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Sled Deck Build

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35K views 54 replies 18 participants last post by  whirli  
#1 ·
Hey guys, so i have some pictures of the sled deck i just built to go in the back of my '13 durmax 6'6 bed.

I know there are so many questions out there and not a lot of info on building your own. one thing i had to take into account for were my stacks. you cannot see them in the pictures because they actually retract but i still had to notch and frame in around them. they are offset dual side by sides. i have 2 renegades that will be on this deck, both with c&a skis, so the skis do overlap by about an inch but its no big deal.

The deck is 8x8 with a 1 foot beaver tail (helps greatly when loading!!)

The ramp is 10 feet long and combining that with the beaver tail it is 11 feet. It is effortless to load and unload my sleds!

I have 4 eye loops on each leg that get strapped to the tie downs in the bed. I think i am going to fab up a mount that will slide into my b&w gooseneck hitch just for added strength, but as of now its real solid and doesn't move.

I used:

1x2x1/8" steel tubing for the deck and frame rails

1.5x1.5" steel tubing for the legs and ramp

6x1/8 flat stock for sides

Things that will be done by the end of this week:

1. building my new ramp

2. bought led strips that will go along the side outside edge for marker lights, they also change color and strobe for added fun;)

3. decide how i want to make it look a little better: any ideas are welcome!

a. wrap down the side

b. cut a bunch of decals with my die cutter and put them down the side

Note: i am building another ramp this week out of just 1x2 and 1x1 steel tubing because the one i already built is just way overkill and too heavy.

i will post all of my pictures and if anyone has any question feel free to ask!!
 

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#7 ·
A few things i forgot to mention:

I painted the metal with a farm and equipment paint.works real well, i paint trailers with it.

I coated the plywood with behr deckover stuff. the darkest i could find it in.

and the ski guides i got from a few free bedliners i picked up from the local line x guys. cut em up and work flawlessly.

heres a few videos of loading:


 

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#8 ·
Why not aluminum?
A few reasons, 1) price, its about twice as expensive and i will not be using it enough to justify that amount

2) at the end of the day, the weight savings will not be that much because of how much more material you need to use to achieve the same strength.

i have about 400 bucks into this thing
 
#10 ·
What is it like driving with the weight that high up on the bed?
 
#13 ·
Nice deck. I'm building aluminum one with a 12' ramp and retractable sides. I'm about $500 Canadian plus another $50 for lights to get it finished and no rust issues.....
Plans?
 
#14 ·
Does the tailgate open and close with the beaver tail? Does the ramp fit in the bed with the gate closed?

Wish I had the tools to fab stuff like that. First things first....build pole barn.

Nice job...Good lookin unit.
yup, tailgate is fully functional. i built the deck up a few inches so the ramp slides in-between the bottom of the deck and the beaver tail, then and just barely clears the top of the tailgate. it does stick out a little more than i had hoped, but thats because i have the stacks up front and that kills like 16 inches. but oh well...

What is it like driving with the weight that high up on the bed?
honestly, i dont even notice it. it isn't top heavy at all. my truck is leveled so with both sleds up top it squats a tad. I was planning on bagging in for all the trailers i tow anyways so that will fix that problem.

How are you hooking your sleds down?

Looking good!

Noticed the VAST stickers!
thanks! i am going to have a piece of square tubing go across each set of skis with a hook and nut with a lever welded on. then have a eye on the deck that it will hook to and tighten. kinda like how the super clamps work, just not spending 230 bucks.. lol yup! I'm up in albany!
 
#16 ·
Nice deck. I'm building aluminum one with a 12' ramp and retractable sides. I'm about $500 Canadian plus another $50 for lights to get it finished and no rust issues.....
thanks! yea i toyed with the idea just couldn't justify the aluminum cost. and the deck will only be in my truck and I'm moving my sleds somewhere which isn't much given i can literally ride out of my garage onto the trails. just a better option than towing a trailer in the winter. yea i think i have about 400 into it. including lights. how are you getting aluminum so cheap? i just priced out stock for an aluminum ramp and that was 400 bucks! (us)
 
#17 ·
yup, tailgate is fully functional. i built the deck up a few inches so the ramp slides in-between the bottom of the deck and the beaver tail, then and just barely clears the top of the tailgate. it does stick out a little more than i had hoped, but thats because i have the stacks up front and that kills like 16 inches. but oh well...

honestly, i dont even notice it. it isn't top heavy at all. my truck is leveled so with both sleds up top it squats a tad. I was planning on bagging in for all the trailers i tow anyways so that will fix that problem.

thanks! i am going to have a piece of square tubing go across each set of skis with a hook and nut with a lever welded on. then have a eye on the deck that it will hook to and tighten. kinda like how the super clamps work, just not spending 230 bucks.. lol yup! I'm up in albany!
I did the same thing. Cost about &10 each. Next ones are gonna be aluminum.
 
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#18 ·
thanks! yea i toyed with the idea just couldn't justify the aluminum cost. and the deck will only be in my truck and I'm moving my sleds somewhere which isn't much given i can literally ride out of my garage onto the trails. just a better option than towing a trailer in the winter. yea i think i have about 400 into it. including lights. how are you getting aluminum so cheap? i just priced out stock for an aluminum ramp and that was 400 bucks! (us)
I work at a metal wholesaler. I pay cost. ;)
 
#20 ·
Usually pay scrap. $.06 a pound for steel. $.45 a pound for aluminum. My deck isn't scrap price tho. We don't stock any of the sizes o needed. It was $362 plus tax for the deck and ramp aluminum and $90 for plywood. Don't use pressure treated. Use normal and stain it. Pressure treated is too brittle and falls apart.
 
#21 ·
Usually pay scrap. $.06 a pound for steel. $.45 a pound for aluminum. My deck isn't scrap price tho. We don't stock any of the sizes o needed. It was $362 plus tax for the deck and ramp aluminum and $90 for plywood. Don't use pressure treated. Use normal and stain it. Pressure treated is too brittle and falls apart.
my goodness i need start working at a metal place... :eek: i think in steel i have around that but i bought a little extra and they cut it up for me. yea i used regular plywood and coated it with that behr deck over. should hold up real nice and gives really good traction cause its so thick
 
#22 ·
my goodness i need start working at a metal place... :eek: i think in steel i have around that but i bought a little extra and they cut it up for me. yea i used regular plywood and coated it with that behr deck over. should hold up real nice and gives really good traction cause its so thick
Ya, the job it has its perks when you are a welder, that's for sure.....
 
#23 ·
Good on ya' for building your own! A little satisfaction in having done it yourself versus buying something generic. I use my truck for work which is loaded with cross boxes, in-bed "pack-rat" parts slide out, tidy tank and toolbox. I built a single ramp that drops over top and bolts down to it. 10 minutes and its on or off the truck. Either out sledding or working with the truck.

Cheers!