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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for feedback from those of you who have replaced your spark plug cap with a screw-on type replacement such as NGK. Did they hold up or did you end up replacing the complete OEM set-up back to the coil? I fell victim to the dreaded broken wire this weekend so I need to do something.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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REVin soon said:
I am looking for feedback from those of you who have replaced your spark plug cap with a screw-on type replacement such as NGK. Did they hold up or did you end up replacing the complete OEM set-up back to the coil? I fell victim to the dreaded broken wire this weekend so I need to do something.
Thanks,
Mark
[snapback]749653[/snapback]​
definately get the screw in type, i wasn't a believer in them before but after my 3rd broken doo wire they are the way to go, much better construction.
 

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I was talking to a ski-doo mechanic on this today. He told me that there isn't a problem using replacement caps, but to only use rubber ones, as the plastic ones have a built in resistor / their construction provides too much resistance, something like that
 

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1BadZ said:
I was talking to a ski-doo mechanic on this today. He told me that there isn't a problem using replacement caps, but to only use rubber ones, as the plastic ones have a built in resistor / their construction provides too much resistance, something like that
[snapback]749789[/snapback]​
an LB05EZ is the old screw on style cap. repeat old style. they are a 5000 ohm cap. the resistor is in the cap. your rev has resistor WIRES, not caps. so if you install resistor caps on resistor wires your regulating it twice, and making 1/2 the spark. you can buy wires and caps together only, different from mag and pto. my advice would be to put a lil di-electric grease in your caps or on your plugs to avioid breaking them in the future
 

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76TNTRV said:
1BadZ said:
I was talking to a ski-doo mechanic on this today. He told me that there isn't a problem using replacement caps, but to only use rubber ones, as the plastic ones have a built in resistor / their construction provides too much resistance, something like that
[snapback]749789[/snapback]​
an LB05EZ is the old screw on style cap. repeat old style. they are a 5000 ohm cap. the resistor is in the cap. your rev has resistor WIRES, not caps. so if you install resistor caps on resistor wires your regulating it twice, and making 1/2 the spark. you can buy wires and caps together only, different from mag and pto. my advice would be to put a lil di-electric grease in your caps or on your plugs to avioid breaking them in the future
[snapback]749914[/snapback]​
You're right. I checked the resistance on the rubber NGK cap that I had lying around, and it read 4900 ohms. The info on the back of the package spells it out as well. Are the plastic caps non-resistor, or would the factory 1 piece wire/cap have a certain amount of resistance in that cap if you cut it off from the wire? Are you saying there's no way around buying a new factory 1 piece setup? If not, can a resistance test tell me if existing is still good?? Thanks
 

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you could put a cheapy boot on it non resistor. thats what you need. go to your local dealer and get him to check kimpex or aftermarket book in the NGK section for a 90d non resistor cap. havent actually looked myself. theyre glued on from the factory and if my memory is good about 40 or 50 bucks a wire from BRP. have always just replaced with stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I used dielectic grease, but I pulled the caps quite a bit last year checking compression so they have had a workout. It certainly would be nice to get away with a cap rather than the entire set-up, I have read that several people have done the caps only but want to read about results before banking on it.
 

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other than harder on plugs cause of less spark, its also theoretically hard on stator/mpem because things arent working they way they are supposed to
 

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I fixed mine by crimping on a 90 from an old set of car plug wires. I inserted a scew driver in between the old boot and wire to break the glue. Sprayed some WD-40 to get the boot to loosen up and come off. Pryed up the old 90 connection and removed it. Removed the metal insert, trimmed the wire, reinserted the metal insert and crimped on the new end.
 

