LOL good one.

 

In another thread, I suggested using rope. Not that yellow crap that some people think is "nylon" when it is actually "polyethylene". It's useless garbage that has no stretch, isn't very strong, and is easily destroyed by sunlight.

Three-strand nylon rope (the soft, white stuff) has tremendous strength and stretch. We once got a loaded 16-foot, Inuit-style sled (komotik), weighing well over a thousand pounds, stuck in a creek bed. We got it out with a hundred feet of nylon rope attached to another machine that disappeared over the bank going full-tilt. I was watching down below. One second that stuck sled was there, two seconds later it was sling-shotted out. Amazing!

The problem I see with the bunjee is that it's too short. Put 50-feet of nylon rope on it and you may have something useful. The towing vehicle has to be able to get up some speed for that inertia to be converted into real pulling power.

 

In another thread, I suggested using rope. Not that yellow crap that some people think is "nylon" when it is actually "polyethylene". It's useless garbage that has no stretch, isn't very strong, and is easily destroyed by sunlight.

Three-strand nylon rope (the soft, white stuff) has tremendous strength and stretch. We once got a loaded 16-foot, Inuit-style sled (komotik), weighing well over a thousand pounds, stuck in a creek bed. We got it out with a hundred feet of nylon rope attached to another machine that disappeared over the bank going full-tilt. I was watching down below. One second that stuck sled was there, two seconds later it was sling-shotted out. Amazing!

The problem I see with the bunjee is that it's too short. Put 50-feet of nylon rope on it and you may have something useful. The towing vehicle has to be able to get up some speed for that inertia to be converted into real pulling power.

Right, polyethylene is also weak and sellers try to pass it off as "tow rope that floats"...yippee. 3 strand nylon is very strong and shouldn't be confused with lesser multi-strand nylon wrapped around a weak core. (Not that you would).

 

I had a different experience last weekend with my sno-bunje. I had my 1200 stuck straight up in the air. Back was down pretty far. Now, we all know the 1200 is a fat pig but I simply shoveled out the front of the sled a bit and I hooked the sno bunje to the front of the sled. I then took a ratchet strap and put it around a tree and started stretching the bunje between the front of the sled and the ratchet. I ratcheted it in pretty tight, stretching the bunje about 3 feet. Then walked back and popped the throttle tightened the rachet again and popped it again and it actually slid right out in two tries. It was the easiest I have ever unstuck my 1200. Worked really well for one person. I have never tried to pull out another sled out with a sled with it but this combination really worked well for me.

 

My best tool to unstuck or tow a sled is the Steadymate 15543 Snowmobile Tow Strap.

When stucked you can use the front section to tie in the track and then add on longer ropes to tie to a tree.

I know...I mentioned that old trick many times on here and you guys must be getting sick of it but it always worked for me, easily, by myself with a 800 pound V800 Skandic.

 

I had a different experience last weekend with my sno-bunje. I had my 1200 stuck straight up in the air. Back was down pretty far. Now, we all know the 1200 is a fat pig but I simply shoveled out the front of the sled a bit and I hooked the sno bunje to the front of the sled. I then took a ratchet strap and put it around a tree and started stretching the bunje between the front of the sled and the ratchet. I ratcheted it in pretty tight, stretching the bunje about 3 feet. Then walked back and popped the throttle tightened the rachet again and popped it again and it actually slid right out in two tries. It was the easiest I have ever unstuck my 1200. Worked really well for one person. I have never tried to pull out another sled out with a sled with it but this combination really worked well for me.

It does save walking back and forth to the pulling sled.

 

While skeptical of the snow bunje myself, my tune was changed a bit on a mountain trip where a friend carries one. The bunje is not just about pulling power, it's also about ergonomics and staying out of the way. While a simple rope fits the bill in many ways, the elasticity helps some in a tight spot.

Tight spots, hills, a paddle track 800 - you don't want to be in front of it when it pops out. Ski loops can be too far down to grab and pull on effectively and safely. The sno bunje keeps things safe and ergonomic, while providing some extra (even if only a little) pulling power.

At home I wouldn't use one, but for the mountains I'd like it. Some times you don't have an anchor to tie/ratchet too. Sometimes another sled can't help you out. The bunje has it's place like all the other getting unstuck methods.

