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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it appears my Stator is on it's way out again. I was looking up parts online and see the Stator for the xs chassis is a different part number than xr chassis. The engine side cover is the same, does anyone know for certain if the xs Stator would work? It's listed as quite a bit cheaper, I'm guessing the wire length or connector has changed.

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So it appears my Stator is on it's way out again. I was looking up parts online and see the Stator for the xs chassis is a different part number than xr chassis. The engine side cover is the same, does anyone know for certain if the xs Stator would work? It's listed as quite a bit cheaper, I'm guessing the wire length or connector has changed.

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Sorry, no insight into the difference between the XR & XS stator but please share what you are seeing that leads you to believe the stator is failing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a volt meter on my sled as the original Stator went bad around 8000km. Last weekend on our north trip, sled wasn't charging at idle but made the weekend ok. Checked it out at home, and Stator is failing again. I have a thread from the first time on here, but don't know how to post a link to it. Search "symptoms of a Stator failure " on here for the diagnosis.

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I have a volt meter on my sled as the original Stator went bad around 8000km. Last weekend on our north trip, sled wasn't charging at idle but made the weekend ok. Checked it out at home, and Stator is failing again. I have a thread from the first time on here, but don't know how to post a link to it. Search "symptoms of a Stator failure " on here for the diagnosis.

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Thanks. Your original post was a good read. It confirms that a bunch of folks don't understand how the electrics of our 1200's work. Good job of filtering through the misinformation, diagnosing correctly and posting for us all to learn.

It is notable (and unfortunate!) that you are having this issue again. It seems you either have horrible luck or something else is contributing to the failures. I have about half a dozen friends with 1200's, have ridden more than 60,000 km on the 3 that I have owned and with the exception of a defective flywheel on a '09, no charging issues. (Hopefully that does not come back to haunt me!) From your original question it appears you aren't going with the rewind this time. Are you feeling that has something to do with the failure this time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm leaning towards buying a new one because of time. Stator Kev has been great, he's willing to do it again, but will take him some time to do it. It has been flawless since I put that one in, which lasted longer than the original. I ride with lots of other 1200's also, only a few have had Stator issues. My sons identical sled has almost 27k on it with no issues.

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Do you have any electrical accessories on the sled? Do you have a shield power connector directly connected to the battery without a fuse? Did you change your headlamps to a brighter lamp over the factory lamp? Is your battery in good shape, or is the sled constantly trying to keep it charged?

I would think that something is drawing too much current. The power system (stator, voltage regulator, wiring) is designed for a certain amount of electrical load. If you are burning out parts, there must be a reason. If it was a faulty design, then I would think that many more sleds would be failing the same way. I'm not saying that it can't be a faulty part (twice), but I'd start looking at other things.

Remove your main fuse and put an ammeter in its place, and measure the current draw, is it as expected, or a bit high (check at higher RPM too, not only at idle)? Multiply the current draw by the measured battery voltage (or 13.8) to determine the amount of watts your sled is drawing (check with high beams and all bar/thumb/seat heaters, helmet heat connected and any accessories on). If it's close to the maximum current constantly, over time this can overheat the stator (and VR) and cause it to prematurely fail. Also check for bad or corroded connectors, poor grounds, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you have any electrical accessories on the sled? Do you have a shield power connector directly connected to the battery without a fuse? Did you change your headlamps to a brighter lamp over the factory lamp? Is your battery in good shape, or is the sled constantly trying to keep it charged?

I would think that something is drawing too much current. The power system (stator, voltage regulator, wiring) is designed for a certain amount of electrical load. If you are burning out parts, there must be a reason. If it was a faulty design, then I would think that many more sleds would be failing the same way. I'm not saying that it can't be a faulty part (twice), but I'd start looking at other things.

Remove your main fuse and put an ammeter in its place, and measure the current draw, is it as expected, or a bit high (check at higher RPM too, not only at idle)? Multiply the current draw by the measured battery voltage (or 13.8) to determine the amount of watts your sled is drawing (check with high beams and all bar/thumb/seat heaters, helmet heat connected and any accessories on). If it's close to the maximum current constantly, over time this can overheat the stator (and VR) and cause it to prematurely fail. Also check for bad or corroded connectors, poor grounds, etc.
I agree with what you're saying, I have not checked the current draw, but that's not a bad idea. Sled is stock, all bulbs stock, brp heated visor plug only. Grounds and connections ok. The sled had a bad battery when I bought it at 2400 km, but that was summer time. I replaced it then, Stator failed end of the first season at 8500 km. I always thought that had something to do with it, not knowing how much the previous owner had ran it with the bad battery. The battery holds a charge fine, I always keep it on a solar charger. It maintains 12.5-12.6 when sitting without a charger on it. I have seen batteries overwork an alternator before, so probably a good idea to check it.

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Buy a BRP one, There are new updated part numbers now for both the regulator and stator. The Stator is about 450.00 cdn now not 600.00 like they use to be. Great post on the first one, couldn't imagine doing it twice.
 

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I had to replace my 2009 1200 stator and flywheel last year and installed the Oem stator, now 3000kms later its weak again.
Only 13 volts ac at idle, 30 volts at higher rpm.
Hate the idea of pulling it again....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not to doubt you, but do you know the difference between the two? The original Stator supersedes to the 2015, then the 2016 and up is a different number.

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Why not install the Grand Touring version of each. They are rated for higher output so should last longer at normal loads.
 
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