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yellowjacket said:
I fixed mine by crimping on a 90 from an old set of car plug wires. I inserted a scew driver in between the old boot and wire to break the glue. Sprayed some WD-40 to get the boot to loosen up and come off. Pryed up the old 90 connection and removed it. Removed the metal insert, trimmed the wire, reinserted the metal insert and crimped on the new end.
[snapback]750632[/snapback]​
Any reason you couldn't use a set of automotive wires, cutting the dist. cap end to the right length. I hate having a machine where someone else can change caps for a couple of bucks, where on this machine you're taling $ 60, 70, 80, whatever to do the same thing, and plugs cost $10 CDN each instead of $2 or $3. And it's not like this 800 makes any additional power or anything.
 

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1BadZ said:
yellowjacket said:
I fixed mine by crimping on a 90 from an old set of car plug wires. I inserted a scew driver in between the old boot and wire to break the glue. Sprayed some WD-40 to get the boot to loosen up and come off. Pryed up the old 90 connection and removed it. Removed the metal insert, trimmed the wire, reinserted the metal insert and crimped on the new end.
[snapback]750632[/snapback]​
Any reason you couldn't use a set of automotive wires, cutting the dist. cap end to the right length. I hate having a machine where someone else can change caps for a couple of bucks, where on this machine you're taling $ 60, 70, 80, whatever to do the same thing, and plugs cost $10 CDN each instead of $2 or $3. And it's not like this 800 makes any additional power or anything.
[snapback]750775[/snapback]​
if its a 2001, first off you dont need the $10 plug. all the 01 calls for is BR9ES. are your automotive wires resistor wires? if not i wouldnt use them. you need RESISTOR WIRES>
 

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I carry an extra plug wire because I've broken 2 caps now. Also, get extra of those back plasitc clips (they charge like .30 each) because I break them everytime.

I had to use the screw on type when the dealer didn't have any wires in stock, rode for 2 days with it. Seemed spot on, now i have it for the back-up.

BTW, reliable dealer made it up for me so I felt safe
 

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76TNTRV said:
1BadZ said:
yellowjacket said:
I fixed mine by crimping on a 90 from an old set of car plug wires. I inserted a scew driver in between the old boot and wire to break the glue. Sprayed some WD-40 to get the boot to loosen up and come off. Pryed up the old 90 connection and removed it. Removed the metal insert, trimmed the wire, reinserted the metal insert and crimped on the new end.
[snapback]750632[/snapback]​
Any reason you couldn't use a set of automotive wires, cutting the dist. cap end to the right length. I hate having a machine where someone else can change caps for a couple of bucks, where on this machine you're taling $ 60, 70, 80, whatever to do the same thing, and plugs cost $10 CDN each instead of $2 or $3. And it's not like this 800 makes any additional power or anything.
[snapback]750775[/snapback]​
if its a 2001, first off you dont need the $10 plug. all the 01 calls for is BR9ES. are your automotive wires resistor wires? if not i wouldnt use them. you need RESISTOR WIRES>
[snapback]750974[/snapback]​
One of the updates on the 01 800 was to upgrade to the BR9ECS plugs.
 

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ttt
 

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If I buy the whole wire with cap on it (stock Ski doo) how does it attach to the coil?

Any pics?

Never done this before but now have broken cap on PTO side and want to replace with stock part/s.
 

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a smidgen of dielectric grease on the plug tip and boot rim will keep your plug caps from sticking on and you won't break the connection strong-arming them off. i broke many on my Sea-Doos over the years before trying that, and only found out by accident when I was being sloppy with it.
 

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hey,
could the mixing of resistor wires and resistor caps be causing my plugs to be covered in a black powdery carbon stuff (on the top of the plug)??? this is also causing my sled to run eradic. I even used the DiGrease.
thanks
gutz
 

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Ive got the black carbon stuff with the stock plugs/wires/boots etc. I think it is the norm?
I do use di-electric grease on the plug tips and Im careful when removing the wire from the plug. I think mine is just the fact that there is over 4200 miles on it? Ive only fouled 3-4 plugs tops in 4 seasons.
 

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SnomoSnob
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it's causing my 670 to run like someone is jiggling the off switch, sometimes....
anyone have an idea?
thanks
Gutz
 
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