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Installed Gripstuds GST-1610 screw in studs in my Storm 150 2 ply last year. 3000 miles so far not one missing.
This is the exact route I'm thinking about going. I want the 2ply track and dont want to deal with regular studs. Why the ice storm 150 is a 1 ply is beyond me!
 

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Igrip studs are the best trail studs period...never going back to push through studs..never drilling a hole through a track again...no more worn boggie wheels...1/20th less weight than push through studs....less rotating mass...I put over 7000 miles on my last set of igrip studs and they still looked great...

What size stud and track?
 

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I wonder what they use in the factory ice tracks? I am thinking of using the igrips in a ripsaw. I also have an ice ripper on a 850 and really like that track and have had no problems with it.

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what Igrip stud? I have a 1.25 " ripsaw I want to do same. Not sure between st24r or ss28r
 

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2017 TNT850 with Storm150. Installed Icemaster screw in studs and was very pleased for the first 2000 miles. This spring I noticed a dent in the back of the tunnel from the bottom up, and knew right away what causes that. Checked track and found 16 of the towers on the ends of the paddles were gone. Three of them hit the top of the tunnel, one in the center causing the previously mentioned dent, the other two hit the heat exchanger area,denting it but not puncturing it. So now I am wondering if I will have a cooling problem due to restricted flow in that area. Removed the rest of the studs, am debating replacing the track. Why did it happen? We have a lot of rail trails which I ride fast(sustained 90+mph) and am guessing that's what caused it. Am not going after Camso . My experience, take it as you like.
 

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what Igrip stud? I have a 1.25 " ripsaw I want to do same. Not sure between st24r or ss28r
I just purchased 250 pcs. of st24R for my 1.25 ripsaw since my enduro won't be coming with the ice ripper due to track shortages.
I feel the IGRIPS will look and perform like the factory ice ripper. I looked at the icemasters in the above post and would'nt feel comfortable with that much meat sticking out of my track.
Follow the directions and predrill a 1/16 hole 3/4 inch into the lug to keep the screw (Igrip) going in straight. Lots of good reviews on the IGRIPS. JMO as time will tell.
 

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P.S. I currently have an ice ripper on my 1200 with 13,000 miles and the studs all still look great and sharp.
 

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I belive the SS28R are recommended for 1.5" and over.


I checked directly with Melanie @ IGrip and BTW she is very helpful.I was told either size would work.The SS28R being more aggressive.She explained pattern differences along with pics to show them.Big help!I did the SS28R with a 5-4-4 pattern on my 137" track.208 studs so you have to buy the 250 count package.. Just go slow and drill pilot hole straight..I went 3/4" deep. 1/16 bit used to be drill bit size but they recommend now 3/32" for The SS28R.I used the 1/16" and took my time.just be tighter Id say but hey,only 1/32 difference so to me be a matter of preference. Out of 208 studs,I had only 1 go in at barely a slight angle but I left it in rather than remove .I just dabbed tips with dawn liquid before installing.My slow speed Ryobi screw tool,not a drill ,worked perfect.But I set each screw depth by hand with tool supplied with Igrips.Quite honestly,JMPO,putting these in and feeling the bite with each
screw I'm not at all worried about throwing a stud.Of course I was at 1st,but not now.Wont know till snow flies I guess.Let er Rip!
 

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I checked directly with Melanie @ IGrip and BTW she is very helpful.I was told either size would work.The SS28R being more aggressive.She explained pattern differences along with pics to show them.Big help!I did the SS28R with a 5-4-4 pattern on my 137" track.208 studs so you have to buy the 250 count package.. Just go slow and drill pilot hole straight..I went 3/4" deep. 1/16 bit used to be drill bit size but they recommend now 3/32" for The SS28R.I used the 1/16" and took my time.just be tighter Id say but hey,only 1/32 difference so to me be a matter of preference. Out of 208 studs,I had only 1 go in at barely a slight angle but I left it in rather than remove .I just dabbed tips with dawn liquid before installing.My slow speed Ryobi screw tool,not a drill ,worked perfect.But I set each screw depth by hand with tool supplied with Igrips.Quite honestly,JMPO,putting these in and feeling the bite with each
screw I'm not at all worried about throwing a stud.Of course I was at 1st,but not now.Wont know till snow flies I guess.Let er Rip!
Just to add,with my Ryobi,I screwed in till flat screw head touched the rubber.Then setting depth by hand was easy .Their socket has 2 nubs for depth .And to boot,1 nub broke off after maybe 25 studs or so and I finished with 1 stub.Melanie is sending me a better replacement tool.Great customer service
 