 

We bought one a few years back. Used it once and now it stays home. The company makes some other good products but this one isn’t for us. Honestly I’ve never used rope either. Never been so stuck that a couple of guys with shovels couldn’t get me out.

 

We bought one a few years back. Used it once and now it stays home. The company makes some other good products but this one isn't for us. Honestly I've never used rope either. Never been so stuck that a couple of guys with shovels couldn't get me out.

I found that with the snobunje you could avoid needing a couple guys with shovels. One guy to give you a good yank and as long as you weren't stuck pointed straight up hill you'd be on your way. Little to no digging most times. This is with the handheld version of course. The sled to sled one never made a ton of sense since you would need to get a sled in front of the stuck sled. Most of the time you're stuck the snow is deep and you can't stop and then expect to just start back up again.

 

While skeptical of the snow bunje myself, my tune was changed a bit on a mountain trip where a friend carries one. The bunje is not just about pulling power, it's also about ergonomics and staying out of the way. While a simple rope fits the bill in many ways, the elasticity helps some in a tight spot.

Tight spots, hills, a paddle track 800 - you don't want to be in front of it when it pops out. Ski loops can be too far down to grab and pull on effectively and safely. The sno bunje keeps things safe and ergonomic, while providing some extra (even if only a little) pulling power.

At home I wouldn't use one, but for the mountains I'd like it. Some times you don't have an anchor to tie/ratchet too. Sometimes another sled can't help you out. The bunje has it's place like all the other getting unstuck methods.

Actually it has no pulling power and I would rather be in front of a Dyneema non stretching rope (or any rope) that a stretched power packed bunje.............yikes

 

I have had great success with my SnoBunje and the physics of it do work.. Here are three times I have used it.....

- Came across a family who rented some sleds and had a 2-up Cat touring sled buried off the trail they could not get out. They had been digging and trying to lift it out with no success. I hooked one end to their front bumper and the other end to my back bumper. I started to pull forward slowly.... never pulling hard or spinning my track. The SnoBunje stretched to a point and then the inertia of the rebound started pulling the Cat forward and they drove it out.

- I came across a guy and a girl on two mountain sleds they rented. To make a long story short the guy had the sled buried just off the trail deep and perpendicular to the trail. He could get it rolled over the way it was wedged. I hooked the SnoBunje up to his rear bumper and to my rear bumper. I had him put it in reverse and I started pulling forward slowly. The SnoBunje stretched almost to its maximum length and then he started to back it right out.

- My wife and I were out alone and I ended up off the trail and could not get it out myself the way it was angled off the trail. Hooked up the SnoBunje to her sled and she was able to pull me right out.

In all three cases...... no shoveling..... no lifting..... no need for more than two people (one one each sled). While it might not be perfect for every situation it worked perfectly these three times when it was only me and my wife out on the trails.

I doubt a rope by itself would have worked in any of these examples. A rope pr strap is going to be taunt right away and the pulling sled is going to start spinning the track in most cases. No pulling energy is going to provided but the rope; only the sled. The SnoBunje slowly stretches to a point and then the energy built up creates the pulling force on the stuck sled and that force is what lets you drive it right out because you get the energy from the sled plus the stretching of the SnoBunje.

 

I have had great success with my SnoBunje and the physics of it do work.. Here are three times I have used it.....

- Came across a family who rented some sleds and had a 2-up Cat touring sled buried off the trail they could not get out. They had been digging and trying to lift it out with no success. I hooked one end to their front bumper and the other end to my back bumper. I started to pull forward slowly.... never pulling hard or spinning my track. The SnoBunje stretched to a point and then the inertia of the rebound started pulling the Cat forward and they drove it out.

- I came across a guy and a girl on two mountain sleds they rented. To make a long story short the guy had the sled buried just off the trail deep and perpendicular to the trail. He could get it rolled over the way it was wedged. I hooked the SnoBunje up to his rear bumper and to my rear bumper. I had him put it in reverse and I started pulling forward slowly. The SnoBunje stretched almost to its maximum length and then he started to back it right out.

- My wife and I were out alone and I ended up off the trail and could not get it out myself the way it was angled off the trail. Hooked up the SnoBunje to her sled and she was able to pull me right out.

