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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

Got a Renegade XRS still in break in mode so hasnt done much riding yet. Had a 2010 Renegade 1200X before this one which I was very happy with the rear suspension after I got it dialed in. Wasnt that hard once I did the right adjustment, so with that in mind I did some testing and used some of the experience from my previous sled on my new sled and I really cant say I feel the rMotion is all that bad a**. It feels a bit soft and bottoms out too fast for my likning. Simply put, it feels a bit linear to me and less progressive than the SC-5. The torsion springs are set to 3rd position and the coupling block(which really transformed the ride on my previous sled) to 4th position and still I dont get that "can hit anything" feeling I had with my 1200X. Since I dont have high and low speed setting on the rear shock anymore, what does the single knob do? Only low speed, only high speed or a mix of both? Does it affect rebound? How many clicks does it take to make a difference?

The sag is about right the way the springs are adjusted so imho the problem are not soft springs. I havent done anything with the limiter strap so Im thinking of adjust it one hole out. Still has more adjustment range on the clickers but how many clicks are acceptable before I should think about sending in the shocks for revalving? Im about 220lb and ride a lot on really bad trails.
 

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wow...with your weight you should not be bottoming out. turn the rear knob up "h" direction, try 2 clicks at a time. this will stiffen the rear shock. Make sure you know the full range of motion on the knob. turn all way clock wise and count clicks, then counterclockwise and count so you know your full parameter of clicks. If you click all the way up to two clicks from hard, and it is still too soft (bottoming out), then move your torsion springs to 4.

the block affects your weight transfer which will increase or decrease ski lift in and out of turns, also gives you more track spin during hole shot. the lower the block #, the more weight transfer.

btw...in your manual which might be under your seat, it will give you a good explanation of how to adjust the shocks.
 

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Setting the coupling blocks to 4 will lessen the rear suspension travel. Limiter strap should be fully loose. Adjuster knobs on all 4 adjust high and low speed. Fronts have rebound adjustment, don't believe your rears do. I'd start with compression knobs on all 4 around 10 clicks from full soft.
 

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Setting the coupling blocks to 4 will lessen the rear suspension travel. Limiter strap should be fully loose. Adjuster knobs on all 4 adjust high and low speed. Fronts have rebound adjustment, don't believe your rears do. I'd start with compression knobs on all 4 around 10 clicks from full soft.
I put all mine at 10 from full soft and coupling blocks on 2 and it was pretty good, darted a bit so lessened the front tops down to 7 from full soft and I was pretty happy. 16' Mxz Xrs. I might turn my springs up a notch, but it was pretty smooth out there so didn't try it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Setting the coupling blocks to 4 will lessen the rear suspension travel. Limiter strap should be fully loose. Adjuster knobs on all 4 adjust high and low speed. Fronts have rebound adjustment, don't believe your rears do. I'd start with compression knobs on all 4 around 10 clicks from full soft.
I dont get it why coupling blocks would lessen travel. Yes it will feel harsh or shorter when doing wheelies over bumps, thats how it tries to force the front down, but when landing flat it should still allow just as much travel? The bump stops will still make contact on full stroke yes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I put all mine at 10 from full soft and coupling blocks on 2 and it was pretty good, darted a bit so lessened the front tops down to 7 from full soft and I was pretty happy. 16' Mxz Xrs. I might turn my springs up a notch, but it was pretty smooth out there so didn't try it yet.
I will try this as a base setting today. For the sled defense, all trails are still soft since its early in the season so fine tuning suspension cant be done so well, but thats why Im focused on not bottoming out so easy. My riding isnt super aggressive but the trails are brutal some of the places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okey so I did some more testing today and the single knob is a high speed adjustment only. Cranked it all the way to max and the sled got super firm when hitting small sharp bumps but it stills bottoms out in small and large g-outs. The shocks needs a firmer low speed valving.
 

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Okey so I did some more testing today and the single knob is a high speed adjustment only. Cranked it all the way to max and the sled got super firm when hitting small sharp bumps but it stills bottoms out in small and large g-outs. The shocks needs a firmer low speed valving.
Which shock is bottoming out? I'm 200# without gear and only have the rear on 1. You sure the center shock isn't the issue? Having the coupling blocks on 4 will have the center spring working sooner in the travel. Put some zip ties around your shock shafts to determine which one is the issue. You can ad separate low/high speed adjuster knobs to the front and rear shock for sure, the center I'm sure you can also, but can't confirm.
 

