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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am 6'3" - so a riser was what I saw as the only option.

Really didn't want to spend all the money for the X Setup.

Dealer suggested a Powermadd block - ok cheap fix, but

When I was looking in the manual, I kept seeing a refernce to the forward position. I rolled the Handle Bars as far as they could go - not enough.

Then I tried to move my handle bar post to the forward position :

Only to find out ( after I disassembeled everything ) that the factory did not pre drill the holes necessary for the move.

So I took out the drill and made thenecessary mods to accomodate the change.

Anyone done this? Are there any reasons why I should not have done or why factory did not drill these holes?

Whan all is said and done - It worked great for me - 2-3 hundred miles no problems.

Feedback?
 

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Interesting, does your brake lever run into the fixed summit windshield
when bars are fully turned ? I cut off the stop that prevents fully rotating
the bars forward and my brake lever now just about touches the windshield
with bars fully turned. My bars are the high steel not the aluminum risers.
I also purchased one of the powermad 2 " risers and it felt way to tall for riding
the flatlands in Mn. I milled it down to 1" and think that might be just about right
for the next trip to the mountains. Am currently trying to figure out how to keep
from freezing the tops of my hands on cold days, below 10 F. I am 6' 2'" and have
the Boss flattop seat that is about 1.5" taller which agravated the height of the bars
when riding in the mtns with one foot on running board and one knee on seat.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LRD said:
Interesting, does your brake lever run into the fixed summit windshield
when bars are fully turned ? I cut off the stop that prevents fully rotating
the bars forward and my brake lever now just about touches the windshield
with bars fully turned. My bars are the high steel not the aluminum risers.
I also purchased one of the powermad 2 " risers and it felt way to tall for riding
the flatlands in Mn. I milled it down to 1" and think that might be just about right
for the next trip to the mountains. Am currently trying to figure out how to keep
from freezing the tops of my hands on cold days, below 10 F. I am 6' 2'" and have
the Boss flattop seat that is about 1.5" taller which agravated the height of the bars
when riding in the mtns with one foot on running board and one knee on seat.

Good Luck
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LRD

The Brake will touch at a full turn, but not enough to do anything. It literally just grazes at best.

With the forward position, I think that you will also take care of the height issue you described, because now the bars are further out in front of you.

Most of my riding is in Houghton with regular powder. Making trip to Bozeman in a couple weeks.

Thanks for the reply
 

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I have 200 miles on mine with the bars set forward like you did, works really well, I,m 6' and it worked perfect for rise. My bars hit the windsheild so I just run without it, it seemed to direct powder right into my face anyway. No adverse side effects, and if there was you could just put it back in the rear holes.
 
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rocky mtn way said:
I have 200 miles on mine with the bars set forward like you did, works really well, I,m 6' and it worked perfect for rise. My bars hit the windsheild so I just run without it, it seemed to direct powder right into my face anyway. No adverse side effects, and if there was you could just put it back in the rear holes.
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Looked at mine today, and guess what's not there!! Yep. the upper holes are not pre-drilled, so like the others, I will have to finish what Ski-doo started. Love the sled, but it is the little things that are annoying!!

Smitty
 

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According to Ski-Doo's original propaganda, they wanted to position the rider back two inches on the Summits compaired to the MXZs. It was their opinion that with the longer track and deep snow conditions a little further back then the original REV would be more balanced. When they released the Summit REV they said that the rider position was only 10 inches forward, compaired to the 12 inches of the trail sleds. That is the only reason they did not drill out those holes. I know some people that did and they thought it was an improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
therealsnowdog said:
According to Ski-Doo's original propaganda, they wanted to position the rider back two inches on the Summits compaired to the MXZs. It was their opinion that with the longer track and deep snow conditions a little further back then the original REV would be more balanced. When they released the Summit REV they said that the rider position was only 10 inches forward, compaired to the 12 inches of the trail sleds. That is the only reason they did not drill out those holes. I know some people that did and they thought it was an improvement.
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The theory makes sense with regards to balance and position. I have found that I liked it forward for both on and off trail. We ride in the UP of Michigan. Our favorite spots sometimes have champagne powder well over our wastes, so its not the mountains, but I do believe that I have definitely experiences the true value of the Summit.

To each his own with the comfort.

Thanks for the responses.
 

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So Summits rock....

You have a stock summit bar, ie the one with the motocross style pad on it, and just moved it forward with no riser, correct?

No interference with the windshield, right? If so, the bars can be adjusted back and forth to allow clearance?

What is the width of the summit bars, and are they straight vs the bend in the adrenaline 121 bars?

Kurt
 
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