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Ok so 2 sleds one steers with one finger the other wears u out
2018 doo tnt 129 900 acesteers like a dream wife sled
2017 doo renegade 137 900 ace wears on u to steer all day
front shock springs set identical
limiter strap identical
both studded same pattern and style stud
only thing not the same is different suspension shock but both seem about the same
both have ski shims
hers has duallys on it
mine had stud boy I think 6
was steering hard so put on a wore out set of duallys helped little but not like hers
cant see anything bent , however my sled was bought used and had a broken a arm replaced
is something sprung I can’t see ? What am I missing to make this steer so hard? I mean I can run it but if I put in 100-120 hard miles I feel it in my shoulders at night
thanks willing to try anything
 

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14SkandicWT600Ace 16MXZ900&600Ace
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2017 doo renegade 137 900 ace wears on u to steer all day
IA cin: My first guess would be that the bent A-Arm is related to the issue, but worn bearings in the upper cup idler wheels, or wear on the bar where the upper cupped idler wheel bearings fit to shaft - might also be the cause or be a contributor.

How many miles on both? I'm finding the plastic bushing bearings on a 5,500 mile MXZ TNT are starting to show signs of wear - to the point the joints were starting to get a little sloppy.

The suggestion is to start by lining the sled up to a grid, then take some measurements.
Set the sled on a 4' X 8' piece of plywood with a grid of perpendicular lines.
I used a strip of wood screwed to the plywood and clamp one side of the track to the strip.
Make sure the track is centered in the tunnel with blocks, front, back and both sides.
Use the 'bar method' to align the skis to each other.
Disconnect the steering linkages. Then run a single bar / rod through the axle of both skis. If the frame is "aligned", the blocked-together skis will be inline with the tunnel and the track. If things are bent, not so much. (This method is not to set toe in, this is to check frame alignment.)
With the skis 'barred together', check out the alignment of the track, tunnel, and skis.
Use the grid and a tape measure to check the tips of the skis to the back of the tunnel on both sides.
Use the grid and a tape measure to make sure the skis are centered to the center-line of the tunnel.

After the skis align to each other and to the tunnel (front to back and side to side), - then you can do an initial set-up of the steering linkages, and the handle bar. Later you can set toe-in in the usual way, but you will be starting with an initially fully aligned system.

My MXZ Sport came with some sprung front end bits and a bent A-Arms on one side.
When I did the alignment, found one ski was further back and in a bit.
Based on some guidance from a 'sled flipper', I used a hydraulic jack as a spreader - and some well placed straps to bring everything back. Took a while but got everything aligned and square. The 'flipper' said if the hydraulic jack method didn't work, that his next step would be the "Pick Up Truck, two trees and strong straps" method. He explained that the Pick Up Truck was to just take up the slack, not to apply the final pull. For the final, controlled pull he said he would twist the straps with a 'retained bar', so if the bar let loose it wouldn't spin out and hurt someone.

I also replaced the worn out rubber rings on the steering arm (the two lower ones, and the split one on the top). Added a grease fitting to the blocks on the bottom.

The suspension has since been totally re-built. Greased Mainway joints throughout. Fourth wheel in the back, dual straps in the front.. and some other additions.

The sled is now a dream to ride. Like you described, one finger effort and the sled floats where before, it bounced between the banks.

+++++

The 2014 Skandic had steering issues even after everything was aligned - with the help of a body shop... (This is the sled that had tumbled down a ski hill, end for end..). The upper cupped idler wheels on the suspension - were the next discovery on that sled. The wheel bearings were worn on one one side, and the inner race of the bearing had worn out the OD of the suspension arm. It looked like when I applied some throttle, the wheel would slightly twist, moving the track in the tunnel.

I ended up welding up the worn spot on the suspension arm, and polishing it down to a light press on the bearing ID. Then increased the "side spring load" that retains the wheel bearing on the shaft - with a stronger spring. Fixing the upper idler wheels made a huge difference. As insurance, I added the Mainway bronze bearings on all of the suspension bend points.

Now a joy to ride as well.

Please let us know what you find.

I'm in the middle of a "new to me" 2016 MXZ TNT 120" with a rMotion 900 Ace. The sled is in the air on its side. The A-Arms are out... Everything looks OK.... but just found that the gap in the Nun for the rear bearing on the lower A-Arms is less than what is should be... Digging in to the front end when the sun comes up....

_Jack
 

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Check the spring on your front track shock, they have 2 springs on that shock and have a tendency to break the the smaller of the springs. This puts alot of pressure on the skis and makes it much harder to steer. Very common issue on the R motion.
 
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