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Labrador: I love your idea of welding the pin into the strut. On the Skandic I re-built, the hard weld was a bear to machine out. I added the Ski Widening Kit which eliminates the issue at the ski pin ant the strut. I have not seen any issue with the widening kit housing - ski pin bearings, but I read that wear in that area is not uncommon, but easier to repair with just new bushings. The Ski Widening results are mixed. The slightly increased darting is an issue when there is hardly any snow. No darting when the snow is deeper. It seems to help steering in the corners, but the increased height vs the wider stance is about even on the tippy aspect. All in all, keeping the widening kit.

I had the Skandic gear box opened up, and it looked pristine. While the reverse shifter fork on the MXZ - had wear on the reverse fork roll pins. And was replaced. The wear was due to how the neutral fork position was set, not the miles. The Skandic had about 8,000 miles when I got it. Not that many miles, but it lived a very, very, very hard life. The MXZ had around 13,000 miles when I got it. Mainly rental miles. Then the teenage son of a sled mechanic..... enough said.

On the Skandic, there was as much slop between the fingers on the steering arm rings and the grooves in the struts as there was between the ski pins and the holes. The grooves in the struts looked fine, the wear was all in the fingers on steering arm rings. I had the fingers on the rings built up with hard weld as well. First I scribed the original edges of the fingers. There was a tiny bit of the original finger left to get the mark started. The welding wiped out the small original edge but the scribe mark was long enough to survive. Then I smoothed both sides on a belt sander. And used a die grinder to get the fingers close to the original scribed lines, then polished the fingers to be line to line to the groove in the struts. When I was done, the fit between the fingers and the grooves in the struts was tight but free flowing. I put 2,000 miles on last winter and am not feeling any slop. The weld was a specific 400 series Stainless rod. I don't have the specific number. and the welder did a great job of puddling the base with the weld for a good weld zone. A real pro. IF I feel some slop in the future, the plan is to sandwich two steering rings, bolted together. Make a double thick spacer on the top of the frame tube. And angle shift the two rings to regularly take up the slop. Currently, the idea is just a sketch.

Right now the MXZ is in the garage. Just finished up installing the after market fan cooler. Went together like a hand in a glove. Instructions were perfect. About a 3 hour job. Doing some re-wiring. Added USB port. Cleaning up some of the routing.

And laying out the added track idler wheels. Originally the plan was to install slightly larger idler wheels and try to squeeze in a couple of more. But when I looked at the melted DuPont's, a change in plan. Frequently, I was sledding on good snow in the woods and on the trails. But there are large stretches of open fields where the snow is blow away. To get a good season in, I can't be picky. The engine would over heat on the MXZ without an air cooler. Scratches would only dig up dirt. And the smell of melted plastic was more than an annoyance. No engine over heating on the Skandic. Love that radiator and fan. But similar melted plastic smell on the Skandic, even with the DuPont's.

I have found 3.325 Inch OD idler wheels with the Ski Doo "Stock" 20 mm Bearing ID - from an earlier model of another brand. Available new, from an after market company. If I flip the Ski Doo idler wheel holder 180 degrees, keep the notch in the holder at the web on the rail, drill new holes in the rail at the new positions, it puts the bottom of the wheel about 3 mm below a new Hyfax. Which is right where I want the edge of the "rollers" to be. About the same gap as the original idler wheels and a worn out Hyfax. The tighter spacing with the 3.325 inch idler wheel might permit ~~20 idler wheels. With most mounted as pairs, inside and out. They sell for $19 each, new. I'm about to swallow hard, buy a bunch and give it a try. If it works like I think it will, the longer Skandic might set a record with the number of track rollers. :- )

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the exchange!!!!

I have been to every US State, Province and all the northern Canadian territories - with the exception of Newfoundland and Labrador. Visiting your neck of the woods is high on my list.

:- )

_Jack
 

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There is lots of bearings to change when they give up. My expy has 16 idler bearings and your must have close to double?
Good in those bearings is that they are relatively cheap.
 

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There is lots of bearings to change when they give up. My expy has 16 idler bearings and your must have close to double?
Good in those bearings is that they are relatively cheap.
Sandman. I agree that bearing life will be tricky. Especially with the RPM of the wheel will be about double. I plan on using a hollow needle grease fitting and adding grease on a more regular basis.
 

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I planned to remove dust covers and fill bearings with shyntetic bearing grease.
Dust covers are pretty simple to remove w/o damaging them with small hook.
 

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Going to pull the engine and freshen up, reinforce the front end, have clutches gone through and get some new front shocks from Scott at Revel Suspension to replace the factory originals........if I ever get some down time at work. This has been the busiest year in marine history that I can remember.
1974361
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Today got again new spares.
Expedition Extreme has better shocks. Got those. It has heavier center shock and heavier adjustable rear shock.
Careful here. The geometry of the XU chassis Extreme rear suspension is oh-so-slightly different than the regular Skandics and Expeditions with the SC-5U, to allow the Extreme to run and clear a piggyback rear shock. We didn't realize it at first either and knocked the piggy resi off the body or wore the corner of it until it failed. You have to install the rear torque arm and other items from the Extreme in order to get sufficient clearance to run the piggyback shock. Others have installed a remote resi rear with the resi strapped to the shock body, that can work with the "regular" SC-5U. I have stuck with the IFP's to keep it simple and to have max durability.
 

