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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, Im moving this question over to this forum as I should have from the start. "Stud placement options"

i hadnt considered staggering the studs but some of the info from other threads made good sense to me. I have ordered and received my 6" duece bars, 96 studs, and 48 DOUBLE superlite pro backers and time is upon me to install them so id appreciate any final thoughts on the two pics whether I should do the left or right example below? left is even but only using every other space, right is staggered using each space.

Also, I bought 3/4" tunnel protectors but now thinking its more than i should need. Will they rub and slow me down until they "wear-in"? The stock ones were only about an 1/8" and im going 3/8" over my 1.25 lug with the 1.375 so should i get 1/2" instead?

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2007 Blizzard 600HO SDI with 121" track

All comments appreciated... thx
 

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Hey guys, Im moving this question over to this forum as I should have from the start. "Stud placement options"

i hadnt considered staggering the studs but some of the info from other threads made good sense to me. I have ordered and received my 6" duece bars, 96 studs, and 48 DOUBLE superlite pro backers and time is upon me to install them so id appreciate any final thoughts on the two pics whether I should do the left or right example below? left is even but only using every other space, right is staggered using each space.

Also, I bought 3/4" tunnel protectors but now thinking its more than i should need. Will they rub and slow me down until they "wear-in"? The stock ones were only about an 1/8" and im going 3/8" over my 1.25 lug with the 1.375 so should i get 1/2" instead?
Attached Images

  • post-436839-0-22441700-1547533575.jpg
2007 Blizzard 600HO SDI with 121" track
All comments appreciated... thx
From what I'm told you just don't want two in line with each other . So I'd think either could work but left pic seams more symmetrical and would spread the torsion on the track even from side to side. Right side pic might cause alternating pressure ?

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The rule of thumb is that you just want to avoid duplicating scratch lines. The exact pattern does not make any difference as long as they are staggered. I made my own "stagger" with a template and made sure that it went at least 12 rows before repeating. I was installing singles. Google "snowmobile track stud patterns" and you'll see hundreds of options.
 
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Use either pattern, but keep them close to the rails and do a 6 or 8 count pattern with either side staggered 1/4"in and out and between sides. Then you'll have lots of scratch lines, and useful penetration. Stay away from the middle of the track, it balloons more than window area and doesn't have as much penetration on it away from the rails. I tried studs every second window, that's what Blair Morgan used to do, he said it gave him more slide in corners but traction on the straights. I have a track on a Cat with only 48 singles near the rails, 2 every second window. Barely enough, but light rotating mass,good for sudden icy corners,braking and staying out of the trees. Not good for hole shots. Doubles are best, for sure. 96 1.375" studs is a little over 6 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thx for the stud thoughts...

How about the tunnel protectors?

If stock protectors are about 1/8"

and i add studs 3/8" over the lug...

is 1/2" or 5/8" enough? or should i go with the 3/4"? or ??
 

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Get the 1" one if you can, and run the track as tight as the factory spec. Put a few studs in the. loosen the track off and wedge it up against the protectors, by undoing the rear skid mounts and jack it up until it touches.See how much you have between the studs and the heat exchanger.Then remount the skid and rotate it through complete rotation to see if the track gets closer anywhere. Doo doesn't seem to give a lot of space, and youve got to get it right.
 
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