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I've installed the Snobunje Throttle Logic on my 2015 Lynx Adventure GT 900 ACE a couple of weeks ago. I ordered it after seeing Gatlinburg post some pictures here on DooTalk of this install, and thought i could make a step-by-step walk through when installing it. Hope its helpful for others!

This is the product: http://snobunje.com/public/store.php?crn=68&rn=317&action=show_detail

The installation instruction from Snobunje is detailed and helped a lot, but you can't follow it to the letter on these machines.

Disclaimer:
I'm not an experienced mechanic or authorized in any way for this kind of installation. I will not take responsibility of any consequences you might experience by following my instructions.

Install the lever
I decided to move the left hand switch housing and break lever to be able to install the throttle lever outside the handlebar grip.
The break lever is secured by just a clamp and 2 x M8 screws. The switch housing is mounted with 4 x Torx Screws (#8-18 / T20). You will find them on the back of the housing. The holes are kind of deep, so you won't reach them with ordinary screwdriver bits without some effort :)
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There is a cable tie holding the cables for the handlebar warmer and switches together. I had to cut that one to be able to move the switch housing to the right.
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To install the lever on the handlebar itself, you can use the rubber/plastic ring included in the kit from Snobunje. I cut off the length about 5mm and the with about 3mm to make it fit perfectly on the handlebar and make room for the cable to the grip heating.
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Install the throttle lever in your preferred position using the supplied allen key and put everything back together.

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Install the cable bracket
Hold the cable bracket in position on the right hand throttle lever and mark the outer edges with a cutter or whatever
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The drilling template from Snobunje will not fit, so you will have to modify it. Cut on the inside of the black lines. Make sure it fits inside your markings.
Mark center of the two red dots with an awl.
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Remove the two screws on each side of the throttle thumb lever. Its M5 x 20 Torx Screws.
You will have to bend the lever to get it off. With some force.
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Drill the two holes. I drilled 2mm pilot holes first, then 4mm as suggested by Snobunje. I did not want to detach the thumb warmer cable so i just fastened the lever to the handlebar with a clamp.

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Then place the counter-sink tool from the Snobunje kit through the holes (head on the inside of the lever) and attach it to a drill. Spin the tool into the hole. I had to use some force to make the countersink deep enough.
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Now its time to attach the cable bracket assembly to the lever. Make sure the phillips screws are tight and flush with the inside of the surface of the lever.
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Reinstall the lever to the housing and make sure there is enough space between the housing and the screws on the inside. This should not be a problem if they are flush with the surface.

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Cable installation
Remove the handle bar center cover / padding.
Insert the metal end of the Cable housing into the LH lever housing socket. Tighten the 4mm socket with the supplied allen key. Do not tighten too much! It will crimp the cable housing cap!

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Route the cable housing to the cable bracket in as straight a path as possible. Completly level is of course not possible, but almost. Fasten the cable housing to the existing electrical wire housings with cable ties. Not too tight.

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Cut the cable housing ca. 4 cm short of the cable bracket rod. I used a large and sharp side-cutter. Just make sure the cut is clean and the hole is clear and open.

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Insert the cable into the housing from the left side lever side. Attach the cable end into the socket and push and/or pull the cable through the housing
(image from Snobunje/throttleflare.com)
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Place the cable housing end cap on the cable and secure it in place on the tip of the cable housing

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Place the cable into the cable bracket by pulling the quick-latch back. Pull the cable. The left hand lever must be in closed position.
Slide the cable lock onto the cable and close to the cable bracket, as tight as possible but without pulling the right hand throttle lever out of dead position.
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Check the functionality of both throttle levers.
I had to adjust the cable bracket to get more pull on the bracket when using the left hand throttle.
To do that, just open the little set screw with the supplied allen key and push the rod to the first or second hole. Tighten the screw and check the throttle pull again.
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When you are finished adjusting, just cut the cable using a sharp side cutters and crimp the cable end cap onto the cable. Be careful if you dont have the correct tool. It could break quite easily.

My first-impression on the Snobunje left hand throttle:
The lever is a bit too long for my likings. Goldfinger is shorter, more like a hook, and not as easy to confuse with the break lever if youre not focusing. Specially when you ride standing position. If you hold your hand on the grip and feel a lever against your fingers, because of the angle of your hand its easy to automatically pull the lever when needing to break.

