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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a set of flex skis with the PCS strips to stop the darting and 5 inch carbides on an 04 500ss trail. Seems to handle nice in the twisties. Last night we got about 3 inches of snow. Went out and went down the railroad grade and the sled was all over. Could only due about 50 MPH. If I punch it, it was ok for a second until the back end started fishtailing. If I kept it at a constant speed it would dart and fishtail. I weigh about 230 LBs, front shocks on 4, center on 4, rear on 3 and uncoupled. I took the center down to 3 and it did nothing to help it. Someone reputable told me that my problem was the skis. They said the precision were meant for this sled and the single runners are too aggressive for the chassis no matter what suspension setting I use. He said put the precisions on and drop the center to one and put the blocks to the coupled setting and it will ride perfect. Any thoughts?
 

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Lakelandsledder said:
I have a set of flex skis with the PCS strips to stop the darting and 5 inch carbides on an 04 500ss trail. Seems to handle nice in the twisties. Last night we got about 3 inches of snow. Went out and went down the railroad grade and the sled was all over. Could only due about 50 MPH. If I punch it, it was ok for a second until the back end started fishtailing. If I kept it at a constant speed it would dart and fishtail. I weigh about 230 LBs, front shocks on 4, center on 4, rear on 3 and uncoupled. I took the center down to 3 and it did nothing to help it. Someone reputable told me that my problem was the skis. They said the precision were meant for this sled and the single runners are too aggressive for the chassis no matter what suspension setting I use. He said put the precisions on and drop the center to one and put the blocks to the coupled setting and it will ride perfect. Any thoughts?
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I had this problem with my g/f's sled. I found an easy fix. The rear shock on the skid has 2 mounting holes on the top side. Remove bolt and put into the other hole. This lets the weight transfer back more. I was amazed the sled takes off straight. This was on my 03'. Im not sure if the 04' hase rwo positions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
440man said:
My buddies 670 did that too...He adjusted the toe out to 1/4'', set track tension and alignment 100% spot on and he was good to go. Also, a good set of aftermarket (USI) skis will cure that problem too...
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I had Project X skis on it with 4.5 inch shaper bars and despite different adsjustments couldn't get the super heavy steering effort out , so I put on the flex skis which solved that problem but seemed to creat another. I have 1/2 inch toe out so I don't think that's the problem either. I've about had it! Never had any of these problems with my ZX chassis!
 

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Also, a good set of aftermarket (USI) skis will cure that problem too...
If you wanna buy new skis that's great but its not the cause of the problem...

your problem is too much ski pressure...

front shocks on 4, center on 4, rear on 3
That is WAY too much ski pressure, no wonder its wandering! I weigh 255+ with gear on and front springs are set to 1.5 with HPGs and 1 or 2 (can't remember) on the adrenaline- lots and lots of folks have WAY too much ski pressure- and they talk about darting and push, and blah, blah blah...

the adjustments are front shock pre-load, center shock pre-load and limiter straps-

no need to buy new equipment...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Viper, are you saying the fronts on 1 or 2, the center on one or two and if I get ski lift shorten the strap one hole?
 

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lake, mine wanders alot also but we haven't had alot of snow to be able to work on setups yet. Viper why does to much ski pressure cause a push ? I would think it would give the skis more bite. I am new to setting up a rev so any info from you guys that have gone through all the setups and know what works is a real help. i have a gade x with flex skis and duelly carbides
 

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I have my front on 2, centre on 3, rear spring on 2,and haven't touch my limiter strap. Precision skis, Bergstrom TP carbides on inside. NO DARTING WHATSOEVER. Bare Ice last weekend, straight as an arrow.

I am about 230 with gear.

I think that TOO MUCH, NOT ENOUGH, and JUST RIGHT ski pressure causes problems in deep snow with the precisions. BUT as far as I can tell, as no one really has mentioned it, (the trail riders that say it pushes in corners), are you still all running the stock carbides. If so, CHANGE THEM.

It won't help you on the powder, but it will make a difference on trails and with darting. DOO puts there cheapest carbides on any new sled.