In all three cases...... no shoveling..... no lifting..... no need for more than two people (one one each sled). While it might not be perfect for every situation it worked perfectly these three times when it was only me and my wife out on the trails.

I doubt a rope by itself would have worked in any of these examples. A rope pr strap is going to be taunt right away and the pulling sled is going to start spinning the track in most cases. No pulling energy is going to provided but the rope; only the sled. The SnoBunje slowly stretches to a point and then the energy built up creates the pulling force on the stuck sled and that force is what lets you drive it right out because you get the energy from the sled plus the stretching of the SnoBunje.

So I guess it's debatable since you only tried it with the bunje but it seems to me full power from the pulling sled would be more effective than the partial power of the bunje. I guess I have said enough on this topic............I'm done.

 

So I guess it's debatable since you only tried it with the bunje but it seems to me full power from the pulling sled would be more effective than the partial power of the bunje. I guess I have said enough on this topic............I'm done.

All I was stating is that it worked for me with really no additional effort. I tried ropes / straps in similar situations in the past and didn't always have success. So that why I bought the SnoBunje (the longer version).

Next time I have a similar situation, I'll try my tow rope and if it doesn't work, I'll try the SnoBunje to get an apples-to-apples comparison.

 

So I guess it's debatable since you only tried it with the bunje but it seems to me full power from the pulling sled would be more effective than the partial power of the bunje. I guess I have said enough on this topic............I'm done.

It is impossible to get the full pulling power with a rope since the track will just spin. The snobunje is designed to allow you to start moving forward and the load increases gradually as the bunje stretches. When the bunje is fully stretch you get the full pulling power and you never lose tension since the bunje is stretched. It is physics. It does work.

 

I don't think you're taking into account the fact that you can build up momentum and stretch the bungee, then hold position and you continue to apply pulling power that you stored up from the momentum of the sled moving forward. Otherwise you have to use a "slack chain" approach with a rope. Kind of does the same thing but the force is all at once and you end up breaking something.

I actually don't have one myself but seems like this is how it works in theory.

 

No shovels. No pulling skies. No human efforts. In the country the bunjee comes out half dozen times a day. If it’s too short I add 50’ of rope to it. Minimizes that instant shock by getting a run. Works in tight or open places. IF you can’t understand the theory behind it. Then you need to come see it in person. I was skeptical. Bought one. It’s now my main tool. Used so often it’s usually kept on the rear bumper

 

Last weekend, we got the SWT buried enough that its track would not turn: burning belt was the only result of snapping the throttle. I hooked onto him with a 50' nylon (stretchable) rope (1/2 inch diameter) and it took 4 or 5 flying runs to suck that machine out. At the end of all of the unsuccessful runs, the stretch (and potential energy) built up in the rope pulled my 800# machine and 200# of me backwards more than the full length of the sled. Three or 4 times. I had a 15 foot run at the rope each time on loose snow.

I fail to see how a short snow bungie would improve this, especially with no ability to have a long run to build potential energy and momentum. If the answer is to add a rope to give distance, then the relevance of the snow bungie itself comes into question. Someone explain how this device would change basic physics please.

John

 

If you know how to work it a Snowbungie is an amazing tool.

 

Last weekend, we got the SWT buried enough that its track would not turn: burning belt was the only result of snapping the throttle. I hooked onto him with a 50' nylon (stretchable) rope (1/2 inch diameter) and it took 4 or 5 flying runs to suck that machine out. At the end of all of the unsuccessful runs, the stretch (and potential energy) built up in the rope pulled my 800# machine and 200# of me backwards more than the full length of the sled. Three or 4 times. I had a 15 foot run at the rope each time on loose snow.

I fail to see how a short snow bungie would improve this, especially with no ability to have a long run to build potential energy and momentum. If the answer is to add a rope to give distance, then the relevance of the snow bungie itself comes into question. Someone explain how this device would change basic physics please.

John

The track would not turn??? In low range ?? Sorry, i did not know it was possible... Maybe in thick slush ??

Or maybe your belt had a lot of wear and was sitting deeper in the secondary than it supposed to ?

If you have a chance, give us some details on how you got stucked so bad.

 

The track would not turn??? In low range ?? Sorry, i did not know it was possible... Maybe in thick slush ??