Its also a bit loose on the hinge, but not as much that it is annoying. All in all it works as it should and the overall operation is smooth.

The quick-release mechanism on the cable bracket is very handy and useful. Will use it all the time to reduce the risk of accidentally pulling the throttle lever when i mean to hit the breaks.

I think a left hand throttle is especially useful when side-hilling my WT. I 'm only 70kg and need all the weight i can produce sideways, particularly on hard, packed snow.
 

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Good job dude! Once we all have a crack at ya, this one is going to the FAQ's.

Not a lot of meat left between the mounting screws and the edges of the lever, yikes. But that plastic is very tough so it shouldn't really matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you!

I was actually never nervous regarding the mounting holes, because the plastic is, as you point out, very tough. I dont know the english word for it, but its the opposite of crispy.
 

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Nice write-up
Might want to change the title to iTC Left hand throttle before putting in the FAQs, since the install will be the same for 600/900/1200 iTC.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Good job dude! Once we all have a crack at ya, this one is going to the FAQ's.

Not a lot of meat left between the mounting screws and the edges of the lever, yikes. But that plastic is very tough so it shouldn't really matter.
I compensated for the lack of meat by making the screwhead on the throttle smaller and machining (grinding) off a bit of the aluminum from the SB rectangular block. Those minor mods allowed me to leave a bit more "meat". I'm still nervous about it though and ordered a replacement throttle today...just in case.
 

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I'm thinking that the light pull of the ITC will compensate for any weakening of the throttle from the screw holes. If that makes sense. I think it looks worst than it is. Also the "sandwich effect" from the block should provide some strength I'm thinking. As long as the screws are not over torqued to cause splitting from the wedge effect of the countersunk screw heads.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As long as the screws are not over torqued to cause splitting from the wedge effect of the countersunk screw heads.
I would think splitting is highly unlikely because of the material the throttle is made of. We can not, of course, be 100% certain before we have laid down miles with this install. But my opinion is that there are a lot of other things that will break long before the pliable / resilient / elastic throttle lever will :)

To be even more sure its possible to make the small modifications Biglandrider did, if you have the right tools. And bring a replacement throttle. And the correct allen key and a screwdriver.

Another point to consider, is that even if you, in some way, are able to break the lever where the counter-sink holes are, i think it should be possible to still use it. The actual throttle switch is on the opposite side of the housing with a square bracket / hole for the lever.
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But of course. Time will show :)
 

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What would be awesome is if ski doo had a kit where you could plug in another throttle for left side. Flip a switch to activate left side....
Just a dream
 

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What would be awesome is if ski doo had a kit where you could plug in another throttle for left side. Flip a switch to activate left side....
Just a dream
Maybe just dream but I bet it's possible for the BRP engineers to make it happen fairly easy. Would be a great accessory that's for sure. Could design it nice n compact and build it into the switch block. I'd say they charge an arm n leg for it but would be super nice.

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I concur about being very cautious. In an emergency, it can be mistaken for the break. Happened to me today. I had thought it would never happen to me but it did. No damage but take the warning to heart.
 

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This is great wright up sstromseth. Did you buy it in Norway?

I have no experience with the LHT from Snobunje. What makes it better than the Goldfinger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is great wright up sstromseth. Did you buy it in Norway?

I have no experience with the LHT from Snobunje. What makes it better than the Goldfinger?
No, i bought it off ebay, from oemclycles. Shipping was just $8 and total cost lower than buying from Norwegian suppliers. Including customs.

Is it better than Goldfinger? Well. It depends on your preferences i guess. As written earlier in this thread the lever is different. Longer. I bought the Snobunje throttle mainly because i had seen it mounted to the 900 ACE throttle lever, and knew it was possible.

Yes, i have seen a movie of a Goldfinger kit mounted to a sled with ITC but was not sure how it was done or how much I had to modify to make it fit.
 

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Maybe just dream but I bet it's possible for the BRP engineers to make it happen fairly easy. Would be a great accessory that's for sure. Could design it nice n compact and build it into the switch block. I'd say they charge an arm n leg for it but would be super nice.

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That would be fantastic.

Only problem would be that if it was priced like other BRP parts, they'd want your left arm, right nut AND your first born child.
 
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