-load.
  • Ski-Shock pre-tension. Start at 2. Good range is 1-3. Add some if you need to steer in deeper snow or are riding bigger bumps faster. Go down for slower speed or smooth conditions or for better small bump compliance. 4 becomes really stiff and will effect ride quality. 1 can effect lean in the turns. Use this adjustment for front end stability. In general go as soft as you can get away with.
  • Ski-Shock rebound, (effects compression some too), start at 12 out from fully CW. This will give a nice ride. If you start riding hard or bigger bumps start closing it down a few clicks at a time. Unlikely you will go lower than 4 out from fully CW. Most conditions and riders will like 8-14 out from CW.
  • Adjustable carbides. They have a 20 click range. The indicator on the side is 1-5, so 4 clicks per number. Fully CCW is retracted all the way. Start at 5 clicks from there. If it pushes, keep adding it in, (CW). You may have to go all the way in for conditions, fully CW). If it is darting bad, has really hard steering or is picking a ski all the time, start backing it out, (CCW).

izey91, on 16 Jan 2016 - 8:14 PM, said:

I think I need some education on tuning this sled. I played a lot with the front and rear suspension over the first 2 days of riding it and I'm curious as to where guys are at with their settings. I'm about 225lbs geared up. Sled started out really soft on everything with the sag set to about 3" and 3 on the QA adjuster. I played around with the dampening as well and I have to be honest, I really didn't notice a lot of change. Is it just me? My front shocks started on spring setting 1 and about 10 clicks on each from softest setting. I ended up tightening them a bit more to 2 - noticed a little difference but again not a huge change like what i was expecting especially when adjusting dampening.

What is everybody doing for properly tuning these things for moderate-aggressive trail riding? This is my first r motion sled as well. I found that when trails were bumpy, I tightened up the QA to about 4 and it seemed to go over bumps pretty good and throw me around a little less. I certainly wasn't flying over the whoops like i was hoping to.

I guess what I'm asking here is how do you know you got it set right for the bumpier conditions, as smooth trail it really doesn't matter.
 

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CW is clockwise, CCW is counter clockwise. I tend to add in some compression shims when I rebuild, but this 2016 is the best out of the box yet.
 
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