Or maybe your belt had a lot of wear and was sitting deeper in the secondary than it supposed to ?

If you have a chance, give us some details on how you got stucked so bad.

It's not the first time - partly deteriorated 18" snow below a crust, with 12" fresh denser powder on top. Climbing a hill - backed up, skis dug in. A bit of back-up and go-ahead action, and that mixed up in the undercarriage like cement. No slush. Belt is fine. Remember, I'm one of the charter members in the "XUs-are-geared-too-high-for-really-tough-conditions" club.

I was basically pulling it out dead, for fear of not wanting to notch the belt. We were one or two flying runs from resorting to winching to a boulder.

 

Last weekend, we got the SWT buried enough that its track would not turn: burning belt was the only result of snapping the throttle. I hooked onto him with a 50' nylon (stretchable) rope (1/2 inch diameter) and it took 4 or 5 flying runs to suck that machine out. At the end of all of the unsuccessful runs, the stretch (and potential energy) built up in the rope pulled my 800# machine and 200# of me backwards more than the full length of the sled. Three or 4 times. I had a 15 foot run at the rope each time on loose snow.

I fail to see how a short snow bungie would improve this, especially with no ability to have a long run to build potential energy and momentum. If the answer is to add a rope to give distance, then the relevance of the snow bungie itself comes into question. Someone explain how this device would change basic physics please.

John

First off let me say that I don't see any problem with questioning the validity of the snow bungee. That being said, I will reiterate what I said earlier, which is that the snow bungee has its place, just like long lengths of nylon rope has its place. Sometimes neither works.

I would not take a swt where I took my RMK a few weeks ago. They were in places where a long run of rope and having time to build momentum with another sled was out of the question. If you read some of the above comments, it will more than explain why the snow bungee works. If it doesn't work for you, then maybe you do not ride or get stuck in the places a snow bungee is useful.

 

Sometimes stuck is stuck.

I rarely break out the shovel when stuck. Most of the time a good tug on the ski to get it going is all that is needed. I couldn't justify the price of SnoBungie. I happen to have a strap with a handle on it that I connected a few bungie cords to and it seems to be the same thing. Total cost: $3. My Bungies can be used for other things when not needed too.

I like the strap idea from T&A that wraps around the back of the ski, so the strap slides off when the snowmobile goes forward. At least they only charge $6 for it. I'm pretty sure I have something just like it though. hehe.

 

It's not the first time - partly deteriorated 18" snow below a crust, with 12" fresh denser powder on top. Climbing a hill - backed up, skis dug in. A bit of back-up and go-ahead action, and that mixed up in the undercarriage like cement. No slush. Belt is fine. Remember, I'm one of the charter members in the "XUs-are-geared-too-high-for-really-tough-conditions" club.

I was basically pulling it out dead, for fear of not wanting to notch the belt. We were one or two flying runs from resorting to winching to a boulder.

I see you're from North Bay. Where exactly were you riding to find all this snow?

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The problem I see with the bunjee is that it's too short. Put 50-feet of nylon rope on it and you may have something useful. The towing vehicle has to be able to get up some speed for that inertia to be converted into real pulling power.

Not if you use a sno-bunjee.

I'm sure everyone has thought that the sno-bunjee was a gimmick, up until they actually seen one in action. They work, plain and simple, and I don't need to do an experience with rope followed by a sno-bunjee to know that. I've been around countless stuck snowmobiles. Short tracks, long tracks, deep lug tracks, wide tracks. Playing in the hills, playing in the power, stuck in holes, stuck in brooks, stuck in slob. Stuck with a crowd of people, with a partner, and stuck all by myself. I've used my hands and feet to dig out, I've dug with shovels, I've done the rope through the track trick, rope to a sled, ratchet straps. I've used the bunjee by myself, tied to a tree, pulled by hand, and had it hooked up to sleds.

There's no way anyone with extensive snowmobile experience would say that a sno-bunjee doesn't work, because they do. You might not understand why they do, or believe that they do. But they do.

 

I see you're from North Bay. Where exactly were you riding to find all this snow?

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Gooderham Township - East of Marten River. Yeah - not a good snow year. Kirkland Lake is on the horizon for deeper snow and better fishing.

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