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Apparently you can use ST24Rs with single ply Ripsaw I or II tracks. According to Melanie 4 per row (toward the outside, not in the middle) will result in just under 200 for a 137 track. The SS28R goes in the same depth, but is slightly higher which puts it more at risk for bending or being pushed over, so needs to go in a thicker lug. I would have thought that means the Rip II, but I believe Melanie said it was OK for the Rip I but not the II. I just went with the 24s since I am uncertain what track will be on my 2022 Enduro. She also cautioned against letting the screws stick out too far and said they should be flush with the screw top so only the 5mm carbide sticks out. There is info on the patterns to use on facebook: Log into Facebook
 

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2021 SkiDoo MXZ XRS 850 2022 Polaris Indy 550
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My gut quick answer is "NOPE" to screw in studs. For slow moving tires or tracks great but for high speed stuff I would stay away from them.

I have no experience with them and I have not heard anything positive or negative about them.
I am going to take a guess a tire can have a faster rotation speed in relation to a track on a snowmobile, along with a much higher centrifugal forces and prolonged usage. 1 rpm on the final drive (after all gearing of course) rotates the wheel 1 time, were as 1 rotation of the final drive on sled only turns track a fraction of its track length! Anyhow, just a guess, as I truly don't know...but I did just stud my girls Indy 550 Shockwave track with igrips st-20's. No experience yet, but I didn't want the weight of real studs bogging that little engine down any further and wanted some safety for her...plus if it chucks any, not to worried about much damage along with not much to damage in that tunnel because of no cooling fluid circulating in there, and I wont be behind her to receive one either! :)
 

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U haven't heard anything positive or negative about them but still have advice? Lol
Here's my experience, 2200 miles and not one worn nor bent/broken screw. Granted the studs protrude over them so they are never in contact with pavement when road crossing etc..
120 screws with 114 1.62 Studboy and this track hooks, my favorite setup yet.
The 120 screws are equal in weight to 9 studs. So I have 230+ pieces of metal hooking on the hard stuff. Everyone doubted me, but I will do it again and again
83c4f059c8015b34a27c9120a84468e0.jpg


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That looks bad ass!
 

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U haven't heard anything positive or negative about them but still have advice? Lol
Here's my experience, 2200 miles and not one worn nor bent/broken screw. Granted the studs protrude over them so they are never in contact with pavement when road crossing etc..
120 screws with 114 1.62 Studboy and this track hooks, my favorite setup yet.
The 120 screws are equal in weight to 9 studs. So I have 230+ pieces of metal hooking on the hard stuff. Everyone doubted me, but I will do it again and again
83c4f059c8015b34a27c9120a84468e0.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Those standard studs are the ones doing the heavy lifting and the screw in studs are doing almost nothing. This is based on my experience with the Ice ripper track on 2 of my sleds. Once you install 96 studs the hookup difference is amazing compared to just the molded in place studs. I will hold firm that the Ice Ripper works great on 20 mph or less speeds and fails on anything above it.

I would guess that the screw in studs are about as effective as the Ice ripper studs but I don't know for certain. I am not aware of any head to head testing.

Either way it looks good and I am glad to hear it works for you.
 

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I am going to take a guess a tire can have a faster rotation speed in relation to a track on a snowmobile, along with a much higher centrifugal forces and prolonged usage. 1 rpm on the final drive (after all gearing of course) rotates the wheel 1 time, were as 1 rotation of the final drive on sled only turns track a fraction of its track length! Anyhow, just a guess, as I truly don't know...but I did just stud my girls Indy 550 Shockwave track with igrips st-20's. No experience yet, but I didn't want the weight of real studs bogging that little engine down any further and wanted some safety for her...plus if it chucks any, not to worried about much damage along with not much to damage in that tunnel because of no cooling fluid circulating in there, and I wont be behind her to receive one either! :)
I was referring to slow moving tires on lawn tractors for example. Not high speed road tires.
 
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