Solution for those pesky y-pipe bolts
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Joined
·
414 Posts
I had my Y pipe off and I can't see how you would do it without taking the pipe outta there first. I went to buy the nord lockwashers at Fastenal and they said they would have to order them and it would take more than a week to get them. I wanted to get everything put back together and I wasn't waiting that long in the winter so I used stainless lockwashers and red locktite. I found with the ball end hex key you just can't get much torque on the bolt to get it good and tight. I did what someone else suggested and cut the short end of a hex key so that it is only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long. I used the ball end to turn the bolt snug and then the cut off hex key to really tighten it up. This worked great. Taking the heat shield off the y-pipe helped too. If the buggers back out now then I will order the nord lockwashers and redo the job.
Joined
·
271 Posts
had 600 miles on my 07 XRS 800 and I had one y-pipe bolt broken off, two rattled all the way out, one almost all the way backed out, and the other four were lose. what a bunch of "edit for bad language" at 600 miles
![]()
Joined
·
530 Posts
I've seen Nord-Lock washers for M24 bolts come loose in 6 spot welding guns here @ my workplace. One failed a week after installation. Where they are used is the temperature is not anywheres near as hot as @ the cylinder/y pipe junction. Whether the nuts were not properly torqued or not, we weren't impressed w/ the Nord-Locks.
Guys are saying that the cylinders don't get as hot as the exhaust gases. But don't the exhaust gases flow thru the y pipe? The heat in the y pipe will transfer into the bolts.
Guys are saying that the cylinders don't get as hot as the exhaust gases. But don't the exhaust gases flow thru the y pipe? The heat in the y pipe will transfer into the bolts.
Joined
·
1,076 Posts
too my knowledge , I've never ever read anyone having a problem with the nordllocks in this application...must mean somthing?
Joined
·
2,500 Posts
Do you have any pictures of them?
Joined
·
40 Posts
Hey if you take the shield off the Y pipe I can understand how that would make it easier to get to the bolts... question is can you skip putting it back on? My pipe is getting ceramic coating as we speak (rather as I write this) but I didn't send the Y pipe with it... too much hassle for the little time I had to take it off.
I would be interested in a high temp paint job but don't want to create hear issues... any words of wisdom?
![]()
I would be interested in a high temp paint job but don't want to create hear issues... any words of wisdom?
Talking to my brother & he was looking into getting some of the washers.
Looking @ the BRP parts website, the 500SS motor uses M8 bolts & the 600SDI & 800PTEK uses M6. Not sure what the other motors use.
Bringing this one back up top.....
One question I do have regarding the installation of the Nord-Lock washers on the exhaust manifold bolts is if there is any need to apply any Loc-Tite to the bolt threads when re-installing them with the Nord-Lock washers? I thought I heard/read somewhere "no need to" but just wanted to confirm...
Thanks,
-John
One question I do have regarding the installation of the Nord-Lock washers on the exhaust manifold bolts is if there is any need to apply any Loc-Tite to the bolt threads when re-installing them with the Nord-Lock washers? I thought I heard/read somewhere "no need to" but just wanted to confirm...
Thanks,
-John
Joined
·
110 Posts
It's either or John.....if you run Nord-Locks then no need. Main reason to go with Nord-Locks is so that you don't have to loctite which can be a real problem getting them out afterwards. Of course you'll find all sorts of opinions on this topic on here but I prefer the mechanical fix the Nord-Locks provide.
Bailz396,
Thanks for the response. I ended up installing the NordLock's on the bolts with no Loc-Tite. Gonna put them to the test next week as I am leaving for Togwotee tomorrow morning @ 6:00 a.m. for a week.
-John
Joined
·
683 Posts
cheaper allen bit is this: take a 5mm Bondhus t-handle w/ball end and cut the top "T" handle off. then you can just stick it into a 5mm socket and then use a ratchet for better leverage. t-handle cost like $3.25 from www.mscdirect.com and the socket....well if you have a 1/4" drive socket set, you should have a socket in there. If not, an average usa made socket like craftsman, shouldn't be more than $3.
the t-handles are nice and long. like 8"-9" for that extended reach.
the t-handles are nice and long. like 8"-9" for that extended reach.
Joined
·
132 Posts
Now you tell me.
Torque Specs??? I was wondering how tight I am supposed to tighten these. Had mine loosen up after 5,000 miles on my 05 mxz 600 HO. Sprayed oil all over the place what a mess. Well just ordered the nord lock washers hope they work.
![]()
![]()
That is correct juliet you re-use the factory bolts. The washer size needed is for these bolts is an M6.
Hope this helps,
-John
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