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Thanks for warning I'll have to double check those. Was looking the epc and didn't see differences in arms...

Edit: @LabradorBoy You are right. Rocker weld part: 503193464 and link rod part: 503194153 are different. Need to order those... Thanks for heads-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Thanks for warning I'll have to double check those. Was looking the epc and didn't see differences in arms...

Edit: @LabradorBoy You are right. Rocker weld part: 503193464 and link rod part: 503194153 are different. Need to order those... Thanks for heads-up.
@jamiepenney will that do it? Rocker and link rods? I thought the rear torque arm was different as well.
 

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@jamiepenney will that do it? Rocker and link rods? I thought the rear torque arm was different as well.
Right... Looks that whole rear arm is different...

Rear Arm Ass'y. Includes 24 To 36, Model-Extreme
This mod is ballooning

Edit: have to look those differences in shocks qnd parts more closely to determine what really needs to be changed to make it work.
 

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You guys are one jump ahead of me on fun projects... On Wednesday, I ordered a 2016 120" rMotion rear arm assembly with the intent to use it as a base to replace the rear arm assembly on my 2016 MXZ Sport. The cuped upper idler wheels keep eating the steel shaft, the wheels loose position and the bearings are totally gone after one season. The Aluminium ring with the single set screw is not working to hold the cup idler bearing square. The rMotion looks to have a straight idler wheel which is the logical way to do it. So the plan is to cobble the rMotion arm onto the suspension.

I know I'm way over on value vs cost. But enjoying the fun of it all and learning a Ton.

The rMotion rear arm assembly gets here on Wednesday. Does it stand a chance of working? Any clue as to how much cut and weld I might be in for?

Thanks for any insight.

By the way. The 3.325" inch idler wheels are due on Monday. I already have enough extra idler wheel mounts and spare set of rails.... Keeping my fingers crossed. :- )

Here is what I bought to be the basis to cobble it into a 2016 MXZ Sport with a 600 Ace. Ordering the pivot arms separately.


_Jack
Product Font Auto part Parallel Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Right... Looks that whole rear arm is different...

Rear Arm Ass'y. Includes 24 To 36, Model-Extreme
This mod is ballooning

Edit: have to look those differences in shocks qnd parts more closely to determine what really needs to be changed to make it work.
Bottom line; choose a different strategy for your rear shock upgrade, you'll be money-in for it

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Bottom line; choose a different strategy for your rear shock upgrade, you'll be money-in for it

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
Yep... Bottom line is that for SC-5U isn't many options. No on of major manufacturers does shocks for this. Small shops might, but they are not available in Finland. One local shock shop Totaltek is developing set, but it is not near to complete... Not available for nexr season... Needing to get that extreme set to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Yep... Bottom line is that for SC-5U isn't many options. No on of major manufacturers does shocks for this. Small shops might, but they are not available in Finland. One local shock shop Totaltek is developing set, but it is not near to complete... Not available for nexr season... Needing to get that extreme set to work.
Didn't realize you were in Finland that may reduce your options certainly. My riding gang decided to go the IFP route, C36 IFP isn't bad but a C46 is absolutely amazing but very rare to find.

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There is a fox 2” option guys have been using. Smooth body ifp. I’m sure we can get you a shock to Finland. Sell the extreme rear shock to someone else and move on. It creates a saggy arse riding sled. Doesn’t back up as well. Requires more spring rate to keep it in the desired riding position. It’s worst for actually wide track duty compared to the falling rate sc5u in the rest of the wide track sleds. Been there. Don’t that. Me and my crew. We’re all on different rears now.
 

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There is a fox 2” option guys have been using. Smooth body ifp. I’m sure we can get you a shock to Finland. Sell the extreme rear shock to someone else and move on. It creates a saggy arse riding sled. Doesn’t back up as well. Requires more spring rate to keep it in the desired riding position. It’s worst for actually wide track duty compared to the falling rate sc5u in the rest of the wide track sleds. Been there. Don’t that. Me and my crew. We’re all on different rears now.
Thanks for update. Anticipated that all ready. I have stiffer rear springs in hand. And that extreme shock cannot be worse than basic HPG with 26000km
 

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Going to pull the engine and freshen up, reinforce the front end, have clutches gone through and get some new front shocks from Scott at Revel Suspension to replace the factory originals........if I ever get some down time at work. This has been the busiest year in marine history that I can remember. View attachment 1974361
I tried to get some shocks from Scott earlier this summer and after a few emails, he ditched me, i even tried leaving him a voice message and nothing.
I finally ended up buying 1400$ of shocks from Ian at Monster.
I am very happy with the service Ian gives.
By the way suspension is not Scott's primary buisiness he is a building contractor.
 
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