Just saw another new product at the DOO dealer yesterday. Its a single keel with a carbide on it that bolts to the underside of the precision skis in the centre. Its deeper than the stock carbides on the precisions, and its looks like it would work. You keep all the carbides on, and it looks like this one takes most of the running, but the inside carbide would help with the turning.

they were $140CDN for a pair
 

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I dump my precisions and they come out with a fix
.....With the flex skis and easy steer strips, suspension = 2front, 2 center, strap shortened one hole from stock, 2 on the torsions, 1/4" toe out = 0 darting for my weight 170lbs;......
 

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Lake, the more you crank the the centre spring, the less weight you have on the front. You're probably darting because you don't have enough weight on the front. Drop the centre to 2 and then try it. I have the flex skis with the easy steers, I have my centre at 2 and the front springs at 2. I weigh 160lbs. Handles well.
 

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Lakelandsledder said:
That's the funny thing. Guys with ZX chassis's were doing like 80 MPH and had no darting!
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ZX did not have as much front ski pressure in general, with the rider forward position, you will have more weight on the front of the sled.
 

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Lakelandsledder said:
I have a set of flex skis with the PCS strips to stop the darting and 5 inch carbides on an 04 500ss trail. Seems to handle nice in the twisties. Last night we got about 3 inches of snow. Went out and went down the railroad grade and the sled was all over. Could only due about 50 MPH. If I punch it, it was ok for a second until the back end started fishtailing. If I kept it at a constant speed it would dart and fishtail. I weigh about 230 LBs, front shocks on 4, center on 4, rear on 3 and uncoupled. I took the center down to 3 and it did nothing to help it. Someone reputable told me that my problem was the skis. They said the precision were meant for this sled and the single runners are too aggressive for the chassis no matter what suspension setting I use. He said put the precisions on and drop the center to one and put the blocks to the coupled setting and it will ride perfect. Any thoughts?
[snapback]274912[/snapback]​
Read the book & try other settings (change youre front shocks to 1) problem GONE!!! changeing skis is a waste of $$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I also thought that when someone says loosen the shock setting they mean to adjust it so the spring has less pressure on it (longer spring) and to adjust it harder meant to compress the spring (shorter spring). Is 1/2 inch too much toe out?
 

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ammunta katselija
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Lakelandsledder said:
I also thought that when someone says loosen the shock setting they mean to adjust it so the spring has less pressure on it (longer spring) and to adjust it harder meant to compress the spring (shorter spring). Is 1/2 inch too much toe out?
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Loosen is less spring pressure. On the front shocks the stiffer the spring the more the ski pressure and the more bite (more difficult to steer). Center shock the softer the spring the more pressure on the skis ( more difficult to steer). I think you have too much ski pressure. Adjust one thing at a time I would back off on your front shocks first. The springs are more for steering than ride. The shocks valving has more to do with bump absorption than the springs do. Also the limiter strap is for weight transfer under power. I do not think that is your problem.
 

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Hard to say... if 1/2" is too much or not. Were it me.. I would start with 3/16 and add a little more until the darting tends to go away. I can remember when I was a young pup talking to Brad of Brad's AC (maker of wide front ends). He said.. just keep adding toe out until the darting goes away. Don't measure it as it might scare you. He was pretty much spot on.. although you have to measure it so you know you are starting with some toe out.. also, one is suppose to put a bungy (long one so not too much tension) between the ski tips/loops when you check your toe out. Seems to help. Also, think maybe if you go way too much toe out.. might be 1/2 or little more... 3/4 inch; I think you may pick up some darting from sled hunting as it determines which ski to follow.

And yes, you want less pressure on the front skis... more on the front skid shock to reduce darting. This is a double edged sword as you lose some turning force doing this. I set my sled up like this when drag racing the buds on the lake... no pressure on the skis equals less drag.... almost have to steer by leaning or bouncing off your buds if they got a hole shot. That also tends to make the back off also .. helps to win race....

In most cases on the revs you can't get enough pressure on the front skid shock (shorten).. to reduce the load on the skis. You also have to drop the pressure on the rear springs.. and drop the pressure on the ski springs (lengthen them).

Hard to pick a set up number.. you have to do what works best for you. Everyone is running different springs, carbides and skis.. and weights different which are all factors that effect this issue. You just have to put things in the right direction and get to what works for you.

Hmmm wonder why some of us have lowered their skids in the tunnel of their revs??? By relocating mounting holes in tunnel and brackets.. Maybe to lighten the pressure on the front skis.. because you can do it with the settings on the springs/shocks...???? Something to think about.
 
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