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If your much over 200 lbs, plus gear. the XRS rear torsion springs are kind of soft. Give Ian at Monster Performance a call at 518-320-5704.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Which shock is bottoming out? I'm 200# without gear and only have the rear on 1. You sure the center shock isn't the issue? Having the coupling blocks on 4 will have the center spring working sooner in the travel. Put some zip ties around your shock shafts to determine which one is the issue. You can ad separate low/high speed adjuster knobs to the front and rear shock for sure, the center I'm sure you can also, but can't confirm.
It is bottoming out typical in the transition before steep jumps and coming down a hill. Landings are not affected so much. For yesterdays riding I did set the coupling block to #2 as sugested but it still bottoms out fairly easy. The torsion springs are set to #3 and the center spring are tighten up maybe 1/4" and the sag is just about right so the springs are not super soft but the could be a bit stiffer. I like to be on #1 or #2 on normal riding like Im doing early in season.

I did a bit of struggling with my previous sled also(1200X) until I figured out the low speed adjustment. I would sure like to have high and low speed adjustment back. Anyone have any experience with the Hygear adjuster upgrade?

I talked to one of the sales persons at my dealer yesterday about revalve the shocks when its going in for service.
 

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Most here will reccommed Ian at monster performance. If you have sag set, and have already turned compression dampning up, I'd give him a call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Its a honest mistake but I have been in contact with Ian at Monster Performance before and he is a super nice guy, really helpful. I've talked to my dealer who have fairly good experience with shock valving. They will give me a good deal on doing all shocks for me, too bad doo changed the piggy backs from dual adjustment to singe. I feel that if the shocks could be adjusted like the older type I would be right in the sweet spot in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did some more testing today on hard packed trails which was fairly bumpy. I cant say Im very impressed with the suspension setup overall compared too my previous Renegade 1200X. My conclusion so far is that the low speed valving is way to soft which leads to too firm high speed adjustment on the clicker to keep it from bottoming out. This cant be the way its supposed to be like, being the top of the line mogul bashing sled from doo, so I gonna talk to my dealer when I bring it in for the break in service and ask them to check it out and maybe see if the gas pressure are set correct.
 

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Shocks are oil filled, not gas. They do have a nitrogen charge, but that's only to keep the oil from foaming. If you're only having trouble with 1 out of 4 shocks, maybe you can get it exchanged? Edit pro 40 shocks are oil filled, not every shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Im well aware of how a gas shocks operate and no, the nitrogen charge doesnt just keep the oil under pressure. Take a look at this guys explanation:

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Talked to the suspension specialist at my dealer today and he want to try change the shock oil and refill it with gas at a higher pressure(300psi) than stock(200psi) because good experience with this. His advice to me was to first just rise the nitrogen pressure and run the shocks a bit longer for the shock to break in a bit more and then change oil and refill it with nitrogen but I dont have the time for this. I wanna ride so the oil will be changed with a better quality oil and higher pressure. Sure hope this will solve my bottoming out problems.
 

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Talked to the suspension specialist at my dealer today and he want to try change the shock oil and refill it with gas at a higher pressure(300psi) than stock(200psi) because good experience with this. His advice to me was to first just rise the nitrogen pressure and run the shocks a bit longer for the shock to break in a bit more and then change oil and refill it with nitrogen but I dont have the time for this. I wanna ride so the oil will be changed with a better quality oil and higher pressure. Sure hope this will solve my bottoming out problems.
Can you get the needle into the resi with the shock still installed and confirm the GAS charge ? I've seen some pro 40s with less then 100lbs from factory. I can't see the stack being that bad

Why not a Lynx with the PPS on your side of the Atlantic ?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, my dealer will confirm the correct gas charge first. If its way of he may just fill it up, we'll see. Why not a Lynx? Well I bleed yellow, been riding doo for almost 30 years and believe the coupled rmotion are better overall than the uncoupled PPS2 but I guess we'll see how it plays out. Lynx have been known for poor off trail performance and more a pure on trail hardcore mogul bashing sled. One of my riding buddies bought a 2016 Xtrim 3500RE, a real sweet sled for sure.
 
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