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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SHOULD I BUY IT??? Just went and looked at 2008 Ski-doo 800R MXZ Renegade. 3150 miles. Electric start. Reverse. New skis, new track -1.5 inch lug, 137 inch long track. It may not be what you want, but it IS what I have been looking for. Seat in great condition, everything cosmetically looks good, no cracks, no dents.

This is a two owner sled. The guy who has it for sale said he bought it about 800 miles ago (about two years ago). In the his first year of ownership, the water pump went out and he had it professionally replaced. He had the receipt and it was $1,100 US dollars to repair it.

Took it out for a 10 min test ride. Pulls hard through the throttle. I never went wide open. Didn't need to. Fast, light, corners well. Felt smooth and was all the power I'll ever need.

Got back to his house and was ready to buy. I pulled the spark plugs and noticed that the right plug was more tan then the left plug (clutch side). Both plugs looked dirty, but the clutch side plug was darker and more "dirty". Then the compression test. After 7 pulls each side, the clutch side had at reading of 105 psi and the right side had a reading of 95 psi. I checked it again (both sides) and got the same readings.

Doesn't this seem low? And of course the compression numbers don't match. What does this mean?

If it means a "top end" I don't have the skills to do that myself. What does that cost? I think I can buy it for around $3000.

WHAT SHOULD I DOO??!!??
 

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That's probably sarcasm.
2016 1200 Renegade X
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Low numbers could be the tester, but the uneven numbers are an issue. Rings at a minimum, but if you go that far, might as well do the pistons. If you have a decent set of tools, it's not that difficult to do.

When I got my first sled 7ish years ago, I lost a piston. I was ready to part it out as the shop wanted more to fix it than I paid for it. With the guidance of the members on this forum, I rebuilt it for about $400.

I've now done 3 top end rebuilds and replaced a crank.

Sent from the Island of Misfit Toys.
 

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I think you answered your own question. It needs engine work and you can’t do it yourself. Probably not such a good deal. Likely would pay a shop the better part of $1000 for pistons, rings and gaskets installed. That number will go way up if the cylinder needs repair or things like carb boots. 2008 wasn’t a great year for the XP chassis from a reliability standpoint.
 

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new track @ 3150. I question that mileage especially with those compression readings. can't remember the numbers, but owned 3 of those motors, with very little loss of compression in 5000 miles. Like others have said, walk away. Good Luck !
 

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From what you have described I would walk away. If that's the sled that you want then wait and find one that that has better compression.

How did the reed boots look? If it needs boots and a top end you'd be further ahead to put that money towards a bit newer sled that has a better history.
 

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Walk away. When shopping for an old sled especially in a time when they are priced high, you may consider one with a blown engine and invest in a $1800 oem rebuild which has a new coolant pump and requires no major work. It is nearing a little late in the season for many to get into this kind of work, but I am not suggesting it for your case, just throwing it out there as a possibility. For an 800R, used is a gamble, properly rebuilt is a really good engine.
 

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Unless it's cheap, walk. Dirty looking spark plugs is usually one of those motors staring to eat itself for dinner. Compression unequal only farther pushes that thought process
 

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Walk. Have you considered a 500ss? I know it’s not the power you want but you will be riding instead of wrenching. Guy I ride with had that same year sled and motor and blew it up twice before he got rid of it, under 5000 miles. If you really want the 800 maybe look for an 800 etec or at least a different one.
 

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Be careful with the 500ss/600 as many are high mileage or high number of storage seasons, so it is a hit and miss with those too.
 

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Was that a cold compression test or hot? Either way they should both be equal. If you have access to a bore scope and take the pipe off. Look up the Y pipe at the piston/ rings and inspect for scoring.
 

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Those sleds are known to have a lot of motor issues. I wouldn't buy one but that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Seller just sent me a picture of a receipt. He had the water pump professionally replaced about 500 miles ago. At that time, the shop had a compression tested at 130 mag side and 135 pto side. Aren't these numbers supposed to match? Wouldn't the shop have said something to the seller at that time? I never checked reverse when I gave it a test ride. If I have time this afternoon, I may go back and look at it again.
 

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Seller just sent me a picture of a receipt. He had the water pump professionally replaced about 500 miles ago. At that time, the shop had a compression tested at 130 mag side and 135 pto side. Aren't these numbers supposed to match? Wouldn't the shop have said something to the seller at that time? I never checked reverse when I gave it a test ride. If I have time this afternoon, I may go back and look at it again.
The numbers should be as close to each other as possible, 10 psi is pretty big difference. If compression now is really 105 and 95 it wouldn't idle good or run good. I would get another tester and try again. You obviously want the sled so comes down to what you want to pay, but I agree with everyone else and would walk away from that sled,
 

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The fact that water pump went likely means it is going to require at least a top end with those low compression numbers. On top of that, if crank is out of spec, which many of these sleds have issues with, then it may require a bottom end as well.

I can speak from experience with my 2009 800R - that is exactly how things went down last season for me and it won't be cheap.
 
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